Faceframed cabinet with pilaster feet: how to best do in Chief?

[GeneDavis]

There is a topic here with the thread title Shaped Hole Symbol started by a new member @Jon-Mullwoods, and this question relates not to that exactly, but to how best to do what I am calling pilaster feet in a faceframed base cabinet.

 

I snipped a pic from a page in Jon's biz Mullwoods website to show what I am referring to.  See all the cabs that have their faceframe stiles extending to the floor?  I guess the designer wants a bespoke look, sort of like each cab is built like a piece of furniture with legs.  Here is the pic.

 

 

I think what is going on here to get that legged furniture look (cabinet makers call that a "furniture toe") is that every other cab in a run is given the treatment.  But that is just details.  This question is about how it might be done in Chief to a single base cabinet.

 

See the pic here in which I used solids in Sketchup to depict a faceframed base with the desired feature.  Note the faceframe with 1.5" stiles has them extended to the floor, and what I am calling leg boost blocks (shown in red) make the stiles look more like 1.5" legs and fill the space between the stiles and the setback toekick.  Maybe Jon can enter the thread here and tell us how it is done in the shop and field so we can better understand this detail

 

 

Is there a way in Chief cabinets to do this?  Legs plus boosts plus recessed toekick but no sidecut for toe?  I know I can do anything I want with solids, but was wondering if you Chief cabs gurus, the guys that can make a dinner service using cabinets, have a way.

[MarkMc]

I had a client that did several varieties like this. Most often they had me use separate pilasters since they liked how that worked for installation. Some were inset, some were frameless cabinets. Here are some alternates. You can also use a custom door for the pilaster after adjusting the symbol specs.

 

[MarkMc]

There's also something I used to do often before changes to cabinets were made (still have to use it for side extended back) Insert a door symbol into the back of the cabinet. Both these cabinets are configured the same. Only the X offset of the symbol is different. Which method depends on what other information you want to generate from the plan and how hard you want to work getting it.

[GeneDavis]

What is needed is not solved with pilasters.  Go back and see the cabinet I show in 3D in my opening post, above.

 

Look closely at the right end base cabinet in the group shown in the photo, attached.  The inset-door faceframe has its stiles extended to go to the floor, and there may or may not be a block behind as I imagined in my Sketchup workup, to give the flush integral stile pilaster (my name for this) a columnar appearance at the foot.

[MarkMc]

1 hour ago, GeneDavis said:

Go back and see

look at the cabinets on the left in the picture and READ what it says about blocking. Sorry but I must have unblocked the cabinet on the left when taking the picture. Blocking does what you want easily. 

To get rid of the artifact of the toe on the right set that side to none.

[GeneDavis]

I am sorry I am so dense but I have no idea what you did or are saying.  All I want to do is extend faceframe stiles to the floor.  There are no settings I see that accomplish this, and no instructional videos (I learn from videos or from someone giving good step by step instructions) on the Chief site or on YouTube to show how to do this.

[MarkMc]

Just this time.

1. Place a cabinet in plan so it is NOT next to another cabinet,
2. open it,
3. set toe kick to closed toe-always present.
4. Close the DBX
5. Hold the shift key down, select the cabinet,
6. now in the bottom toolbar select make architectural block, done. The extension will not go away when placed next to another cabinet.
7. IF you want only one side to extend, AND need to move it around for some reason
8. then place the cabinet next to another cabinet
9. do the above.
10. If you don't like the little artifact of the cabinet side that shows in up in the toe area on the side that does not extend down,
11. set that side of the cabinet to NONE.
12. If having no side bothers you there is a work around placing a symbol for the side in the back (I'm not going to go into the how to for that.)

 

The shift to make a block trick has been on the forum in the past. No idea who posted it but that is how I learned about it. When I saw it I tried it so I would remember. No idea if it was for this particular use or something else but thanks to whoever posted it.

 

I don't do videos except occasionally for clients that I have agreed to do training for. 

I post things that are meant to be tried out- take a trip down the rabbit hole.

If someone does try and then runs into trouble then asks a specific question I answer it. Maybe think about taking a risk at learning by trying. Often you find out interesting things you did not know when stuff does not work.

Given a choice between- I can be right (it should just do this) or I can get what I want ( go down the rabbit hole and find a way around it) I prefer the latter.

[DBCooper]

@GeneDavis See if this works better for you:

 

Your "pilaster" is just a base cabinet that is 1 1/2" wide with no toe kick.  Your pilaster can also be deeper or shallower than your cabinets if you like.

 

You can remove either the left side or right side of a cabinet by setting the side to "none" on the "front/sides/back" tab.  You can then set the left or right stile width to 0" on the front face.  This will give you a cabinet with no side.

 

In the picture below, the cabinet on the left is using closed toe kicks, which is why there is a space between the stile and the toe kick.  The cabinet in the middle has the sides removed and I have placed 1 1/2" cabinet pilasters next to it.  The one on the right is the cabinet with the pilasters pushed together.

 

 

[Jon-Mullwoods]

On 11/12/2024 at 11:57 AM, GeneDavis said:

Maybe Jon can enter the thread here and tell us how it is done in the shop and field so we can better understand this detail

 

 

I can confirm that the way you have this drawn is the way we would typically build this style of cabinet. The only difference is that we miterlock our finished ends instead of butt joining them, but that's not really an important point for what you're asking.

 

As far as how to best do that in Chief, I will defer to the advice of @MarkMc and @DBCooperas I am very new to this program.