VHampton

Welcome Jim. ...you may note (in asking general questions) that it's helpful to have a signature w/ the hardware specs. Lots of times folks will say that they have such and such going on, and many here will go above and beyond to get to the bottom of the issue. This often happens quite a bit with renderings for example. You could liken it to someone saying that they can't cut down a certain sized tree when it's not known if they're swinging an axe, or have a Magnum Stihl chainsaw at their disposal. So all this to say, welcome - and at some point, don't be surprised if you get asked for the hardware info. All the best - and have a great journey with Chief. It's the absolute best drawing software in the industry.

From having browsed the forums since X-14 was released, there is excellent information available on how to gain some speed. Just a few things to add... On any given perspective camera (saved in layout) - make sure it's set to update manually - never automatically. Any busy patterns... things like sand, stucco, concrete, and intricate stone patterns... they are known to slow down 2D generation in layout. If there are any large 3D objects in the plan - try to switch them out for smaller ones - meaning with lower surface counts. Even with massive memory on your new computer... set the default undo/redo to about 2 at the most. And as posted in this thread... any framing which is set to be automatically updated can bog things down. Eliminate that option too. While CA keeps making vast improvements, all of the above features work quite well for a modest home. ...meaning that the software should operate with relative ease when the program isn't pulling a heavy load so to speak. Any large projects or plan files however, will certainly benefit from making these minor adjustments. ...looking forward to more user comments.

3D solid as "patio.... The benefit to this method (albeit unconventional) is that you can create a hefty stone edge, and get the stone to project past the newels. Concrete foundation walls were created for the masonry slab support.

There is no need for a "deck" definition. The attached was done with the deck as a "balcony". Just make certain that the stairs are twins (of each other) - meaning the exact same specs. Get them to touch ever so slightly (at the corner of the 'deck') and presto - they will join and miter. Raised slabs... you could always make a poly line - convert it to whatever the stone patio material is - and elevate the height. There are many ways. I prefer the poly line solid method personally. Untitled 1.plan

Thanks for noting Mick. Usually I start w/ the textures. ...When I went back to show John what was meant by "calibrating" the spacing, the screen capture showed the patterns being offset, not the textures. Doh. Either way, it's quite a handy feature. -meaning that when the sync box is checked, both will rendered and 2D views will align (texture and pattern)

You're quite welcome John. Again, all of the suggestions (mine) are a bit unconventional, as Chief can auto-build just about everything. Unless the house is more straight forward (meaning traditional) sometimes a manual override helps achieve the result, even if coloring outside of the lines is often referred to as a "hack" by some users. @solver (Eric) is an expert at explaining how to get things spot on. I greatly enjoy viewing his posts even after 20 plus years of using this program. He provides excellent information on how everything gets perfectly auto-generated simply by using the correct inputs, To answer your question, again some minor adjusting is required. The wall appears too high, and the roof may want to move outwards another 1/2" to 1". It's a relatively easy fix, but requires a bit of fitness and patience. Regarding the texture having various spacing... the "repeat" is technical term for the distance (on center) of the material file. By way of example, the wall texture on the rendered views has several vertical surfaces with misalignments. This is common in instances when the roof and sidewalls want to match up as per your project. Changing the horizontal space (by using a varying material type) allows the wall spacing to align with the roof. (see attached). That's what I meant by 'calibrating'. Interestingly, as you are probably aware, Twin Motion offers that handy offset tool where you can toggle the spacing to get it just right. In CA however, the way it can be done (unless someone has a better idea) is to simply take a 3d view. With the 'rainbow tool" click on the wall, and copy the material pattern. Now you've got a new surface which can be "toggled" by spacing the horizontal offset a little bit differently each time. (see the attached). 2D line drawing views don't appear to experience this issue. It's primarily an occurrence in "rendered" views". Glad to be of help.

It's definitely achievable. The trick is in manually lifting the walls to meet the roof edge. The gable ends require manual adjustment too. One thing which is required is the creation of various wall types once everything gets merged together. The "repeat' of the siding will not always align with the roof. Making a series of walls will allow you to set different offsets (for the texture and pattern) which will force the "repeat" to align with seams on the roof. Attached is an X-13 plan file. You can always open it with a trial version to see what's going on. I played around with the textures only... The pattern files still would need their respective settings for 2D line drawing views. All the best. SamplePlan2_MHD.plan

Thanks for making that clarification Mark. I should have placed that in the response. A molding poly-line is entirely different species of molding than a room generated molding. On exterior frieze boards (with a square cut rafter), the roof slope option is a really great tool. One would have to make a manual molding to get the same rotation result on the interiors. BTW... that's a pretty neat method.

Open the dialogue box for the molding, and look for the rotate option. The crown can be set to follow the roof pitch.

Greetings John. The file can't be opened by X-12 since it was made w/ the latest version. But that said, there is good information in this thread. Per the initial direction, the minimalist roof was made with a 1" thick roof surface. Fascias and Rakes were set to 0" - even though the program will default to 1/16th of an inch when you do that. (Overhangs were adjusted manually, and so were the walls). As per Robert's reply, a bit of "dragging" will result in the desired the effect. Lastly, a minimalist roof won't generate a gutter, but as kB has noted, the molding tool serves this purpose quite nicely. All the best.

Lol. So true. Modern houses are waterproofed to such a degree where they may as well be wearing a wetsuit. The products that they use under the rain screen is pretty incredible - yet VERY expensive.

For the rain screen siding and roof merge: Build a (1)" thick "roof" skin with no structure other than the framing and roof sheathing. Meaning no fascias, sub fascias, friezes, or ridge caps. Set the overhang so that it lines up with the siding. This can be adjusted in case your roof is poking out. With a bit of finesse, the exterior siding can be merged perfectly with the roof. (like in references images below). There may be a slight chance that you'll have to 'drag' the walls up - manually. Likewise the same with the roof overhang. It can be pulled in tighter to ensure the correct "look". This goes against the 'auto-build' nature of the program, but custom houses will often require a bit of manual adjusting. Chief has no limits in expressing the design intent.

Making piers (with varying walls thicknesses) is pretty handy indeed. I've never read any of the CA manuals, so creative solutions are invariably a by-product of necessity. BTW... kBird is correct. This method results in the four sided pier becoming a small "room'. 'No definition' on any one of the walls solves any foreseeable issues. The pier will still build at the default foundation height. ...and agreed Doug... PC 'piers' and 'buttresses' are the masonry terminology for sure. Pilasters are primarily millwork related, but we all got the gist of what the OP was looking for. '') Thanks all for the positive feedback.

The pier can be made with thinner poured concrete walls. As a result, the footings will join together. Cover the gap (inside the pier) with a CAD poly-line or CAD box. Don't use a line property on the CAD object in order to create the camouflage.

Hi Gene... I would venture to say that the answer is yes. When the initial fascia line is drawn in 2D elevation view (and curved to your liking) ...both the roof and the soffit will curve (when converted to a 3d molding) - just as per the real world images. The rafters tails on the underside of the roof "hump" can be made with 3d solids, and placed manually. My observation is this... There will be (3) moldings required. (1) for the initial fascia (1) for the roof skin - a replica of the fascia - set one inch higher (1) for the soffit - another replica of the fascia - set one inch lower and probably one inch inward The 3d solid rafters can be manipulated to follow the radius of the curve. Note: Radial moldings required some finesse so that they're a bit more fluid in appearance. The optimal way to make that curve look spot on, will be to make sure that the initial fascia has many facets - otherwise it'll look sloppy and choppy like in my quick example. Hope this is a help.

That's a really creative solution. Probably the best yet. ...another option could be to build the roof. Then draw a molding poly-line in cross section with a slightly lower pitch - basically to create a rafter "molding". Then - in 2d view - a head on elevation allows one to draw the fascia (in the soft arch). This gets converted to the "rafter molding" which will have shingles. It'll create the slight hump on the actual roof surface. A 2d molding needs to be created (and lowered by 1") so that it will serve as the fascia. It has potential to appear as the eyebrow effect per the image. Not too time consumptive at all.

You're quite welcome. The Simpson site has wide variety of clips which meet the codes, but that one is pretty standard for high wind zones. A quick search will show pretty much all of the options. "seismic ties" or "hurricanes strapping" yields helpful results.

TJI's typically require a squash block in order for the ties to be able to fasten. The clip in the screen capture is fairly common even though the rafter is shown on the lower plate. (Same thing happens on the upper). ...and you're welcome Gene. It's always good practice to leave nothing to chance when it comes to water infiltration. But from the aesthetic standpoint, usually exposed flashing always comes up in conversation at a later date, ...and since drip edge typically comes only white or brown aluminum, (or lead coated copper) there's always the chance for hemming and hawing in case they have to paint it to match the fascia. I could be wrong, but that type of roof flashing usually has a special riglet so that the top course of shingles gets tucked into a small notch.

Agreed. That's a nice way to cover a large structural member w/ a layer cake of fascia. For good measure, it's always helpful to call out flashing, even if it's just a simple drip edge. That type of roof condition is prone to allow for capillary action below the top course of shingles. Even if the builder may have an excellent roofer, simple stuff like making a general note will make sure that you're covered for any unwanted dribbles.

The 3d warehouse has some good boulders. (see attached) Otherwise you could fake that by using poly-line solid tools for the wall, and adding that very same boulder image as the assigned texture.

Exporting a layout sheet is going to skew the scale. You will also lose every single jpeg. Unfortunately, they don't convert to CAD format. Regarding the most important thing (exporting your information) there is a solution - irrespective of whatever version. What could (should) work is to make a CAD detail of the layout page. Then create a block of the postage sized drawing. Resize the block as necessary and export. I can't tell what'll happen on 24 x 24 sized sheets... but on 24 x 36, the resize factor is 48. Just to be sure, when you export the enlarged layout drawing, do a quick test. Reimport the block and check the dimensions. they should be in line w/ the desired scale. Per the example below (on a 24 x 36 sized layout page) all exporting was done in inches, and the import likewise is done in inches. 48 is the resize factor. Hope it helps.

Mr. Rabbit is a genius.

That would be pretty neat Lew. ...maybe one day soon. The software engineers read the forums, even if there is a suggestion box. Just like cabinets can be added onto with moldings and custom tops, they could do the same with chimneys. Even porch columns. Adding courses (for a build-out) is always something which has to be done with solids. I have found creative work-arounds though... and the soffit tool can be shaped tall and skinny (like a chimney) w/ moldings on top ...Same for columns (if they're square). A custom cap and base can be added.

Great video Adam. Like DJP explained, usually solids are a good tool- when the shape is simple. The OP's chimney is flat on 2 sides which means that the taper doesn't have to occur on all sides, but the way your video explains how to create a "battered" chimney is superb. Nice work. For simple shapes... and for the OP (in learning how to work w/ solids)... just as Mr. Potter explained... Draw a rectangle in 2D view, and use the break tools to angle the (2) upper sides. Convert the shape into a poly-line solid. or "3d solid" as they're now called in X-14. The chimney appears to be at least 40 - 42 inches thick. You can "break" the upper section (to have the side walls) even after the solid is created. A chimney cap can be made using solids as well.

That's exactly the way I've made these in the past Eric. Glass walls and glass roof planes. ...It appears that you may have used default framing. Again, depending on the design intent, poly line solids can help customize the look.