Larry_Sweeney

The quick answer is YES. Scott has some great videos "somewhere" on doing this. I think it is on ChiefTutor.com if I remember correctly. I think in the videos he goes over how you can get different materials or colors on each side.

Try making your clipping distance farther away. I find that sometimes I have to go quite a distance. I'm not sure what goes on if you make the distance to far, but just play with the numbers and see if that is the problem.

Barry..............Click on railing wall that you want no post at wall and open the Railing Specifications . Go to "Rail Style" under Newels/Post and check "NO Half Post at wall dbx. (attachment)

Lew........Yes I use mine a lot in both B&W and color. I also do quite a few pictures. Other than the cost of the ink I have no complaints (knock on wood). I have been giving some thought to upgrading to a printer/plotter that can do 24x36 prints.  I haven't been very serious yet in that department-----maybe by the end of the year. Color prints "kill me" (well my wallet that is) at the print shop.

I use a HP 9800, It will print up to 13x19. I've had it for 4 or 5 yrs. now and it never gave me a problem. The only thing I hate about it (and this is probably true for most printers) is the cost of the ink cartridges.

Scott............Thanks for doing the video. It's as close to perfection as you can get in X6. I really think it should work without doing what I call "farting around" or in CA terms--a work around. My personality makes me cringe when I can't make it perfect----sorry. I think I'll "squeak" a little and send the problem into support along with a link to this thread and your Youtube video. It'll be interesting to see what they say. Have a great day!

Scott.................Looks great. I'll be the first to watch the video and study it very carefully. I tried doing what you said (I think) and got different results. I even made both shafts material "opening (no material) at the same time. Thank you for your time and effort. It's much appreciated.

Conclusion........................1. First attachment shows a room with a ceiling. Skylight looks fine (or as good as CA can do it).

                                          2. Second attachment shows a room without a ceiling and then a level ceiling plane "drawn in" at the same level as the room with a ceiling in the first attachment. Big difference in the way they look. In the second attachment the shaft doesn't attach to the ceiling correctly or look anything like the shaft in the first attachment. To me this is wrong and I consider it a "BUG". Has anyone else taken the time to see if they come up with the same results. If so, I'll send it in to support.

Scott.........I tried the "down and dirty" solution you suggested and other problems showed up. I made the ceiling plane framing 1/16" and I get the projections shown on the first attachment with the question mark. In the second attachment I changed the ceiling plane framing to 3" and the projections changed to something shorter. I have the bottom chord of the scissor trusses set for 5 1/2". When I change the ceiling plane framing to 5 1/2" the projections go away. With this in mind I know where (or sort of) the projection are coming from, but I don't know why. I also don't understand why the skylight shaft and the ceiling doesn't come together at "A" in the first attachment. I'm hoping this is a bug with using a scissor truss and skylights. It would make me feel better. I just can't understand what I'm doing wrong. I'll have to open a new plan, make a small building with a ceiling pitch different from the roof pitch and see what happen when a skylight is installed. Have you tried that to see if you get the results I'm getting? If I still get the same result I'll have to send it in to support.

Doug............This complaint has been going on for years. As far as I know the only way to get around this is to do them manually. It's not that difficult---just a PITA! Once you have one returm made you can copy it for the othe returns. Put it in the "Suggestions". I keep being told that "the squeaky wheel gets greased". The problem is I think this suggestion has been "greased" so often that it has slid of the desk.

Scott................Not getting anywhere. I guess it's time to zip. the plan. It's one of those "PROJECTS" I was just doing as a favor for a friend and I end up losing hair over it. Oh well, what are friends for.   Thanks for your time and knowledge-----always appreciated.

Quaker Const. Addition.zip

Scott.............I did try manually moving the hole, but I would still get the same offsets in the shaft opening at the top and bottom of of the skylight as shown in the new attachments.Do I need to post this simple plan? I'm drawing a blank. It has to be something I don't have setup correctly, but my brain must be lost in the "semi-retirement world"

I want to put skylights in a roof where I'm using scissor trusses with a 5/12 pitch for the roof and a 3/12 pitch for the ceiling below. When I install the skylight the ceiling hole does not line up with the shaft. I show this at points "A" and "B" in the first two attachments. I tried deleteing the hole in the ceiling and then make my own hole in the ceiling, but I got the message shown in the third attachment. Am I having this problem because of the two different pitches or am I doing something wrong somewhere else? I'm not attaching the plan at this time because I'm thinking this is a very simple plan using scissor trusses. If no one can come up with the solution I will zip the plan later.

It's gable at both ends and I'm not able to add a raised heel due to other factors. I had gone over all this with the truss manufacturer and they said the 2.75 pitch was workable for the span I noted.

I was thinking the 2" difference was something I would work with for starters also. I had a call into a truss company from last week and they just got back to me while I was writing this reply. I was told that with a 4.5 pitch on the exterior and a 33' span I could do a max. of 2.75 pitch on the interior using 2x6 chords @ 24" centers. Thanks for everyone's advice. They also told me the 2" "rule of thumb" is a good thing to use.

Truthfully I don't use trusses very often (stick built "old timer") and just thought I could find a quick answer from someone on the forum. I have a customer that wants me to design a pavilion that will have a 4.5/12 roof pitch with a 33' span. The customer wants a cathedral ceiling. I thought it would be much less expensive to use a scissor truss  with a less pitch on the interior. Is there a "rule of thumb" as to how much less of a pitch has to be on the ceiling as compared to the actual roof pitch? I wasn't sure if it would depend on the span or a "rule of thumb" and yes, I do know someone is going to tell me to call an engineer or the truss company. Thanks in advance for your input.

Jay......No. The Time Tracker is not shown in the "Tools" drop down list.

mcrump.............If you don't mind me asking. How is the large roof with the cathedral ceiling going to be constructed? That's a long span with a lot of width for a cathedral ceiling. The cathedral ceiling looks like it goes all the way to the ridge with no collar ties of any kind. I did not download it, so I'm just observing from the pictures.

 

 

But of course,  once you have the same number of layers,  what controls which layer overlaps the other?  It is the THROUGH WALL AT START.

 

 

Yes, this is more correct, I think. Though if each wall has the same amount of layers pass the main layer you shouldn't have to use the "THROUGH WALL AT START". I guess it just depends on how different the wall types are and how you want the look at the corner. "THROUGH WALL AT START/or END" gives you that option.

Scott....What you're saying is the same thing I said isn't it? You need to have the same number of wall layers beyond the main layer on the exterior side.

I've had this happen to me a couple of time lately. One time I was trying to move a door. The other time I think it was a window, so it's showing as a problem in a number of places.  I found by closing CA and then reopening it corrected the problem. I work from my home office so there are times I have CA open on the computer for days at a time. This probably doesn't help the problem and I just figured that was the main root of the problem when it would correct once I closed CA down and then reopened it. Maybe I was just lucky.    

I "think" what David means when he says "Walls connect by way of the wall's "Main Layer" so if your main layer radio button position is incorrectly set" is that on the walls you are trying to connect you need the same amount to layers beyond the Main Layer to get the "proper" look/connection in plan and render views. If I'm wrong David, please chime in and correct me.

Ray..........I just read your post so I'm not sure if you are still interested in a door unit with sidelites, rect. transom, but I'll send it out anyway. I had this in a model I did a few years back so I just took the wall that had the door unit in it and put it in a new plan rather than make it a symbol. You can unblock it and play around with the size.

door.zip

By "cleaner" I'm not quite sure what you're after. When you use "Cross Section/Elevation" you get everything from the section cut to the end of the model of what is turned on in the layer set you are using. You can get a "cleaner" look by turning off certain layers. You can also use "Backclipped Cross Section" and you get from the cut to the distance and direction you move your mouse while holding the left mouse button down. This can also give you what I would call a "cleaner" look. It all depends what you want to see or not see. Can you show the section using AutoCad so we can see the comparison between AC and CA? I and others will then have a better understanding what you want.

Instead of second guessing the problem, which could be caused by many different things, the best thing to do would be to post the plan.