Larry_Sweeney

I had the same problem a few months ago. If I remember correctly I ended up making the steps out of a series of landings. This way I could make them any shape I wanted too.

If CA ever wants to get "into" light commercial they will have to figure out the "rubber roof department". Adding sloped rigid insulation sheets under the membrane and above the decking is a whole new ballgame for CA roofs. I guess for now with cross sections showing rubber roofs there will be a lot of cad work until (and if) CA figures this out.

I have a project that calls for a rubber membrane roof on part of the building. I was going to give this area a 1/4" pitch to the drains. In setting up my roof defaults I tried to make 0" overhang, but CA pops the 0" back to 1/4". I've never tried 0" overhang before and was wondering if it has always been this way? I know (or I think) I can always manually changed the overhand to 0" but why not be able to set the roof default to 0" overhang.?

Scott ........Many thanks for the video on the window. The way I was thinking of doing it would have been much more complicated.

Kevin........Many thanks also for your video also. I need to watch it a few more times to absorb everything. The video goes much faster than my brain.   I also liked the music, but miss Scott's commentaries, but then again, there is only one Scott (at least I hope so)     . Your roof video has me on the right track. I have to work on the "flare" at the drip as shown in the picture, but I'm up to the challenge (with a strong cup of coffee beside me and Chieftalk a "click" away) I love working on these old Victorian homes. They challenge me and CA with their architectural details.

To all..........I always appreciate anyone who takes the time for "handing" out advice. Time is something we never get back. Have a GREAT day!

For the window, I'm not quite sure how to "wrap" the shingles back into the window.....special designed casing symbol? Getting the regular siding shingles to line up with the "wrap around" shingles will probably be the hardest thing.

What makes the area above the "bay" tougher is that you have to "add in" the flare out that is positioned all along the first floor ceiling level line. This flare, I think, could be accomplished by a molding p-line. It's the extension above the bay along with the shingles and then lining up those shingles with the "regular" siding singles of the exterior wall that has my hair falling out.

This would be accomplished with the same "thought process" in CA as in the "real world". To set the unit "within" a wall you will probably have to make a "passthru" or "door" opening with no sill, jamb or casing in the wall where you want it placed and sized for the unit.

I HIT THE "POST" HALF A DOZEN TIMES AND MY REPLY WOULD NOT POST. HAS ANYONE ELSE BEEN HAVING THIS PROBLEM? I ENDED UP MAKING A WHOLE NEW REPLY.

Over the last three years I've been working on a project for a customer and it has taxed my knowledge of using CA and the capabilities of CA. I now have to make a model of the entire original structure and add some "period" additions to a already large structure for the period of it's construction. This 1890's home was considered "the cottage" by the original owner. I'm not quit sure how to go about best accomplishing the two details shown in the attachment and am asking for help from the knowledge base of this forum. With much patience I think at some point I would be able to come up with something. I'm just hoping someone on the forum has had experience in dealing with details like this and are open to passing on advice.There will probably be other items in the future I'll be asking about on how to do, but for now this is a start. Many thanks up front for advice.

Charlie....Yes, nicely done. Over the years I've worked on and did design work for many homes of this design type/period. If I may, I would like to give some suggestions. I know you weren't looking for that, but sometimes it's the little things that put the "icing on the cake".   1. It's hard to tell for sure, but it looks like the base molding is thicker and extends out past the casing.   2. I've seen many houses of this period having the same type "first tread" as you show with one exception. The rounded ends on the first tread is not cut off, but are returned all the way around to the wall as a full half circle. To be honest, I'm not sure CA can do this with their first tread. I think you will need to use a landing for the first tread to accomplish this procedure.    3. The outside corner trim/door casing to the right and across from the bottom of the stairs should go all the why to the floor and the base should butt into it instead of the corner trim butting into the top of the base. Please understand, I think you did a great job. These are (fine tunning) items I know from experience and am just passing them on to make a "A" design an "A+". Have a great day and good luck with your design.  

Charlie....Are you asking for anything or just showing?

odmac1.......You should move this thread to the Q & A section. You will get a response much quicker.

Sorry for not chirping in before this. I was out of the office most of yesterday. What I gather from what is being said is that first build the grid system them make a symbol for the panels---correct? The only problem I see using a symbol for the panels is that you might have to custom make many panel symbols for one ceiling depending how the panels "work out" around the outside edge and how the room is shaped, but I don't really see another option. This would be especially true in my case where the panel protrudes below the grid system. This was my original conclusion before making this thread. I'm not sure what I was hoping for other than another option or "magic trick". Thanks for your input and have a great day.

How does one go about showing a suspended ceiling with "drop in" panels that protrude below the metal grids? I have never had to deal with this type of ceiling with CA before. I'm not even sure if it"s possible, but I hope so. I have a very large basement remodel (wine cellar, refreshment area, game room, media room and workout room) where the customer wants to see the look of some very high end drop ceiling possibilities. (if there is such a thing) I might have put my foot in my mouth (which I do far to often  )  when I said "no problem".

I've had a HP 9800 printer for a few years now and have never had a problem with it. It prints up to 13"x19", but you can custom size your paper. I do 12"x18" all the time.

The more cores the better. Next month Intell is bringing out their 8 core processors. If you want speed I'd wait and start with one of them. Of course you might have to go to the bank. I haven't read up enough about them to know the cost of the processor. but I'd bet they will be +$1000.00 If you have the "Need For Speed" then money is no object. 

In elevation view "lay" the p-solid first on one of the post. Then stretch it to the overall size in width and height of the piece you want to have. With the p-solid highlighted, make a break on each side of the post where you want the arch to start. Then click on the section you want arched. Go to the bottom left corner of your CA window and click on "Change Line/Arc" icon. Repeat for all sections where you want arches. This is a very basic procedure in using the tools CA has to offer. I would study the manual and watch the many videos available. There are many free videos at Chieftutor.com, DSHall on Youtube, on Chiefarchitect.com (the training videos). I hope this helps and doesn't confuse you too much. Good luck and welcome to Chieftalk.

By molding, are you talking about the arched boards attached to the post? If so, then this can easily be accomplished with the use of p-solids.

Scott......Sorry for not piping in earlier. I've been away from the computer for a couple of days. I didn't think at the time it was necessary to make my question any clearer because just before that I was asking about showing the subfloor in the framing overview (temporarily). That was the "thought" I had in my head when I first asked the question about being able to show the roof sheeting in the 3d framing overview, but it looks like the "thought" was only in my head and no one else.    And yes I do realize it can be done the way Rich describes. Like you said, there are many ways to do it in the context of Rich's way. I was thinking "temporary".

I don't have the countertop layer on. I turned off all layers except for the cabinet base layer and I still have no sink showing in the reference display.

Michael......................Your's barely visible----mine invisible!    What sink did you use? I'm using the standard double kitchen sink that is in the library.

What is the trick to show a sink in a base cabinet using the Reference Display? I'm doing a plumbing layout and was going to turn on the base cabinets with sinks on the floor above for referencing my drain lines. The base cabinet shows, but the sink in the cabinet doesn't. I played around with the reference display options and layers but I can't find the cure. Is there one?

 All of my Builder clients will not buy trusses for an addition.

What is their reasoning behind this? Something to do with codes or liability out there?

Scott....Have you ever played around with just the roof sheeting showing on the rafters/trusses?

GOT IT! Everything shows like I want it to. I swear I had the same setting earlier and the subfloor did not show. The settings are Rooms-ON, Floor Surfaces-OFF. If I remember correctly Scott saying that the setting didn't always produce the results.

I would like to show the plywood floor in a 3D framing overview. I've played around with the floor surfaces, rooms and floor structure setup trying to get the right combination so the plywood subfloor would show along with the framing in a framing overview, but things aren't going very well. I remember Scott had a video "somewhere" where he was accomplishing this, but I can't locate it. Scott, can you or someone steer me in the right direction on how to get the subfloor to show? Thanks.

Perry....Thanks for leading me in the right direction. After "playing around" with the truss base and my situation I finally got acceptable results. My situation was using the "California Tie-In", but instead of pulling trusses I wanted to use rafters over the truss base. I don't know if it was the correct way, but I made seperate roof planes just over the truss base, Highlighted those planes and had CA just build framing for those planes. I'm not sure this is the "correct" way, but I got the results that were acceptable. I seem to think Scott may have done a video on this quite a while back, but I didn't find it. Now if we could only get CA to give us the ability to do the correct framing for using rafters on a "California Tie-In". Have a great day.