Larry_Sweeney

Perry..........For some reason Windows thinks X7 is still running when it's not. I don't have a problem opening X6 or X5. It just seems that when I try opening X7 I get the warning that it is already running, but when I open the Task Manager X7 is not shown running. Any ideas. Oh, I greatly appreciate your time and assistance.

Just to let you know up front, I am not "computer savy" in any way. I installed X8 Beta the other day and opened it to get a quick look around without any noticeable hitches, but until today I haven't had the chance to open X7 to work on an ongoing project. With nothing opened I tried to open X7 and I get this message . After hitting the "OK" this message shows up . Again I hit "OK" and the operation closes down.  I went to my X7 file in my Documents Library, where I have it filed, clicked on a plan to open and X8 Beta opens with the plan instead of X7 opening. With X8 Beta open I tried opening X7 while holding down the Control key, but I get the same warning message that the program is already running and X7 will not open. Can anyone explain to me what the h*** is going on.    Thank you in advance.

Dennis................Do you want the angled newels set at 22.5 degrees so the railing on both sides of the newel come into the newel at the same angle? If this is the case then you will probably have to go with Ray's suggestion. I run into this problem many times and up to now aways have gone with Ray's solution. If there is a better way I'm all ears.

My best advice is to build up your own library of early moldings as you need them. As for corbels and such (aka. symbols), yes you can find them on 3Dwarehouse, but I've found that most of the time they aren't exactly what I was looking for. most of the time I need some item to match an original. Learn to build your own symbols either with CA or Sketchup. I've found that about 90% of all the items needed can be accomplished with CA. As for Sketchup, the posibilites are unlimited and you should make it a priority to learn to use the program.

Mark.............Thanks for info for the "next time".................maybe X8!

Clare.....Depending on how particular you are with the final outcome I'll give you what I came up with. I made a custom door and drawer with a 1/4" "no material" edge around the custom door and drawer. This left a 5/16" open area around the doors and drawers when they are placed in a cabinet. I then added a 3D P-line and attached a 1/4" bead around the face of the frame. It's a real PITA, especially if you have a lot of cabinets. The next best solution is to make a custom door/drawer with a 1/4" bead on the outside edge. This gives you a 1/16" space between the bead and face frame though, but it is by far a lot faster. I think I made a suggestion for an option for adding beaded frames to cabinets. You can add your "2 cents" to that suggestion.........The "squeaky wheel" gets greased! 

"you can create a 'mask' of any shape you'd like."

Larry.......Thanks for the info. The "mask idea" is the best work around for what I need to do. It would be nice if the box border could be edited like any other box in CA. Have a great day.

Larry, is there a way to fillet (or chamfer) one corner at a time?

Isn't there a way to edit the layout box borders? I want to fillet the corners of my layout borders for a detail. I thought there was a discussion (thread) on this a while back, but I could not locate it with a search. I almost always have trouble with the "search engine" for finding a certain thread. I also looked in the help area to no avail. Thanks in advance for your time.

You might be able to get the auto framing to look like you want if you mull the units and set the proper spacing for the mulled units, but it will probably mess up the exterior trim to something you don't want.

 Shane.........Doing it like you state will get the door near the face of the 1/16" casing surface, but to use the casing I show in my first thread this won't work. At least I don't see how it would. I would have to "install" the casing I would want to see, using a 3D molding p-line and that will put me right back where I started.    Then again maybe I've had to much coffee today.

This is a work around that I use from time to time. I'll make a short line at the center of each window and color it white (background color) before I mull the windows. Then I manually adjust my dimension to the center of each window. Another area to consider is when you are doing the window schedule there will be more items to "fudge".

Alan..........Nice--I like it. It could be a little time consuming if I were showing that detail for an entire project, but It gets my casing where I want it. I'm going to "play" with your idea a little more and see if I can somehow improve on the "time" factor. Thanks and have a great day.

Bill...........The reason you were using a "custom door symbol" was so you could get the face of the door and casing on the same plane as I show in the first thread?

Bill...............Whenever I'm trying to to figure something "out of the box" with this program I almost always expect to hear from you.--------If I don't then nine times out of ten I figure it can't be done.    I'll be looking forward to your suggestions. Have a great day.

Alex................Thank you

How does one go about moving a thread? I posted a thread in "Symbols & Content" when I really wanted it to go into the "General Q & A" topic area. Thank you.

I just realized I put this thread in the wrong discussion area. I wanted it in the Q&A. Can someone tell me how to move it? Thanks

MY CHALLANGE OF THE DAY    I'm working on a restoration project for a 1830 Pa. stone house. The casings (all trim) is attached directly to the studding and the plaster comes up to the casing. I show in the following attachment what I'm after and what I've been able to accomplish so far.  I realize I can't get the rabbeted jam  (or can I?), but (1) is there any way to flush the face of the door to the trim? (2) I would also like to get the casing on the inside of the door to be next to the studding. I thought by changing the "jamb settings"  could possibility do the trick, but I'm getting nowhere. I was able to get the trim against the stud on the front side by changing this setting. . Does anyone have any work around suggestions to get these items accomplished? I suppose not to many of you come across this type of construction, but doing a lot of restoration work I run into it all the time. I know I can just make a cad detail of this, but it would be nice to somehow figure CA out to accomplish it in the model. Thanks for any and all advice. It's always appreicated.

Rich...............Not to get off the subject too far. A short time ago I put in the "Suggestions" that we should have the option to "rotate" the molding profile in the Molding Polyline Specification dbx.  https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/5769-option-to-rotate-a-molding-when-building-up-a-molding-profile/  This is just another case where it would come into play. Our only option now is to rotate the molding profile in Cad and then resave it. At some point you end up with a whole bunch of the same profiles just rotated at different angles and not knowing which one you will need to use until you see it actually "attached" to the molding p-line. If you agree, put a comment on that suggestion--------------squeeky wheel gets greased! 

Robert...............Yes, its working correctly now for me also----now. I reloaded the material off the site and started changing the texture scale. The first time I started changing my texture scale I only made a copy of the texture one time and used that copy to play with the scale. The second time, I made a copy of the texture on every scale change and it acted appropriately. I guess this was what Curt was telling me to do. Whatever------------at least I got the scale to where I like it. Thanks to all and have a great day.

I tried using the jpg. from the thread above, but it turned out blury. Here's the link of site where I got the texture if any wants to try.   http://www.swtexture.com/2013/04/slate-crazy-tiles.html

Curt.....The first thing I did was to make a copy.

Gram....For the pattern I have it set as area. With this pattern the scale is greyed out.

  This is the actual jpg. I downloaded for the material. Maybe someone else might try enlarging it and see if they get the same results. I'm going through the whole "materis loading" process and see if I get a different result.

Thanks to all for your time and advice.

As you can see from the attachment there is no distortation in the flagstone. The flagstone "texture size" hasn't change since the X/Y scale was at 96". I have it set at 168" in the Define Material dbx. now ,but there has been no change in render view.

I downloaded a flagstone texture and it turned out way to small in scale. I went into my "Define Material", "Texture" and my scales settings were set to 20" in the X & Y. I kept increasing the X/Y scale up through 96" and they were still to small. I went  and changed the scale to an even larger number and the scale showed change on the "teapot" in the dbx. window, but the scale did not change beyond the 96" scale in my render view. Will the scale only encrease a certain percentage from the original scale? If this is the case why does it keep showing an encrease size when the scale is encreased in the "Texture Window" in the Define Material dbx?

Perry........I keep forgetting about that. So what you're saying means that I could pull all the surfaces back 3" from the connection. I don't know if that would work in my case. I was making a railing wall on a stairs and wanted to stop the wall 3" back from another wall for space for a 1/2 newel post (millwork) With it "connecting" to the "millwork" newel post the spacing of the balusters were all spaced equal. If I would use the "edit wall layer intersection tool" and pull back the surfaces would the spacing of the balusters change? I'll have to play with this idea and see what the outcome will be. Have a great day.