johnny

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  1. johnny
    Yeah, good point - if I just "pre-made" different sizes for different wall heights at some point I would probably have most sizes covered....and then it would be much more simple. Is there a way to convert this type of object into a "type" which would allow the "window" pass-thru?
  2. johnny
    Yep - I started this in the suggestions area, since it would be very nice if you could apply this method to the actual wall layers.
  3. johnny
    Thanks for that Glenn - very helpul. Yeah, on some projects I may need varying height versions then. I was also going to play around with the "repeat/duplicate" options in the molding dbx to see if I could use 1 string of siding and custom size...perhaps I could customize this on the fly - but It wouldnt be hard to have different siding moldings I suppose.
  4. johnny
    Here is the CA file (zipped)... http://ge.tt/api/1/files/86QfoW92/0/blob?download
  5. johnny
    I'd love to show siding and shingle edges for weaved corner conditions on homes. To that end, I was watching a video on doing this in Archicad - which later gave me an idea as to doing this in CA. The problem with this work-around is I can't seem to figure out a way to get the windows/doors to come thru the molding profile. Below you will see I created a custom profile to display a lap siding condition - eliminated the siding layer from my exterior wall, and set an exterior molding ploy to emulate the siding. It produces, without needing a shadow texture (using just sun) this effect: In vector: and elevation: Would love to have suggestions on how to get around the window/door issue - and I am very exciting about using this on my homes from now on. Thanks!
  6. johnny
    Is there anyway to have several line segments (all end points touching) to converge into a single poly in only a couple steps? So far, the CA help seems to suggest the only way that is possible is to go back and snap the line end-points one at a time. http://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00171/
  7. johnny
    I would personally sister on a 2x10 with a notch/cut to your 2x6 tail so the dimensional lumber better connects with the top/bottom flange of the rafter members. For modeling, can't you just have the I-joist clipped at bearing wall and manually place the sister-ed lumber piece on each rafter? ... or will cheif not show to the fascia if the framing is a custom model piece?
  8. johnny
    I was suggesting that since the trees and exterior in the example are drawings themselves - not photos. I suppose you could create a background of those drawings (making an image file) and then apply an overall semi-transparent white-wash to then set as a background back inside CA - but I still suggest for still images Photoshop would be extremely quick....and you could so more with some of the filters etc. Im not in front of my work computer, but can you get shadows in the technical drawings?
  9. johnny
    There are products that help deal with water/rain/moisture in "wet" climates. Here is a good one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgCbk76f3-E I've done several stucco homes in the general Seattle area, and by itself stucco handles fine in wet weather - its typically an issue with moisture getting in behind the stucco and causing mold and breakdown. There are ways to deal with that in your detailing and specifications.
  10. johnny
    I think your best bet would be getting a white model out of CA (which is somewhat odd that isn't a pre-set style), and then finish the rest in Photoshop. I agree, that looks very nice.
  11. johnny
    I agree with this. Trying to communicate the orientation of a post through the use of "what number comes first" doesn't seem logical since most other "top down" framing members are set to small number first, larger second. Its not as if a 2x6 on one side of a house becomes a 6x2 on the other. Id want framers to use the drawing to see the orientation. Maybe I am missing a key point to this. I always notate small number first, larger second for posts, since they are most often vertical framing members.
  12. johnny
    You know, this is a good example of what i've referred to in other posts. Not having to enter dialog boxes so often is a huge overall time-saver and I would love to see CA develop further along these lines.
  13. johnny
    Nice drawing btw. Solid traditional brick design. but since you asked for comments/critique: - The window above entry door seems to have a diff radius than the rest of the windows (perhaps this is just an optical illusion), but I would make sure they all match. - Can I ask what the balustrades and columns (garage) are functioning as? I realize parts of the country adding detail for the sake of detail is a popular thing, but i've never been a big fan of just adding detail without some semi-justification (meaning, yes i might call for a faux beam, but it looks appropriate to have a beam in that location for support). - I dont think the front door looks great, especially with the only square clerestory window on front. Perhaps making the entire front door/lager clerestory seem integrated would help. Id readily admit these items are nitpicky and the house would be good without even changing anything. For its style, you've done a great job on this. When I was first getting into design, I used to draw my elevations (finished plans) in Corel since I didn't like the 2d options in AutoCad.
  14. johnny
    The bump-out works, but to make it look correct IMO you need to bring the eave of the roof down to around 1/4 (approx), so inside the visual of a knee wall is really the exterior wall. Here is an example in a design I did,and I personally use this type of dormer a lot.
  15. johnny

    Pavers

    johnny replied to Dennis_Gavin's topic in General Q & A

    Just a recommend but 3d textures like pavers look amazing if you create a bump-map. This was taken from a place you can buy 3d textures - http://www.creativecrash.com/marketplace/3d-textures/c/paver-blocks-11-high-res-set Here are some free paver downloads with bump-map, but more limited selection - http://www.rendertextures.com/category/concrete/pavers/ FYI that free location has a lot of very good textures for quick projects.
  16. johnny
    I have a lot of respect for my father's design abilities. However, he mainly worked with an architect for years before he even started drawing "certain" plans by hand. Of all the homes my father built - around 2k - only a small handful of those have been designed by himself. Some of his early success was the fact he worked with a VERY good architect - Stuart Silk - http://www.stuartsilk.com/ My father using designs by Stuart made his work stand out from other builders. Even he acknowledges that working with a good architect was vital for his early career.
  17. johnny
    Could you explain more how you made the composition of the last image? I really like that look.
  18. johnny
    OK...i agree, i wasn't implying anything except he didn't say "it is illegal for non-architects to do design". That was the entire scope of my comment. Sorry if you thought I was suggesting more, but I am not.
  19. johnny
    Just a suggestion that on some renders you should do post processing more in Photoshop. What I like to do is massively lighten up a picture on 1 layer, and then lightly erase back out sections that ended up too washed out with the original darker photo on the later below. Just messing with yours for 2 min.
  20. johnny
    No, he never said that. He made the point following post #3 in the signature block "Award Winning Architectural Designer with 30 years of design experience". The term architectural can only be used by licensed entities...not a designer.
  21. johnny
    I love client ideas....i dont want to make you think I enforce my designs like the "soup-nazi". In fact, I often ask clients to try and browse magazines and cut out sections they find appealing to create a collage of design ideas (perhaps even including floor plan sections). Frankly, if someone came to me with a floor plan and said ONLY produce working drawings from that drawing - I would refer them to a draftsman.
  22. johnny
    I think this thread is an argument about perception of what some might think is being said vs what is actually strictly being said. My main points are against someone trying to buy a piece of software and design their home without a professional's help. That professional help can come in the form of an architect or designer - both with the caveat they should be "good". There is more you say I agree with than not...primarily being what constitutes "the bottom line". An agree to disagree there is fine with me.
  23. johnny
    I know, but if you back-up to that type of logic, anyone can do anything (as consequences are what they are, Ceteris paribus) - someone can operate on themselves but whether they live or die is to be determined.
  24. johnny
    ....lol You're right, it had nothing to do with #6 in saying - "You probably don't need an Architect", "building design can be done by anyone including yourself", and "Architect's always try to scare everyone". That obviously had nothing to do with this thread going this way. #4 pointed out you can't legally say "architectural design" (which is true), and #5 I pointed out that a layman DIY shouldn't think they can design a home without professional help. Not one post have I made a distinction between a good designer and architect. I made the distinction between a DIY and a professional. If you honestly think that "anyone" can buy box software and design their home, and have it turn out well, then you basically devalue what you (and we) do.
  25. johnny
    Look at it this way - In the modern art scene there is a category of art call "abstract". I think a popular comment from some people is "my 3 year old could make that", yet to art connoisseurs they can see the compositional differences with ease. In fact, I would propose that if you had a 3 year old paint abstract art and placed it side-by-side with a professional piece, most people would be drawn to the better composition in mass - even though they might not be able to identify "what" makes it "look" or "feel" more pleasing to the eyes. If you employ good composition, one of which being appropriate proportions (ie Golden Proportions), then your learning about these ratios will indeed help your designs. Yes, I do believe that. Here is a neat little article you might like - http://www.emis.de/journals/NNJ/Salingaros.html