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Posts posted by joey_martin
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I don't think I have manually framed a floor in years. Are you sure you aren't missing something in the process? By using the framing defaults, making sure your beam defaults are set up correctly, and using the framing direction tool with the bearing line you should not need to do much manual framing. Even if you do for some reason, simply leave the auto framing on in the beginning of the process and turn it off once all your sill plates are in place.
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The wall part is easy, just a pony wall with a layer of insulation added. For the slab, set the thickness of the slab to 6" and when you detail, pull the fill up 2" and add the insulation fill as needed.
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The clean-up is minimal and easy enough to deal with.
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Open the window(s) and make sure the box is checked for those items to be included. Chief will not make a window egress or tempered based on size, you must check the boxes.
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LA as in Los Angeles, or LA as in Louisiana?
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You need to pull the door down to the floor or raise the slab to the bottom of the door and it will fix itself.
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If you have an opening in the wall, show the level that will allow the opening to still be visible. In other words..a pony wall of CMU on the bottom and 2x4 framing on the top, with a window in the framing (think daylight basement), I would show the framing part of the wall so that I can dimension the opening. I will put a dashed CAD line to show that there is a thicker wall below, note it, and can dimension to that CAD line if needed.
If the different size wall thickness is linear, then I would simply place a break in the wall and choose to use the new wall type accordingly.
Hope that helps.
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It has always been my understanding that we actually Draw at 1:1 , and the Scale ( in Drawing Sheet Setup Page ) is only applied when we Print or Send to Layout.
This is true. Plan files are 1:1, layout is whatever you tell it to be.
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Are you doing all the modeling as well as the renderings?
I am sure the builder thought that anything above free was too much...in my experience.
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@CornerstoneBill let me check when I get back into the office this afternoon. I have a couple older dongles you are welcome to if I have the one you need.
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Are you talking actual blueprint, like back in the day? Or you just need some pages printed?
I no longer keep a large format printer in the office, so I simply email them to my local staples to be printed and pick them up.
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Just an FYI....there is no "convert to post & beam" tool. The plan will need some re-working most likely.
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Rooms are already calculated. Just turn on the option in the schedule.
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Alan when you select the roof return there is an option to "extend" the roof return. Set that to 8"-10" and see what you get. I bet you get what you are looking for.
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BTW @SNestor, I simply change my material to light gray in the materials dbx. So whatever pattern is assigned to the shingles, brick, siding, etc...I simply open that material and change the patter color to light gray.
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No drainage plans around here.
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I do control my elevations with layer sets. Always send live elevations. @SNestor I'm not sure if I shared these with you previously or not.
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....windows and doors from any schedule....
Rarely use them
Dimensions for Electrical
in General Q & A
Posted
Just to toss the question out there before your electrical contractor does...but...when Chief dimensions all those outlets, switches, etc...are you going back in and ensure all the framing members align with those dims? As an example, here is a plan I am working on that I placed some auto outlets in and then turned on the wall framing. There are multiple outlets that are between 2 studs. Sometimes too much information is just that, too much information.