joey_martin

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Posts posted by joey_martin

  1. Just to toss the question out there before your electrical contractor does...but...when Chief dimensions all those outlets, switches, etc...are you going back in and ensure all the framing members align with those dims? As an example, here is a plan I am working on that I placed some auto outlets in and then turned on the wall framing. There are multiple outlets that are between 2 studs. Sometimes too much information is just that, too much information.

    Screenshot 2018-06-21 14.51.34.png

  2. I don't think I have manually framed a floor in years. Are you sure you aren't missing something in the process? By using the framing defaults, making sure your beam defaults are set up correctly, and using the framing direction tool with the bearing line you should not need to do much manual framing. Even if you do for some reason, simply leave the auto framing on in the beginning of the process and turn it off once all your sill plates are in place.

  3. I download the hangers from the 3D warehouse. When you set up the framing defaults, make sure you uncheck BEAM BELOW JOISTS and the beams you draw will be flush with your joists. Not too complicated once you figure out how to let Chief do the work for you.

    Screenshot 2018-03-16 20.46.55.png

  4. If you have an opening in the wall, show the level that will allow the opening to still be visible. In other words..a pony wall of CMU on the bottom and 2x4 framing on the top, with a window in the framing (think daylight basement), I would show the framing part of the wall so that I can dimension the opening. I will put a dashed CAD line to show that there is a thicker wall below, note it, and can dimension to that CAD line if needed.

     

    If the different size wall thickness is linear, then I would simply place a break in the wall and choose to use the new wall type accordingly.

     

    Hope that helps.