joey_martin

Chief Good....Softplan bad.....

2 hours ago, DavidJPotter said:

Foundations should be designed by a State Licensed Structural Engineer, period (not an Architect, no me or you).

With all due respect David, that blanket statement simply doesn't apply to everyone. I have been doing this a long time, and have never hired an engineer to design a foundation. In fact, I'm not sure where to even find an engineer that would bother with a task like that, unless it's for a large building downtown. Residential home design and construction is not the rocket science some make it out to be. 

@DesignMC Do you have the plans in PDF version? If so, I will take a look and shoot you back a price or a couple ideas to get you moving in the right direction. My email is joeymdp@gmail.com, it's also in my signature.

When selecting a dimension to make a move, at least in the Premier version, there are a couple things that could be going on. 

1) When you select a side to move that set-back, are you sure you are moving just the side and not the entire box? In my screen shot, the option I have highlighted will move the line and not the entire polyline.

2) Remember that you are moving an arc, and that arc has a radius that will not change, so....when you move the side setback, the arc radius doesn't change accordingly, so you end up with a "skewed" arc. To prevent that, look for this tool to disconnect the edge you want to move from the arc, allowing the arc to stay put, and you can move the side.

Without knowing all the limitations of the home designer version, you should simply be able to make that concentric setback line, I would make it 5' for the sides, and then simply click on the front section and select the temporary dimension that pops up and move the line. In the premier version of Chief this process takes just seconds to complete.

Here I am hovering over a base cabinet and Chief shows me the centerpoint. Also, check EDIT>SNAP SETTINGS>CENTER and make sure that is on.

I think Chief does the same thing. Make sure the deck footing layer isn't locked. I have found that when objects are on locked layers, the center function doesn't work.

In my opinion, if you aren't placing walls then you are asking for trouble. I do quite a few kitchens and would never try one without knowing how much room I have to work with. Hard to sell a 123" run of cabinets if there is only 119" from drywall to drywall.

4 minutes ago, Evolution said:

I did a cross section elevation, then after opening, did cad from view.  I've spent several hours adding details etc., and sent it to layout.  Then the owner asked me to add a canopy,

Which is why I NEVER....EVER....use CAD from View for elevations. Everytime the client will ask to change something. Always use live camera views when completing elevations.

But....Take another CAD from View shot, delete everything that doesn't need updated (not as bad as it sounds) and use the COPY and PASTE IN PLACE function on the version you have sent to layout. That should "paste" your update onto the elevation and you can then clean it up a bit.

I use layer sets and set the color of the pattern in the model. 

Edit area, should move everything at once.

I had the HP110 for years, which I think was the predecessor to the HP120. I loved it! I did not have the roll feeder, simply feed sheets through the rear as needed and let them fall into the catcher. I gave it up when I moved the office home, and no one was requesting prints much anyway, just PDFs. I now have an Epson that will do 11x17 and it works great.

That is a pretty common design situation where basements are used in conjunction with stairs on a basement wall. Many times that offset is finished and trimmed out to produce a plant shelf, or as stated above, you can have a double wall, or furred wall running up the staircase. Whichever method you use, may also depend on if the staircase is enclosed and is visible, the design intent of the client/designer, or your personal aesthetic as a designer.

After it happened to me a couple of times I remembered to close Chief...so...maybe everytime for me.

I have found this to be true as well. Once you save a plan to Dropbox, Chief needs to be closed before that file will update. Had it happen a few times.

I am still using X8. Do you need the X8 files used or move them up?

Shoot me an email and I'll have a peek.

joeymdp@gmail.com

https://static.tti.tamu.edu/tti.tamu.edu/documents/4364-2.pdf

I hear great things about Arizona....hmmm......

I use Eric method so that sections and details will be a bit closer. Polysolids have their place...a chimney like this isn't one of them.

Glad I could help.

If you refuse to sell it along with a re-use fee, he will simply have his guy re-create it and you will be left with $0.00 (save all the copyright B.S. he would NEVER win that and if he did, to what cost) I have sold the rights to my plans many times to builders for that very reason. If I say no, they will find someone to say yes, and I get nothing. 

I am very upfront and honest with them. If my normal fee to purchase the design/plan is $1200, and I would charge say...$450 for derivatives..then I will want the original $1200, plus an additional $4500 for the 10 plus derivatives he will build over the course of time. If he balks at the $5600, I kindly...sometimes not so kindly because I am blunt as a spoon...remind him of how much money he is going to be making off my design. 

You will need to create the porch and make it a gable roof, then lower the baseline by what ever that distance is between the two roof planes. Looks like 20"-24" between the two gutters. 

You should be able to do that. Are you talking about the gable roof at the porch?

Select the wall and open the framing detail. Change the framing as needed to accommodate what you are after.

Look in the menu under BUILD and you will see some options for TRIM. You can take an elevation view and use the 3D molding poly line tool to create all the various moldings you are after.

One milllllion dollars....