SHCanada2

what is your ceiling elevation at for that outdoor room? notice mine is at -28

after you create the second floor, change the second floor walls to align with your desired bonus room. Use the wall align tool to ensure they are on top of lower storey walls, if desired (normally the case for outside walls)

The easiest way to do this that I have found for project management mode, is to have a "template" project which sits at the top of the list (I do it by naming it _template). and then have your template layout and template plan fully linked in the template project. For new projects, you right click on the template project and click copy. Then rename the new project to whatever you want. The links will still be there. You do not have to use "common documents"

then I see two different scenarios. 1. you can do it as I showed, or 2, build it with declining pitched full span trusses all the way to where the left of your blue line is. I think 2, would be the better option, but to model it in chief, I think(but maybe others have a better way) you would have to create like 20 roof planes, each very narrow from the top down to the eave, and each with a slight decreasing pitch, from right to left. You could try start using 24" spacing for the roof planes, but I'd not sure how the 3d would look. my guess is it would show too disconnected at the top If I were you, I'd call the truss company to see what their thoughts are

I dont see a curve in the picture. Are they looking for a curved roof, or just a declining ridge at a set decline pitch?

I think the roof is flat, but it is certainly not trivial. I actually did something similar on my attached garage in order to have the roof ridge be below a window at the house. I spoke to the truss guys and they were a little surprised at what I wanted. I describe it to them as reducing the peak of each truss from front to back by 1/2 inch so when I got to the house, it was 3 inches shorter.

I think you have to play with the pitch and rotated angle of the roof plane. But then again, maybe there is a simpler way

for the first picture, wouldnt it just be a seperate roof plane on either side which starts from the top, and then goes down to the right corner of the roof,but angled? let me try

cool looking house

the chase around the elevations problem. I've had it many times ...from what I remember Possible Issue 1: I find that if your entire basement is not at the same elevation and ceiling heights, then any rooms that you try and make different, must have a corresponding room on the main floor with the main floor walls over top of the basement walls Issue 2: Set the absolute elevations, then set the stem wall. or post a video of the issue, and/or the plan

does the material list not work for siding? i did a quick test on a wall with a garage door and it appears to work

What are you having issues with? I make the stairwell a room (ensiure the floor level is where you want it to be and ceiling just above grade), add the stairs, make the stair material all concrete, set overhang to 0. and i ignore that proper concrete steps have a sloping riser i draw a railing on the floor above to match make a terrain hole if you have to

Curious... did you take the pictures for hover? Are the footprint and window dimensions accurate?

I make mine using the stock cabinet, delete the door, add drawers .. but I've had the same question as to why not al ready there

Not sure what you are trying to accomplish with polylines. What polylines are you referring to

Copy paste hold position if you want it to show up in the same place

did you check the wall settings vs the OOTB template plan ...almost looks like balloon framing with two different wall types. you could try checking that:

i have the basement on level 0. I also have the basement walls in my template on level 0. I manually align the walls to the main floor, rather than use the auto build foundation. unless of course I am doing nothing in the basement, then I will delete the foundation and turn on auto foundation

one suggestion, try rebuilding the "all" framing.

try @Renerabbitt

After doing a very time consuming property mostly due to the many rooflines, I went looking again for scanning apps that could help. iGuide now does elevations. I had a session today with one of their people. iGuide has their own camera similar to matteport. the iGuide one is currently on sale for $1800 USD. https://store.goiguide.com/. It also works outside. The interesting thing is the price and time it takes to scan. It is 8 sec per scan. A 2000 sq ft house could then be done in under 30 min plus the exterior. The price for a 2000sq ft house, floor plans and elevations in DWG is $225 CAD (~150USD). No subscription. You also get the visual tour included, so then one does not have to take their own video https://goiguide.com/pricing Seems pretty good. I think one would still have to take laser measurements for crucial areas Has anyone tried iGuide? I'm curious to know how good their elevations are in real life where there is only 8ft between houses with bushes and sheds. They did tell me they have humans doing the elevations and floor plans, and they show both the point cloud(below) and the elevation in the pdf package they give you. It also gives you a (inaccurate) listing of windows and doors. i.e. doors were listed at 6'7, 6'8, 6'9. I don't think i really care except for the door widths as I typically dont specify height for doors. Window guys always come and measure the windows themselves so that does not have to be accurate.

I'm curious, do you dimension the man door and overhead door foundation cutout(buck as known here)? Overhead doors here will get a 16'4 or larger cutout for a 16' door. From what I have seen on plans, these do not ever get dimensioned, or at least not that I have seen

I normally put the beam on the main floor. I would normally try a railing for this using post to beam option and ensure it encloses a room. And ensure the room is a deck or porch..looks like deck in your case I would put in a set of stairs which would break the railing. It looks like you are close except the beam and stairs? I'm not sure what that random 2' of siding is on the post, I've seen a couple videos on building "covered porches" including one by snestor which, if you havent watched them, might be worthwhile

potato potahto I think. For my plans I will sometimes need to add layers or layer sets that are one offs, and would be clutter for every plan. If I add a new layer I think will be useful, I will add it back to the template, same with default sets. And to be honest sometimes I am lazy working with current plans where I will draw dimensions using one set and then decide they are to big or small, and then I just change the text height, which means the dim set is no longer what it was intended to be. If I used my latest plan as the next template, I would either have to revert that or live with the inconsistency, which may bite me later. I try and keep notes for stuff I want to update on my template. But my template also has 4 walls on the main floor, and a basement, and two terrain regions, and .... stuff that I want to be there for the next plan. IF you use the current plan which may for instance have to have had 6 terrain regions, then you would have to delete them for a flat lot plan, or set them all to the same elevation. Its work either way