GeneDavis

Look through the thread here titled "How to create life-like grass."

You want an applied end? A stile and rail panel with flat or raised panels?

Need to see the room below. The foundation. I'm in this thread with phone only . . . No Chief.

You didn't show a pic of the garage room d'box.

Take a screenshot of your main floor plan with the garage highlighted. Open the garage room spec dialog. Take a second screen shot of the d'box. Post both pics here. Alternatively: The building looks uncomplicated. Make a copy of the plan, strip it of everything except walls, roofs, doors, and windows. No cabinets, no furnishings, no furniture, nothing that can jack up the poly count. You should be able to get it to a size for zipping and attaching the compressed file here. Remind us to open it using X14.

The truss envelope can be edited in section view. In truss detail view, you can edit the envelopes and chords. In my experience the only edit that sticks when copying a truss is an envelope edit that's been locked.

Didn't look at the file, but were your edits to the envelope or to the chords?

Drag its edge way in there. Don't be shy. You're the boss. Then call the engineer and tell her what you did.

Here is a perfect example of cabinets that would make use of such a feature when doing the build. The same pull is used in the center panels of 5 piece drawerfronts as is used in the slab drawerfronts of the top drawers. Then above, the pulls are used on doors, on the stiles of the doors. One would use the feature when building default bases, only, as the default position for the pulls is out at the "flush" location and the feature is only needed to sink them where needed.

That one ought to become a suggestion for a future release, Larry. Write it up as a request, and show in the request how the setting needs to be able to work at the opening level of a cabinet, not just "globally" for one cabinet. This, to be able to handle those rare cases like what you show in your image, in which the top drawerfront is a slab and those below it are 5-piece stile and rail with recessed panel. You want the pull at zero for the flush slabs and at minus whatever for your paneled drawerfronts.

We've really no idea what you're talking about. Give us the the problem you have, and an attached plan file demonstrating it. in a new thread please. This one is someone else's.

3D Warehouse has a beauty.

Has a suggestion been made for Chief to have roofing o'hang and drip edge flash modeled into roofs based on inputs in the spec dialog? Both are features of every roof I do, and it would be nice not having to add using CAD in section views.

Or material regions. One for the arc-segment window top (it's recessed) and one for the brick lintel (proud). Good luck texturing the lintel so it looks like the photo. That might require a material region for each brick. Must it render with photorealism to match the pic? I'd charge by the minute if my client made me do it. A good situation for clay rendering.

Paint can?

You have an interesting mix of box types along the vanity run. The drawer stacks are frameless, while the sink bases are faceframed with only a 3/8" overlap for doors and drawerfronts. Is this the look you want? Whoever quotes the cabinets will sure want to know. I never place a cabinet adjacent a wall (or adjacent a deeper cabinet) without doing an extended stile (if faceframed) or a filler (when frameless) to give a little extra clearance for doors and drawerfronts when opened. You might want to consider that here.

This seems to be about "off-angle" walls and the program rebuilding walls when working to place and edit positions of wall openings (windows, doors) after you carefully placed walls to a CAD polyline or lines. Right? Post two versions of your plan. One in which your walls are where wanted. The other should show how Chief "dinked" walls after you added openings and edited position. Oh, and start your own new thread. This seems to be about Chief rebuilding walls when opening-work is done to them. Edit: I used X15 to draw a four wall "house" with one skew wall. Chief wanted it to be at one of the 7.5 degree snaps, but I used CAD to draw my preferred polyline with the skew angle "off" so as to get OK lengths for the top and bottom wall lengths. My skew line came in at -82.598612°. Chief wanted it to be 82.5 degrees. I used "make parallel" and the CAD polyline to force the wall to angle, then moved it to align to the CAD polyline with the p'line in place. I then placed a window and edited the position along the wall. The wall angle did not change, nor did the wall position.

Here is an example from a plan I did that required CAD to get the walls right. The skew wall has an angle of -82.543935° which matches the CAD segment in the polyline I used to force the wall to the lines. First drawn, Chief makes it -82.5 degrees which matches a plan default allowed angle (7.5 degrees). I forced it to match using the make parallel tool and had to edit with close zooms, but I got it. The two short dimensions plus the other rectilinear dimensions locate the ends of the skew wall, and I wanted those dimensions no finer than 1/2" increments so the foundation builder can build the formwork for the slab. The length of the skew wall is inconsequential. It is the corners (the ends) that are located. It's what you gotta do when you have skew walls that are off-angle. Draw the CAD and edit however needed to get right, then do walls and some forcing with the make-parallel tool.

To the OP: Have you tried using Chief CAD to draw your building lines? Are you able to get the geometry needed? Nail in all down in CAD, then draw walls and edit them to align precisely to the CAD. It is the only way to get the precision needed when there are walls with irregular angles.

Consider contacting some of our members here that are skilled in all those aspects of Chief rendering you need. Pay for some one on one training. Some of those members participated in the "realistic grass" thread which ran recently, and also the one on spherical backdrops.

Post the plan.

Looks like you changed the material of some framing members to something other than the default fir framing. Select one of those plates or studs and inspect the material. Report here what you find.

Flat-deck the thing and do all your drain sloping with tapered roof insulation. TPO membrane over. Your framing and roofing subs will applaud your wise decision.

Digging into this just a tad more, I see your ceiling heights for the living side of this project is at 11 feet, which seems a weird choice. Why not 10 feet, which results in a far more efficient use of framing lumber, and sheetrock? And your exterior wall build seems questionable. You show two framing layers one 4 inch one 10 inch. Are you planning to double-frame for doing high-R insulation? Your heel heights over the exterior walls at rear don't look right for someone who is doing ultra thick walls for energy. What kind of R for ceiling are you looking for? Is blown cellulose the plan?

Maybe pay a pro to do this for you, and include those charges when you bill the client who keeps moving things around. I opened Steve's "fixed" file, selected the porch roofs and those for the gable, moved them out 8' using transfer>move, and edited the roofs to join. The walls were locked so I did not bother with them to move the post/beam walls out, but the gable truss was not locked so I moved it out too. I suggest you engage with a truss engineer to see how this best gets framed. Where I do work there are limits on truss lengths and heights due to transport.