GeneDavis

Sidewall framing probably means attached "ladders" which some truss plants will build. My work is an a zone with 100 psf GSL and it gets done if gable o'hangs are a foot or less. You all with those minimum heel heights must be building where ceiling insulation isn't important. We've got to go R50 now, and that takes some overhead.

And the VSD of course changes when the top chord size is changed. I do a lot of big overhangs, and the trusses often are built with 2x6 or 2x8 top chords at the tails, sometimes with the top chords segmented, only the tail plus the first run to a web that size, the rest 2x4.

Show me a truss plant's drawing that has heel height shown differently than top plate up to intersect of top chord line. I like the new setup. Saves time. Before, needed to do the math to get an energy heel roof height done correctly, now it's "auto." Don't we all love "auto?"

The wall is made a pony wall, framed wall top, concrete foundation wall bottom. It sits atop the concrete frost wall. The pony wall is specified to have the break at your chosen elevation. in elevation, you drag/edit your footings down where needed. Step where appropriate.

What have you tried?

I have my frameless cabinetry specs set up with the old Blum system 32 spacings for drawers and margins. As per recommendations here by those pros that do lotsa cabinets, my box style is framed, not frameless, and separations are 3/4". But to get my preferred (per Blum 32) margin of 3/8" from top of base to top of top drawerfront or door, I edit the overlay. You type "fillets." Do you mean fillers?

I see your problem. Your roof structure has, in effect, a sheathing depth of close to a foot, and no matter how you set your sufascia, which sets o'hang depth, you have that high buildup over that wants to be part of the o'hang. I've used separate planes but for a different reason. How doe it look to you with the separate roof plane? It'll give the look you need in 3D, not so much in 2D plan view if you are doing a roof plan in layout.

Might take you a few minutes using Chief CAD to draw a scale profile of an RC-1 2" x 1/2" channel. Is that what you need?

Those GA type and ESR type reports are Gypsum Association docs, and won't be any help with your Hardie Plank finished wall. I looked here, in a web page from James Hardie, linking to Warnock Hersey reports of fire-rated wall assemblies faced with Hardie products. I was in the entry door business (ThermaTru) and we did all our fire door testing at Warnock Hersey labs and they provided reports such as these. I could not find a wall assembly making a 1-hour rating that did NOT have 5/8 GWB (gypsum wall board) on the exterior side of the framing layer. Recommend you ask the AHJ plans review person if a Warnock Hersey doc will do for your project, where the 1-hour wall is needed, and that you study the information at the link. https://www.jameshardie.com/product-support/resource-center/technical-documents/fire-wall-assemblies?loc=refresh

One door, options tab, 2 panels right, two panels left, looks like what you want.

Nice little place. Steel roofing? Cricketing ahead of that thru-wall feature, and the short parapet on the low side?

Same footprint same foundation slab, but the project now has two floors but when permitted it was a three-story? Sounds to me like the plans reviewer at the building department has to take a look at the whole thing, now that it is reduced in size. Like, from scratch. Elevations with a revision cloud around the space formerly occupied with the third floor? Sounds silly to me. A floor plan for floor three, a big revision cloud around it saying, "not to be done now" sounds like a recipe for confusion.

Flat ceiling unchecked.

"Is there a setting to automatically increase the foundation thickness to match the 1st floor wall type?" Do you see anything in the wall specification that looks like it might address this? Look again. Examine every aspect of the wall specs. Very deep subject, as there are many panels to examine. And when you get into wall type definitions, look again at all that is there. It was where you found which layer responds to dimensions. I can give you the short answer, which is no, but maybe now is the time to take a deep dive into how Chief does walls, so as to help build your skills in Chief.

As they say in the commercial, "have it your way!" Three minutes sixteen seconds to go from Chief all one texture, into SU, do some materials work, back into Chief, nicely done with stainless steel and plastic where needed.

It only works as shown when the ridge is structural. Absent that, there must be collar ties.

I tried framing the wall and got nothing, this, after changing the wall type by copying the default exterior wall and changing its def to read "no sheetrock in" and then framing. I'm doing it wrong and will try some more.

Seems like a lot of work. You can open a new blank file, place a Rev a Shelf symbol in it, and export the file in .collada format, then import it into Sketchup to materialize to your hearts content, then import the SU as the symbol you want. You gotta have SU to do this, though.

I like the drawerbox with tray dividers for storage. Using Sketchup, I made one that is right-sized for an 18" width frameless base cabinet. Here it is. Import it as millwork and you can get the result shown in the pic. 1/2" side clearance, made with 5/8 sides and the dividers are 1/4" with a top scoop CNC cut. Edit: Here is a pic of the way I've been doing tray division. We do cabs using an app in which we "build" them in 3D and the file output drives the CNC machine that cuts and labels all the component parts. The dividers are cut from 1/4" baltic birch ply and fit to the carcase parts with blind tenons. It is less expensive a build than doing it as a d'box, but with the d'box you get the convenience of pulling the set out for somewhat easier access. Save the cost of a d'box, and a pair of hinges is less than a pair of Tandem Blumotion slides. Tray divider drawer 18.skp

It only works as shown when the ridge is structural. Absent that, there must be rafter ties.

Look carefully at the shingled texture in Michael's images, and compare to my triangular poly surfaces.

/@buzzsaw204 your image shows a roof shape that has a common fascia height, as it descends in pitch from 8/12 to 4/12. A roof thus built has twisted surfaces, not planar, and I do not believe Chief can model this for you unless you segment the roof. I used Sketchup and drew a 24 x 24 footprint with warped roofs to model what you show in your image. I triangulated each 24" rafter bay to be able to get the app to show surfaces. One of the images clearly shows the warp or twist in the roof. Chief can do this if you model each triangular plane and place them all, but it is tedious. It is impossible to texture to get a seamless shingled look, because the baselines all differ as you move along the line of the fascia edges.

Ryan's way is faster than mine, so proceed, but remember to set floor joists as lumber, and I think you will still have to manually draw that plate on which the rafters bear. Change the wall type for the second floor to not have an inside layer of sheetrock. Change the specs for the second floor "room" (which is the actual attic) to not have a base molding. Draw that plate using General Framing. Doing it the way I first suggested might be almost as fast, because you don't have to draw a second floor, mess with wall specs to delete the sheetrock in the "attic," or delete the base molding in the "attic." All you have to do is raise the roof and draw the edge framing, plus edit the ceiling joists.

Manually raise the roof, manually draw in the framing, edit to your satisfaction, take a live section view. Chief won't autoframe those two members.

Look through the thread here titled "How to create life-like grass."