GeneDavis

I helped the frame gang do something I sketched out, helped because it was easier to just do it than talk about it. We set the first inboard common truss down on cribbing, tacked on some temporary vertical 2x4 spacers on which to set the reduced top gable truss, then nailed on the lookouts, the subfascia, and the big barge rafters (fascia) and hoisted the assembly up right after the common trusses were set and there was something to tie it to. This was 2011, northern Adirondacks, three weeks ahead of the hurricane Irene rains that washed out bridges and roads and isolated the job for ten days of ATV-only access.

@DeLayDesign thank you. That is a real paddleboard. Looks great!

Frame the openings with no header, and in the framing above, whether roof or floor, edit the end joist or rim arrangement to get the beef you need. Or use steel.

I've heard framers call them ladder rungs. As in, "send up that gable ladder with the rungs." Particularly the ones that do not sit atop the gable wall, but instead are just nailed outside to the framing through the sheathing. The truss plants here are panelizers also, and build them like 12" h. or whatever studwalls, single plate top, single plate bottom, and they get picked and set with a crane right after the trusses are set and braced.

Thanks, Michael. All's good now.

Not working for me, Joe. On the opposite side, I removed the truss base, leaving the over-roof, the under-roof, and the ceiling plane under the under-roof. Tried to drag-repeat the truss over and got three little trusses INSIDE the scissors envelope.

I've a 17 meg file I tried compressing and I hope you can open it. I didn't test it. A cross gabled roof has lower side wings, one side with two pitches, and the framing requires the trusses to lay on as a valley set over the center bay scissor trusses. I manually drew the roofs, drew the ceiling planes in the center bay for the scissors envelope, drew the trusses and drew the truss bases. I only get one valley set lay-on before things go bust. Uphill trusses do not generate between the truss base and the roof above, instead form inside the lower roof. See the pics.Bly Mountain basement garage.zip Bly Mountain basement garage.zip

Send to layout and measure the font height and report back please. I don't think you have the font scaled properly for printing. X15 ships out of box with schedule text set to either 4.5" or 6" height, and it is for sending to layout at scale 1/4" = 1'-0". From what you show upthread, you have your schedule text at something called 1". But that is a great tip for reducing (or enlarging) the 3D images of scheduled items. There is nothing from Chief in the manual about this.

Sliding glass doors, actually, any Chief sliding door, have too many problems in 3D modeling, and are best done as sliding windows.

I had a roof frame all done with engineered trusses, then changed it per the client's preference to stickframe. To maintain the same roof geometry and the room ceilings below that was all handled by the truss chords, I drew, platformed atop walls, ceiling joist arrangements, then rafters and a structural ridge. I needed to build atop the ceiling joist "platforms" because of the particular roof geometry. The other end of the building uses 16" i-joist rafters now, in lieu of the parallel chord trusses before. The roof has a big thick look, with 16" rimboard used as subfascia. I manually drew in the ceiling framing, then the rafters and ridge, and used General Framing to place the plate-ups and rafter jack walls I needed. All those parts done with General Framing came into the plan as ID = Subfloor. To make the Material List look right (this is a slab foundation job with no "subfloor") I wanted the framing to be all tallied under the two framing headings, Roof and Framing. I edited the components, but why did I have to. Why does General Framing placed manually come in as Subfloor? Pic attached with a member selected that I had to edit.

Can't comment without the plan. Post it.

Is there a frame?

The photo looks to me like the builder used manufactured stone, something like Cultured Stone, made by Owens Corning. Since that product and others in the same class are applied with adhesive to the wall, there is no foundation with brick ledge under. Use a material region for the stone veneer, and a molding for the "wall cap" run above the stone. I'd suggest a visit to OC's website, and others, like Coronado, to study their installation instructions, so you can learn the details, and best use Chief to model this, exactly how it gets built.

If you want your text in the schedule to display at 3/32" height on a printed sheet, your character height needs to be 4.5". If you want it at 1/8" height, the character height should be 6". Why aren't you using your Schedule Text Size in your schedule? I have one set to character height 4.5", and use it for the Main, Title, and Header in schedules.

I just opened a new X15 plan and set roof and framing defaults. See below. It is in the roof defaults as seen here, where the roof pitch is set, and entering a pitch, Chief shows us the calculated structure depth (heel height), for the rafter size (in the case of trusses, set the rafter size for top chord size, mine is set to 3.5). I set pitch at 5, Chief calculates and shows the vertical structure depth of 3 13/16, so I set that as the heel height. Drawing a truss gives expected results. The top chord passes over the plate and intersects it at the out corner. I may be unskilled at Chief in many aspects of roof lore, but I don't believe you can change the roof pitch to 6 or whatever different from 5, and have Chief auto gen the roof to give the same result (top chord intersect). It is not a one-field entry and go. You gotta go a tiny bit deeper. Select Build Roof, enter your new desired pitch, hit TAB, and Chief will show you what the vert struct is for your 2x4 rafter (i.e. truss top chord). Enter that into the heel height field. Click OK. Chief gens a new set of roof planes. Any trusses you placed at the previous pitch can be auto gen'd and you will get your desired config as re the top chord plate intersect. You must build where you don't have to do much ceiling insulation. Sometimes Chief ain't as automatic as we might like.

Looks like CG Trader and Turbosquid have some. $29 and maybe up. Problem is you won't know how well things look in Chief until you buy and import.

New to X15

I forget. Could we offset in X14. Newell can answer.

This, railings with newels and balusters affixed to deck rims, has been addressed before, more than once. There are easy workarounds involving invisible railing walls and other tricks. Do a search but use good search terms like deck fascia.

I find clients get far too interested, too nit-picky, and distracted, in the details of 3D fixtures, and so only include items they have hard-spec'd with make and model info. Kohler number this, Hans Grohe number that. Any vehicle I place in a render, I want to be stripped of texture and detail so as to look as totally generic as possible, and I emphasize that it is there to demonstrate size fit for space. "That doesn't look like ours. The dish on top isn't right. Our colors are a different green." I don't want that. Let's focus on the building design. But to do garage mahals for clients that have a couple million in vehicle value in them, and they want to see the glitz, their real cars, you send photos and details to the 3D whiz guys over on the other side of the planet, the guys that will model anything you want, to do the Lambos and special edition 911s they wanted to see in their "ultimate garages." That outside work expense is added to the bill. For the client that is getting an RV barn with a side bay for cookout parties, I do an RV that looks pretty Lego, no textures, no details, just a box on wheels with some glass in front.

Here is a 2017 Tiffin Allegro for free at the 3D Whse. https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/ba1a6135-e0fd-4799-8353-9ec9fcc9b6f0/2018-Tiffin-Allegro-Bus-Class-A-motorhome-RV Resize it after the import keeping aspect ratio and length = 34'3"

Can the client that bought and owns one pay your fee including the cost of the symbol?

Home Designer has its own forum. This is Chief Architect Premier, and most of us are clueless as to how HD works.

Now draw the dormers, and frame it with trusses, and see if the truss designer can make it happen. Those dormers are false, and can either be lick-and-sticked right onto the sheathing, or used for cool light shaft effects, think skylights with windows and roofs. Go on YouTube and watch the framers build these kind of false dormers. Fun to watch. Fun to do.

Plenty of residential designs have this arrangement. A one-story arrangement, flat ceilings in the side wings where beds and baths and laundry and whatnot go, and a tall vaulted ceiling over the open-plan where kitchen dining living entertaining happens. See the section here. The entire roof is bearing on 9 foot walls, and the vault is handled with scissors trusses. For purposes of drawing the roof planes, and generating truss envelopes in the flat-ceiling areas, the 9-foot wall (room) height is proper, but my tiny little issue is in the center bay when drawing the upper windows in the gables. In the pic you can see where the 9/0 elevation intersects all those upper windows, the side traps, and the lowers of the center group. That means the windows have elevation specs for their bottoms and tops relating to a second floor which is not there. Elevations like -11 1/2" at the window bottoms. Is it best practice to draw a second floor and specify the center bay with the ceiling vault as open below? Doing this has no effect on the model, as it is all roofed as needed, and windows are all placed where wanted. Con docs can roll out just fine. Framing elevations will be done to specify how the openings are framed, so windows get installed per the design. But I was thinking, is open below any kind of aid for doing the modeling? To place and size the uppers, I took sections like shown here, used CAD to define the shapes, and placed windows snapping to the CAD, and using measurements from CAD lines to modify the "arch" shapes with tops parallel to ceiling. The windows are right there where they belong, but open one, and the elevations for sill and head look hinky.