GeneDavis

I had a roof frame all done with engineered trusses, then changed it per the client's preference to stickframe. To maintain the same roof geometry and the room ceilings below that was all handled by the truss chords, I drew, platformed atop walls, ceiling joist arrangements, then rafters and a structural ridge. I needed to build atop the ceiling joist "platforms" because of the particular roof geometry. The other end of the building uses 16" i-joist rafters now, in lieu of the parallel chord trusses before. The roof has a big thick look, with 16" rimboard used as subfascia. I manually drew in the ceiling framing, then the rafters and ridge, and used General Framing to place the plate-ups and rafter jack walls I needed. All those parts done with General Framing came into the plan as ID = Subfloor. To make the Material List look right (this is a slab foundation job with no "subfloor") I wanted the framing to be all tallied under the two framing headings, Roof and Framing. I edited the components, but why did I have to. Why does General Framing placed manually come in as Subfloor? Pic attached with a member selected that I had to edit.

Can't comment without the plan. Post it.

Is there a frame?

The photo looks to me like the builder used manufactured stone, something like Cultured Stone, made by Owens Corning. Since that product and others in the same class are applied with adhesive to the wall, there is no foundation with brick ledge under. Use a material region for the stone veneer, and a molding for the "wall cap" run above the stone. I'd suggest a visit to OC's website, and others, like Coronado, to study their installation instructions, so you can learn the details, and best use Chief to model this, exactly how it gets built.

If you want your text in the schedule to display at 3/32" height on a printed sheet, your character height needs to be 4.5". If you want it at 1/8" height, the character height should be 6". Why aren't you using your Schedule Text Size in your schedule? I have one set to character height 4.5", and use it for the Main, Title, and Header in schedules.

I just opened a new X15 plan and set roof and framing defaults. See below. It is in the roof defaults as seen here, where the roof pitch is set, and entering a pitch, Chief shows us the calculated structure depth (heel height), for the rafter size (in the case of trusses, set the rafter size for top chord size, mine is set to 3.5). I set pitch at 5, Chief calculates and shows the vertical structure depth of 3 13/16, so I set that as the heel height. Drawing a truss gives expected results. The top chord passes over the plate and intersects it at the out corner. I may be unskilled at Chief in many aspects of roof lore, but I don't believe you can change the roof pitch to 6 or whatever different from 5, and have Chief auto gen the roof to give the same result (top chord intersect). It is not a one-field entry and go. You gotta go a tiny bit deeper. Select Build Roof, enter your new desired pitch, hit TAB, and Chief will show you what the vert struct is for your 2x4 rafter (i.e. truss top chord). Enter that into the heel height field. Click OK. Chief gens a new set of roof planes. Any trusses you placed at the previous pitch can be auto gen'd and you will get your desired config as re the top chord plate intersect. You must build where you don't have to do much ceiling insulation. Sometimes Chief ain't as automatic as we might like.

Looks like CG Trader and Turbosquid have some. $29 and maybe up. Problem is you won't know how well things look in Chief until you buy and import.

New to X15

I forget. Could we offset in X14. Newell can answer.

This, railings with newels and balusters affixed to deck rims, has been addressed before, more than once. There are easy workarounds involving invisible railing walls and other tricks. Do a search but use good search terms like deck fascia.

I find clients get far too interested, too nit-picky, and distracted, in the details of 3D fixtures, and so only include items they have hard-spec'd with make and model info. Kohler number this, Hans Grohe number that. Any vehicle I place in a render, I want to be stripped of texture and detail so as to look as totally generic as possible, and I emphasize that it is there to demonstrate size fit for space. "That doesn't look like ours. The dish on top isn't right. Our colors are a different green." I don't want that. Let's focus on the building design. But to do garage mahals for clients that have a couple million in vehicle value in them, and they want to see the glitz, their real cars, you send photos and details to the 3D whiz guys over on the other side of the planet, the guys that will model anything you want, to do the Lambos and special edition 911s they wanted to see in their "ultimate garages." That outside work expense is added to the bill. For the client that is getting an RV barn with a side bay for cookout parties, I do an RV that looks pretty Lego, no textures, no details, just a box on wheels with some glass in front.

Here is a 2017 Tiffin Allegro for free at the 3D Whse. https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/ba1a6135-e0fd-4799-8353-9ec9fcc9b6f0/2018-Tiffin-Allegro-Bus-Class-A-motorhome-RV Resize it after the import keeping aspect ratio and length = 34'3"

Can the client that bought and owns one pay your fee including the cost of the symbol?

Home Designer has its own forum. This is Chief Architect Premier, and most of us are clueless as to how HD works.

Now draw the dormers, and frame it with trusses, and see if the truss designer can make it happen. Those dormers are false, and can either be lick-and-sticked right onto the sheathing, or used for cool light shaft effects, think skylights with windows and roofs. Go on YouTube and watch the framers build these kind of false dormers. Fun to watch. Fun to do.

Plenty of residential designs have this arrangement. A one-story arrangement, flat ceilings in the side wings where beds and baths and laundry and whatnot go, and a tall vaulted ceiling over the open-plan where kitchen dining living entertaining happens. See the section here. The entire roof is bearing on 9 foot walls, and the vault is handled with scissors trusses. For purposes of drawing the roof planes, and generating truss envelopes in the flat-ceiling areas, the 9-foot wall (room) height is proper, but my tiny little issue is in the center bay when drawing the upper windows in the gables. In the pic you can see where the 9/0 elevation intersects all those upper windows, the side traps, and the lowers of the center group. That means the windows have elevation specs for their bottoms and tops relating to a second floor which is not there. Elevations like -11 1/2" at the window bottoms. Is it best practice to draw a second floor and specify the center bay with the ceiling vault as open below? Doing this has no effect on the model, as it is all roofed as needed, and windows are all placed where wanted. Con docs can roll out just fine. Framing elevations will be done to specify how the openings are framed, so windows get installed per the design. But I was thinking, is open below any kind of aid for doing the modeling? To place and size the uppers, I took sections like shown here, used CAD to define the shapes, and placed windows snapping to the CAD, and using measurements from CAD lines to modify the "arch" shapes with tops parallel to ceiling. The windows are right there where they belong, but open one, and the elevations for sill and head look hinky.

Draw a roof just for the patio with its own needed framing spec.

Begin here, learn how to create a two-pitch roof. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-01111/creating-a-dickey-roof.html

The pic posted by the OP in post 1 has the three dormers with their shingled front faces all in the same plane, and it looks like the same plane as the wall in which the entry door is under the porch. The dormers poke out from a steeply pitched roof (I drew my mockup as an 11-pitch) and the porch roof is quite shallow, more like a 2/12. Look at the pic closely and you can see the gabled overhangs of the large central dormer resolving down onto that 2/12 porch roof. The spaces inside behind those dormers don't make sense, in the mockup I did, which leads me to think those dormers are purely deco. False dormers. Done all the time. Expensive.

All windows have frames. You want a frame with a negative inset equal to sheathing t + siding t + proud where proud is how far you want frame to project beyond siding. I did a project with Andersen 100 Series windows, like vinyl windows except Andersen extrudes their Fibrex mat'l instead of PVC, and unchecked "frame match wall depth" or whatever it's called. Frames were 1.75 x 3.25, inset -1.875, sash 1.375 x 2.25. Sash inset 1/8". If you are doing simple drywall returns inside Chief gives OK 3D. Not so much if you are gonna wood-trim those windows inside. Check my thread in Suggestions about all this window 3D stuff.

Open the window spec dialog, look at the height and width. Those are the window unit's h x w. Frame h x frame w. You don't specify a window size by it's out to outs on the casings. Go to your dimension defaults for whichever one you want to use to dimension to casings. You'll see where to place your checkmark to have Chief pick up casings when pulling dimensions. Try it and report back.

Manually edit. It'll take less than a minute. Edit the plane at plan left to cover everything the other floor 1 planes do, then delete those other planes

The 24 x 24 grid was requested by the builder and I did a plan view just for that, using CAD for the grid and dimensioning. Whether that tight or something else, you're going to do sawcuts to control the eventual cracking. The placing contractor and the polisher contractor work hand in hand, and for this job, drove 2.5 hours to get to the site. No other options. You'll want to talk to whoever is going to do it. It's not much different than terrazzo work, and where I am in SW FL all that is done inside, fully weathered in. They can those big twin-pad units close to walls and corners, and they finish with hand units. It's a great look, far better than stained 'crete.

Here is a good article about it. https://aicoat.com/polished-concrete-the-complete-guide/ I did the plans for a wood-framed house that got this floor finish on its basement slab and the main (wood framed) floor. Built in cold snow country, with radiant heat pex tubing in both slab on grade and the topping slabs, the polishing work took away only about 1/8" of the top, so I had no concern about specifying more thickness than "normal." It is up to your client, the owner, to view samples and specify the level of cut to achieve the desired look, and the polish (800 grit, 2000 grit, or whatever). The article describes the different looks achieved by depth of cut, and also the level of polish determined by the pad grit. That info is the only thing I would put on plans. The plans included the layout for the sawcut scoring, 24" centers both ways. This happens right away after initial cure, and the cuts are vacuumed clean of dust and debris and immediately filled with an expandible sealant, color matched to the 'crete. This, prior to the grinding and polishing. I left it to the builder to work with his concrete sub for placement and polishing to specify the mix, colorants, aggregate, and any screeding and troweling techniques. For the wood-framed main floor, the pour depth was 3 inches, all the exterior walls, got bottom triple-plated with 2x pressure treated lumber before the pour, the unbuilt interior wall plates (bottom two only) functioning as screeds. What material did you use for your floor texture in the Chief model you show?

Before I try a test model: 2x purlins flatwise on trusses? 2x girts on sidewalls applied flatwise on poles?