Charlie

Thanks Mike. I am doing a lot of porches lately - those were both last week, so getting them out fast is becoming a priority. I gave up using rail walls and use the 1" thick blank wall for a room definition and contain the window/screens. I may add a rail inside the 1" wall if required, but I will set it at no room definition or bring one in as a symbol. I use a slab over the floor for concrete floors. The frame one has the deck overhang increased to come out to the posts. I may play with the lite setting on my windows - I do miss the look of screen in vector views. Seems like there used to be limit on how many lites one could put in a window - maybe they have increased that.

Years ago we used to do all kinds of things with window lites. I forget who it was, but he was making all kids of things with windows and grille configurations. This was back in version 3 or so. For screen porches now, I use a 1" thick wall, white color material and insert windows with no casing and a screen material for the glass. I make my own posts and beams. Works pretty well.

I use 3D molding polylines for downspouts generated in the elevation. Quick and flexible. A little tough to find/select in plan, though

That works really well, Bill.

FYI - 1898 Victorian

Note the windows at top of page - 84" x 86" 1/1/ DH, headed at 108". Insane. Main stairwell pretty assume, too. Nice house in general, big bowed wall in front.

Nice stuff - good work. Off topic, but relevant - how we measure a job -

Nice. Someone has probably built that. It sure lets one do some crazy stuff.

This does work well - made a quick arcade wall.

I saw that and played with it for a bit, but could not get quite right. I will explore it some more. Definitely quick and easy and would work 99% of the time perfectly well.

The wall material region is nice - having issues getting it to recess into the wall, though. Seems to just want to work on the surface. I was after this recess as shown here - these are 2 separate wall types with the window spanning them.

Those are nice - thanks for the tip.

Never played with those much - I will have to try it.

Give you all something to ponder.

It is there - look at the jpeg. Just showing off.

I know this is tough and can't be done. Except for this -

Swamped.. Down to 10 active jobs for now.

You convert to symbol from a 3D view of the building you want to import. All the materials will go into it automatically.

It will work - trust us.

I usually turn the buildings into symbols (you may want to turn off interior items to reduce the size of the model) then bring it into the terrain plan and position as required. I would not add the symbol to your library - they can be huge. This is a carriage house w/ a symbol of the existing house in the background.

Thanks. Yes, it is technical with white for the warm color and grey for the cool color and a light line weight and then I toggle off the color. Looks great, but it can be a little slower in 3D.

I just did a deck over a roof and not easy since CA will not allow a room over a roof plane. Existing conditions, so I had to model it as is. Done with a separate deck model that is turned int a symbol and brought in over the roof.

I do a ton of historic stuff. Lot of brick homes - we switch to hardie siding, mostly, kick it in 4 inches or so. .

When you do a two story addition on an out of plumb house, you will be glad you offset it.

Yes, The technical illustration camera - I am using that exclusively, now.