keithhe

I would love to join the Tommy Club, but both times I tried I was unsuccessful. My guess is that down in Texan/Cowboy areas they do not take kindly to we Redskins..... Might be wrong.

I really need to start doing Thea more. Seems silly to have it and the RT's are awesome, as seen in Jonathan's example

There is the "default" tile backsplash between upper and lowers. Nice guys.

When is X7 ??

Agreed. Scott's idea is perfect.

Maybe a font CA can't deal with?? No idea if this is even possible, but thought I'd throw that out there.

Michael, I tried that approach early on too. I like using radius circles from multiple points to find absolute intersections of otherwise hard to find spots. That did not work for me, in this case, but will test it once I have thee points in and house the way I think it is supposed to be.

Check your dimension defaults. Might have too big a set for what you are doing.

Richard, This has absolutely nothing to do with the legal aspects of the drawing, in any way. This is simply now, as I already had it as close as would ever need to be with help from the gallery here, an exercise in methods to solve a problem. I, like others here, thought there was not enough information given, but given just what was provided, it can be done quite accurately.

Well, The OCD in me would not leave this alone. I'm not quite there yet but with 2 of three points attached, I'm within 1/4 inch of the last point. Not close enough, I know, but working on it.... Simply drew the boundary, with setback known. Blocked that. Then from the drawing of the house, I used the brick corners as I suspect surveyor would have and paced CAD points on the three points. Connected points with CAD lines and copy/paste into the CAD Detail with property boundaries. Then a little rotate and point to point moves and two of three there, third point 1/4 inch out. I'm shooting for 1/8 inch, or less then I can sleep nights... See attached

Wishing now I had not slept through the hipopotonuse part in school. Educabation is a good thing.....

Thanks Richard, and noted. Just always looking at methods to solve any problem. This is just a side project now, as you folks helped get as close as I would ever need for normal purposes.

Thanks Jim, Richard and all the rest of you guys !!! This works fine, but I'm hell bent on seeing if there is some mathematical, geometry method to this equation. I think there might be, but I'm one of those people that will die trying to figure something out... Thanks again all !!!

I think I am Jim. I found the "Plot Plan 2" layer, but nothing except the house footprint shows up under any of the layer sets?? I don't have a CAD Details Layer or a "Site Plan" layer, but checked the plot plan, footprint etc.. I must still be missing something here. OK, just found it. Wow, I really still suck at this program....

Jim, I tried that, but I think I screwed it up as I'm not good enough with the CAD lines to make it work. I tried to make a CAD block of the lot boundaries, with offsets, but could not get them to block together to do what you suggested.

I still think there is a mathematical way to figure this out, with just information given, but I'm simply not smart enough to know how to do that. I hate losing to a dead, RIP, surveyor, who if still alive I would have considered killing. Will deny all of this in a court of law, if it turns out that Mark was murdered. It was not me. I have a couple of friends that are both MIT grads, so I will toss it at them and see if they got their moneys worth.

Jim, Even with all layers on, there is nothing but the house footprint showing??

Robert, I had looked at the county GIS site and although interesting, is not accurate. See attached, where the south corner is measured (per GIS site) at about 15' from property line (red line added). Simply not the case here. The property line on the south side also shows straight on GIS, where in reality there is a pretty substantial turn from street to the north some 255' east up the line.

OK, This is not good news......

Alan and Tommy, As far as I can tell, this is a legal survey for owner house purchase. Mind you that not pertinent information (neighbor name information) has been redacted, but otherwise wet sealed by surveyor. I may try to call surveyor. Scott, I guess I'm glad that it was not just me that could not wrap my head around this. The property boundary lines work out perfect, just not enough information for me to accurately place house, but like Gerry, I can get very close. I tried that technique and radius of cad circles from the house corners. I expect there is a some mathematical formula to get this triangle (essentially the three house points make up a known distance on all three sides) where is can (in theory) only touch the lot lines in one configuration. I think I need a CRAY computer, or something.

I'd move whatever I had to, but can't figure out a way to do a point to point move on three positions at the same time? The problem is the perpendicular lines from lot lines (specific lengths to specific connections on house), need to essentially be simultaneously moved or you just turn and twist and back and forth, but never really get there. I get close, but not all three. I think it would have helped immensely if the surveyor had provided a ordinate from the house to a point somewhere on the lot line with a distance. But the house is not parallel to any of the lot lines, it's kind of twisted. Had a ordinate, and a distance say from back flat wall to either side been provided, it would be pretty easy to get that to work. I suspect there is some brilliant way to get this done, but I don't want to cheese ball it like trying to scale up the plat to measure out. I think there is a technique I just can't think of.

I have done plenty of plot plans via owner plats before, or official government survey records, but finally hit a brick wall. Not sure why this one is giving me so much trouble, s there is plenty to go on, I just can't get house to position correctly. There has to be a trick here I'm missing. The ordinate lines all work fine, as per attached plat. No issues setting up the property lines. Getting the house positioned is another story. Surveyor shows what I believe are three perpendicular distances, from ordinate lines to specific points on the corners of house. OK, seems straight forward, but to save my life I can not get all the pieces to set up correctly. That is, I can't get the house where surveyor says it is. The reason for the topic title is I can't find the starting point for the ordinate series without first having some idea of where any of the 5 points are on it. I can input lines from random points and get it drawn, but where is it, in reality I have no idea. Turning the plat changes everything. Moving the house messes up two specific walls on bay window of master bedroom. They are exactly correct now, but Chief wants to realign them and remove two very small direction change walls on the bay. Plan and Plat attached Ideas welcome. Thanks, Keith As Built.plan Plat 2.pdf

Robert, Thanks that was it. Can't believe I mistook the half wall as a wall rather than a newel that clearly it is. Odd, never knew that. Thanks... Dennis, What is the pro's cons to your way? Not sure I understand. The radio buttons say "Use Floor Finish" and "Auto Adjust Height". I deselected both and they jumped up t where they were before. Use floor finish, means terrain height? Robert, OK, looking at it, even zoomed way in, looks like all is aligned, but see connection issue. I moved the interior (yellow) wall 1/32" west and the 3D looks right, but zoomed in looks like a misconnect at the walls. Not sure I get that.

Really frustrating some of the really stupid stuff I need to ask for help on, but.... here I go again. On plan, attached, there are two "half wall issues" and one wall connection issue. First, there is a half wall on this as-built separating the kitchen from living room. Another between Jacuzzi and sinks in master bath. In both cases I can't get them any higher than they are, which is shorter than I need. Kitchen half wall should be 45" from floor (0") the master bath one 45.75" fro floor. What ami I missing where they don't go higher, despite entering the height in dbx? Other wall issue is a connection anomaly. The exterior walls intersection with interior wall to right of front door leaves one of those "see through wall" connections in bedroom on other side of wall. They look to be aligned, have tried repeatedly to disconnect, reconnect with same result. Again, I expect user error here, but can't get me to tell me what the error is. Ideas? Also, a weird thing happened on the way to adding the shutters front of house. When I added the terrain, they all dropped down? They appear to be directly linked to terrain height. Never seen that one before, and no idea if that is normal or not. Thanks guys..... Keith Keith As Built.plan

Yes, but that won't change your actual speeds, just pings a server closer or further away. "closer = faster / further = slower" That being said, these speed tests are just a close proximity to what you actually "can" get. You ISP will have their node out to the web, generally within 10-20 miles tops from where you live. For the tests, just hit the closest listed ping city. Lots of things can cause a bottle neck, to include the modem from the cable company, if you have cable. Unless you own your own, and you can if you want, you are renting that from them monthly. If you are supposed to get xx Mb down and xx Mb up, and you are not getting that, take it back and get the newest model. These change all the time and they will not offer it unless you complain. Next up in the bottle neck might be your router. Unless you are the only 'puter on your local intranet (stuff connected to the net in your house) you will have one of these. Typical might be a D-Link or Sysco wired/wireless usually with about 4 hard wire RJ45 jacks out the back. Fasted these days is the 802.11 N or 802.11 ac. Trust me, these are faster than anything being offered by your cable company, regardless of what you are getting now. If you have an ancient router like 802.11 b for example, time to drop a buck and get a new one. You can come out of you router to a switch, offered in a variety of jacks from 4-16 and more. Most these days are gigabyte speeds, which is way faster than your ISP is providing and only matter on your intranet (the inter home communication stuff) I, for example, go from my cable modem, to the router, than to a switch. From the switch, I have hard wired CAT 5 to each primary location in house where there is a TV. Behind my main TV, in living room I have 7 devices that connect to the net. So I have a 8 port switch behind there and individually each device is wired to that sub switch. So, start at the beginning and work your way forward. One way, for those with cable, is to simply plug a computer directly into their modem (similar for FIOS by the way) and do a speed test from there. That eliminates all the other stuff. Then same thing at the router, and so on. I'd be disappointed in most of the speeds many here are getting but would be thrilled with Ben's speed. I'm about 50-55 down and about 15 up, give or take. Recall, too, depending on how far you are from your node, time of day and day of week can influence your speed. Middle of the day (weekday) is going to be faster than a Friday night when all the kids are home on line and folks are streaming. Might not be a big change, but can be different.