TheKitchenAbode

Shouldn't be an issue. A materials texture is separate from it's colour. You should just be able to use that evil paint can and spray it. I have found stained woods the most difficult to accurately represent. Everything is spec'd back to the manufacturers sample. Also, every wood species will take the stain differently and woods with an inherent colour such as Cherry will also influence the stains colour as does the application technique. For cabinetry a sample is either available or we have one made to show that stain on that species of wood, client then signs-off. Graham

Seems to be some confusion on my part. On the main forum the identifier says "Answered" but within the post it says "Best Answer". The forum should be consistent. If it really is Answered then the original poster would be correct as they are indicating that their question has been answered even if it was by them. If it really means "Best" Answer then this is correct but not sure it has the same meaning. Just thought I should clarify my comment above. No intent to question the "Humble" in HumbleChief. Graham

Did you just mark your own answer as "Best Answer" to your own question? I know it was not your intent, but this is not really fair. We could all get a lot of points by just posting questions for which we already know the answer and then posting the answer. On second thought maybe that's not a bad idea!!! Graham

I just use any hardwood flooring from the catalogs and then apply the a finish to it. Not sure there is a need to start with a raw wood. For a really good selection of hardwood flooring try the ones in the Armstrong Manufacture Catalog. For regular sheet type woods I often use the Formica samples. Also some of the cabinet manufactures have raw woods in their catalogs but they are not for flooring. Graham

Hi Mick - Just checked mine the general default is auto on mine. Checked the program tab and Chief is not listed. I guess I have to add this in manually. Will do so and see if this makes a noticeable difference. Thanks for the direction, Graham

Perry - That was the same for me. The only change that I am very suspicious of is the addition of the ability to adjust core (thread) optimization in Preferences Raytrace in X7. I may be wrong but I think a lot of new graphics drivers are also incorporating some type of thread optimization. Maybe there is a conflict between the Chief threading method and the graphics driver method. This could explain why downgrading my driver resolved my lag issue, the older driver may not have had any thread optimization coding and therefore no conflict. Graham

Thanks everyone for the support. I enjoy the humor but please do not hesitate to let me know when to tone it down. I have attached the explanation for creating a molding that you can predict and control the recessing effect. The shape in the explanation is in the attached library file. Many other shapes can be quickly and easily created once one gets familiar with the concept. Until Chief provides the option within a DBX to move a molding in this plane I think this could be a suitable method for those needing to do so. Graham Buck Sample Molding.calibz

I know this goes against the popular belief but for myself I had a similar lag effect with X7 and the resolution was to downgrade my display driver to an earlier version. This resolved the issue. Through a lot of searching I discovered a significant amount of commentary on these display drives along with revision updates. In a nut shell, updates do not necessarily contain core performance improvements especially if your card is several versions old. The display driver people have taken a one driver suits all approach and therefore the revision changes may only be applicable to newer generation graphics boards or to accommodate some specific game. They usually publish update release notes so you can see what the major changes are. In my situation I had the most recent Nvidia driver for my GTX 650 Ti. I went back and found the earliest official Nvidia driver (released in 2012) for this card and installed it, lag was gone. It's worth a try as it only takes a few minutes to do. Graham

Hi Scott, Just curious as to the particular aspects of this that do not meet the requirements for this task. My question is not related to which method best suits your needs. Just wondering if I misunderstood the core requirements. Please ignore my attempt to be funny at the start of the post, will reframe from this in the future. Many Thanks, Graham

Posted my technique under this new post heading. Hope you find it interesting. https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/5142-introducing-my-bucking-molding/ Graham

Appreciate the "Vote" in confidence however this should most likely go to Perry and/or Dennis. Pleased your problem was resolved, Graham

ATTENTION! Down loading the attached plan constitutes acceptance of the following conditions. I promise to fully evaluate the technique from a potential use perspective versus how it can’t be used. Criticisms shall be professional & courteous as I the Down Loader am a Professional Chiefter. All criticism must end with a positive comment of equal value. Praise if any shall use terms such as “Wow”, “Cool”, “Unbelievable” or the likes. Just Kidding It is the sole responsibility of the Down Loader to determine the suitability of this in accordance with their particular requirements. No warranties are expressed or implied. Use at your own risk. This is the first time sending a plan. Please let me know if it does not come through properly. Will forward library molding example profiles soon. This is an X7 plan Have Fun !!! Graham Hopefully this will not be an anticlimactic introduction Abode_Bucking Molding.zip

There appears to be a slight jog (offset) in the wall to the left of the exposed brick versus the right side, shows at the baseboard. Maybe this is required or as Dennis suggests the wall sections are not connecting properly. Also, is the main interior wall with the door openings an actual interior wall type or did you just extend the exterior wall through and change the cladding finish. For myself I usually draw all the exterior walls first and then go in and attach/position the interior walls. Graham

You have my full agreement 200%. I have been very consistent in many of my postings that the validity of any proposed technique is for the end user to determine. There is no such thing as perfect, it's only some undefined term relative to what we have or know at this particular point in time. Graham

Not sure about X5 but in X7 you can find it in Edit-Snap Settings - Bumping/Pushing or F11. Graham

Thanks Yusuf. It is always best to face ones fears. Just like to be prepared before stepping into the arena. Many Thanks, Graham

Hi Perry, Yes I know, saw your plan. However this only works if the window is set into a separate wall sized and set in from the main exterior wall face to create the recess. Have done this before. How does this method allow you to create the finished buck if the wall depth is say 10" and the window is recessed through the window DBX back say 5" into that wall only and you can't adjust the exterior finish thickness to cover up the exposed framing & sheathing. Personally I like the casing/molding approach and as such I focused my efforts on how to make this work without the need to construct a special wall or do 5 additional things just to relocate or resize the window. Essentially this buck is just one of many ways that stucco/EFIS systems are being detailed around openings. Just cleaning up the plan and will make it available so you can see the technique. Graham

It's the latter part of this statement that I fear the most. Graham

GlennW That is one of the techniques that has been thoroughly debated along with building a single framed width wall with a pass-through opening and then placing another slimmer wall section into the opening for the window. Though these work there appears to be two major issues. The method of construction, especially in the double wall approach is not the most practical or efficient. The other drawback with both methods is the amount of work involved to execute changes, not so bad if it is only one window that needs to be altered but what if many windows need to be shifted. With normal windows you simply drag and resize the window. Both of the proposed methods require framing adjustments, not just window adjustments. The teaser I'm suggesting is window only based, no need to adjust framing whatsoever. Drag, drop, resize exactly the same as one already does. Can be done on any window. Will try to post plan by end of day. Graham

Here's another take on this "BUCKING" challenge. Why not use a casing? See attached pics. These standard windows are placed in a regular wall, framing can be set to any depth, exterior stucco finish can be set to any thickness. Windows are adjusted by the DBX for desired inset into wall. I have used a casing/molding to create the stucco return from the exterior surface to the window along with the vertical lip. Depth of casing into the recess and buck width can be adjusted in window casing DBX. Window including cased buck can be relocated and resized same as any window. The casing will cover any exposed materials if the window is recessed beyond the exterior finish depth. This eliminates the need to build two facing walls, one for the window and then one with a pass-through. Details are not restricted to just a simple recess return as can be seen in the 2nd pic which shows the casing both recessed into the wall cavity and protruding from the wall face. This may not be the perfect solution as there are always some limitations but it is somewhat unique and could be used in many other ways. How was this done and how does it work? Please keep in mind that it is just a casing/molding. Will post plan with details later once I clean things up and add notes. Graham

Sorry about that, get too excited about my potential resolution, often hit "post" before proof reading. I have found this to happen in other tasks, especially when objects or elements are attached together or there are objects within the same plane. Suspect that this is the culprit when using that Spray Can. Chief cannot discern one object for the other, sometimes it gets both and other times it just gets the foreground or background object. Graham

Doug - I didn't have the backwards window issue that you are experiencing in the JC model. I placed the window in the interior wall section and the pass-through in the exterior section. Maybe its the order in which the model is being built. I built the interior 2 x 4 section first and placed the window in it. Then I built the left & right side 2 x 8 walls. Then built the exterior 2 x 4 section separately away from the other walls. Inserted the pass-through and then moved the section into place in front of the window. could be that if you construct the walls first that Chief sees the exterior 2 x 4 section as the place for the window and the interior section as the place for the pass-through. Just a thought. Graham

This is getting complicated, just imagine what it will take to settle on the royalties split. Here's my reasoning. When I saw the pic from Scott all of the exterior walls were double framed 2 x 4, kind of a chase wall without the chase. I thought from a framing point of view that it would be more applicable to only double frame where the window section would be. All other walls would be shown as 2 x 8. Material schedules would then be more accurate. Graham

Good point Michael - If those spray can settings aren't right you can end up with some unexpected results. Client won't be overly impressed. Cheers, Graham

Sorry Joe - I didn't read all of the posts. Can I be the co-author for the additional detail and in mentioning the pass-through? Graham