Joe_Carrick

Try it I'm pretty sure it will need at least 2 layers but I'm not sure it requires a framing layer.

I've found a product "proVent" that installs between the rafters. Seems like a simpler detail.

When there's insulation in the ceiling and also between the rafters, how is the "Vent Baffle" detailed to insure the clear space for air flow? Does anyone have a detail or specification to handle this ?

You will need to ask your Building Dept.

If you make the Horse Stall using a Post to Beam Railing Wall......Then you should be able to place the Barn Door in that wall. However, you will actually have to place a "Hinged Door" and then change the "Door Type" to "Barn" because Chief doesn't allow direct placement of Barn Doors in Railing Walls. IMO this is a BUG! Then edit the door height, and width to suit.

Here's a sample using my method showing what can be done just by adjusting the dimensions of the Panels. For the Panel above the Window I just changed it to the "Window Headers" layer so it wouldn't show in the Floor Plan.

No, there aren't any "shortcuts" but once you have the Chamfered Concrete Panels in the Library you will never have to create them again. Also, defined as Symbols you can change the materials, sizes, etc and include them in a Schedule. I save the Solids used to create the Panel Symbols as a special plan so I can easily create variations for unique panels with other indentations. I have a couple with recessed horizontal bands. You will also want to set their "drawing level" to something less than "Walls" so they will block the wall in Plan View. If you place one panel in a wall you can then transform/replicate to place many panels, spaced so the caulk shows between the panels. As a matter of preference, I place all doors windows and other openings in the "Caulk Walls" before placing and sizing the Panels. I've done several Tilt-up Buildings using this technique and it really works quite well. Once you get the system set up you'll find it's really quick & easy on subsequent projects. Don't forget to create a Template Plan.

I would make one layer "Caulk Walls" (the thickness of the panels minus the chamfers) and then superimpose 3D Concrete Panel Symbols. It's basically the same way I build Log Walls. This is a very specific way of modeling a structure. In the case of Concrete Tilt-up Construction I would make the Panels with stretch planes at: x = 0 mm y = -40 mm z= 100 mm so that I could stretch them in any direction to match the design. Note, I only work with Imperial units so my stretch planes would be x = 0" y = -3" z = 12" But you get the idea. The Panels would be centered on the "Caulk Walls". Doors and Windows can be inserted into the "Caulk Walls". That way you only need to place the Panels as needed.

Exactly. Another possibility would be to specify a -3" height 6" wide curb. I'm not sure if that would work but maybe.....

Actually, I also measure to the exterior (wall dimension line). I didn't mean to imply the "Finish Face". The Exterior Room Polyline will provide this.

This is the problem with using "Floor Level 0" as the "Walkout Basement". If you insert another Floor and make "Floor Level 1" the "Walkout Basement" you will be able to add the Pony Wall to "Floor Level 0" which should be reserved as the "Foundation". Using this scenario: Floor Level 0 = "Foundation" Floor Level 1 = "Walkout Basement" Floor Level 2 = "1st / Main Floor" Floor Level 3 = "2nd / Upper Floor" I also have another Floor below the "Attic" which is usually just 1/16" tall but allows rooms to be defined at that level.

Are you really still using X8? I would have no idea what was capable back then.

Living Area may be different for a variety of reasons: Unspecified space (shafts, etc) are not included as "Living Area" Garages, etc are not included as "Living Area" Standard Area is a better representation of the area of a building - it's typically measured to the exterior face of the walls. OTOH, using 2D CAD Polylines as the object to use for area when performing FAR, Site Coverage, Impermeable/Permeable, etc gives you much more flexibility. That way you can easily match what might have been indicated by an assessor or surveyor.

Maybe because of a setting in the Stair Default ? I'm just guessing

Share on Dropbox or Google Drive?

Another thing you can try is selecting the railing that's a double line and then continuing it back to the exterior wall. This should replace the single line railing.

Post the Plan

Is that wall marked as "Invisible"?

Don't drop the ceiling height of the Garage. There are 3 basic solutions: Create a "Ceiling Plane" at the desired height instead. Adjust the Floor construction to include an air gap below the framing. Make the Ceiling Finish include an air gap and ceiling joists. Ther may be other things to consider depending on the location of the Garage and Kitchen. Posting the plan would help.

I don't know if that's possible or not. I don't see why it couldn't be done but I suspect it wouldn't be cheap. In my case I was developing cataracts so I really needed to have the proceedure.

I got the "Smart Lens Implants", correction for distance & for 24"-48" (computer work) near vision specifically. I only need reading glasses for reading closer than 18". I can see a golf ball at 200 yds as well as everything on my computer monitors.

I had initially intended to use a vertical 32" monitor on each side and put the Chief Browsers on them so I could get the maximum full sheet size on the 55" TV. However, I found that with the Toolbars I was limited by the height of the TV and the Browsers fit fine without reducing the size of the Plan/Layout. Here's my screen with a 30x48 drawing sheet.

Hi Larry, I have them all at about 40" from my face. It works pretty well for me but I have perfect vision due to occular implants. Actually with all the implants I have I sometimes refer to myself as a "Borg in Transition". Distance is somewhat irrelevant since you can adjust the resolution and/or scale of apps to suit.

I use a 55" 4K TV for Chief (Library Browser at left side and Project Browser at right side. I use at least (1) 32" monitor for "edit dialogs", Internet, email & other programs. I find it's an advantage to have those separate, so my Plan & Layout are not obscured.

Wall or Post ?