Joe_Carrick

Scott,

I think the request was for a way to change the Snap Distance.  My point basically is that generally you want a snap distance that works for your basic dimensional tolerance.  Chief gives you all sorts of ways to over-ride that.

1.  Transform/Replicate

2.  Multi-Copy

3.  Point to Point Move

4.  Object Snaps

5.  Edit Temp Dimensions

6.  Center Tool

7.  etc.

I have the Grid Snap Distance set according to the type of Plan I'm working on.  For Floor Plans in General I used to like 3" but I decided early on with Chief that 1" was more to my liking.  OTOH, when working on Details (I have a set of Chief Plan Files - Scale 1"=1'-0") that I have the Grid Snap set at 1/8".  Those Grid Snaps simply get me PDC which is all I need.

Defaults->Plan

Chief has these settings in Defaults->Plan

You can set them up as a part of your Default Plan (or for any individual Plan) but otherwise the only Hot_Kkey and Tool Button Controls are to Toggle them on and off.  I think the assumption in Chief is that you would want such controls to be set to a standard.

Point to Point Move and/or Object Snap and/or Transform/Replicate are the ways to get around the Grid and Angle Snaps.

What you can't do with regular text is have one piece of text that uses different fonts, colors, or sizes.

That's exactly why I like Rich Text for Custom Room Labels and similar data display.  Basically I can format a "Mini-Page" in a single Rich Text Block.

OTOH, Standard Text using Text Styles is perfect for general notation.  I like all such thing to be uniform throughout my ConDocs.

When you "explode a 3D Symbol in Chief it becomes a set of Surfaces.

So what you need to do is then delete all the surfaces of 2 of the items (Chair and Love Seat for example) and then convert what's left to a new Symbol for the Sofa.  Do the same for the Chair and the Love Seat to get 3 separate symbols.

My problem is with Drywall Installers who don't take the time to verify that framing is straight, plumb and true.  They then install the drywall without shimming, install corner beads out of plumb and mud over it without making sure that the line between corner beads on short walls is floated straight, not to mention the fact that they tend to build up over 1/8" of tape and mud at drywall joints in some cases.  I just inspected a job where a 42" wide x 96" tall wall was out of plumb -1/4" on the left edge and +1/2" on the right edge.  So badly warped that it has to be removed and redone.  This is about the 10th instance on this house that they had to correct.

Talk about walls being mis-aligned ................ :angry:

There are too many ways for this to be done for Chief to anticipate all the different possibilities.

Here's what I would do:

1.  Make the Sill Plate the same width as the Wall Studs.

2.  Provide Details of the way I really want it built.

3.  Edit the Sections if necessary

FWIW, For Condos and Apartments where there's a LW Concrete fill over the Plywd Floor Sheathing I use a "Screed Sill" 2" wider than the Sill Plate.  It's a custom detail and it also provides a nailer for carpet tack strips.

I agree with Joe.  You cannot do it with out a bit of  futzing around.  

 

I disagree with JC when it comes to toe kick.  I would still make cabinet 3/4" deep,  shorten height of cabinet the height of toe kick,  raise cabinet off floor height of toe kick,  eliminate toe kick,  make toe kick out of a solid.

I agree with Scott on the Toe Kick.  In fact, I generally make all my cabinets sit on a separate Toe Kick - mainly because that way I can have a different material.  I usually just use a PSolid for this as a base for all the cabinets together.  In real life I build it using 2x4's as a platform.

Robert,

Here's a Symbol you can use.  I didn't put any door or drawer fronts on it  You can add those if you need them.

Note:  The Symbol can be stretched and or sized to fit.

Angled Base Cabinet Filler.calibz

There are a couple of different options:

1.  Place a 3/4" deep cabinet flush with the front of the other cabinets (make it 3.5" deep if you want a toe-kick) and use a custom countertop to fill the space.

2.  Create a couple of solids or a 3D Symbol (Furniture?) to fill the Space and again use a Custom Countertop.

This kind of cabinet has been requested many times, but chief hasn't provided the capability.

My Laptop has an NVidea GT780 GPU but the system indicates that the Intel HD4800 is controlling the display.  How do I change that?

I'm with you guys. I use a similar polyline system that a few others have mentioned, since I also like to have a quick visual of what's included or not. I have a 'CAD, Area Polylines' layer and a few layersets where this layer is visible (e.g.: 'Prelim Design Set + Area Polylines', 'Working Drawing Set + Area Polylines'). In these layersets, I also turn on the 'Walls, Main Layer Only' layer to make things easier to snap to. And I made a CAD block in my library of 5 or 6 different colored filled polylines (on the proper layer) that I can just insert in a plan and unblock, which saves me a couple steps every time. The only thing missing is to be able to extract the areas of those polylines to automatically update and add up in my Areas table.

This can be done using referenced macros with global variables.  I have such a system that I use which relies on referenced macros and Global Ruby variables.  It isn't perfect but it works.  The thing that a Label for Polylines would do is eliminate the need for the reference and text box with arrow.

Thanks, Joe. Good idea that gives great control.

 

How great it would be if one could create a closed polyline on a layer and then give it a name and extract info from it with a macro, like %polylineX.area%. I could then have a layer I called 'areas' with multiple polylines with different fill colors, and create my own custom labels/legends.

This is already possible but there are a couple of details:

1.  The macro must be defined as "Referenced"

2.  The Text Box must have an arrow that points to the Polyline.

3.  Overlapping Polylines or other objects could confuse the Text Box as to what is being pointed to.

This is why some of us have been requesting that CA provide "Labels" for closed Polylines.

Jim,

Is it possible one is in the wall and the other is in the Doorway?

IAE, it's wierd.

Susan, There may be some in the Bonus Libraries > Accessories > Spa. I'm not sure.

Yes, see pic for Library Location.  You'll need to download that Library

Joe, that works fine.  I actually have a 1" thick symbol that I created (12" square) that I just slap on the wall and then move it 1" into the wall and adjust the size, position and material - but a PSolid works.

for a niche use a pass trough, polyline solid to close the back, no casing.  Just size as needed.

Actually, providing a Casing and Sill could be done as well, depending on what sort of design you want.  Selection of Molding Profiles can result in some really cool effects.

It is a matter of editing the "x-y-z" settings of the 2D block or just try regenerating the 2D block. this is done by way of the "Edit Symbol" dialog for each symbol. Actually now that I think of it, windows may not have such a dialog like other symbols and if that is true then you would have to make the repair in the same program you used to create the window symbol object, correcting the 2D block part of the window object. The above is suppositional from my point of view because I have never needed to make a custom window object.

 

DJP

Sorry DJ,

This doesn't work with Window Symbols.  Chief will allow the 2D Block to be offset but not so that it will recess into the wall.  So, your supposition is incorrect.

I usually make the Glass Walls "No Room Definition" and use the Wall Material Region for the Tile.  I either use a "Shower Pan" and change it's material or I use a "Pony Wall" for the Curb.

The advantage (to me) of not having the shower defined as a separate room is that I can do Interior Elevations of the entire space rather than having a separate set of elevations for the shower and another for the Bathroom.

Wow, why didn't I think to use a slab door and change it to glass?!  That is brilliant!  

 

Thanks!!  

I appreciate the compliment but a Glass Shower Door really is just a "Glass Slab".  It's just the way my brain works.

I don't know of any way to do that.  If HD 8.6 has an Import Symbol capability then you could export the 3D Symbol from Chief to 3DS and Import it that way.

The GLASS DOOR is really a Framed Glass Door such as you would have for an Exterior Sliding Glass Door or a French Door.

It's actually pretty easy to create a Glass Door Symbol from a simple 3D Box.  It would only have one material which could be "Glass".  OTOH, once you define one Glass Shower Door, You can add it to your Library and use that every time without having to go thru all the editing.

How did you try to change it?  Don't use the eyedropper.  Open the Door dbx, select the Materials Tab and change it there.

Have you changed the Wall Type?  Is it possible the Casings do no project out beyond the Brick?

Just change the door to a SLAB instead of PANEL.

IOW, do not use a "GLASS" Door (Door Style).  Use a Slab Door, set it to 3/8" thick and make the material "Glass"