Alaskan_Son

There are quite a few little issues in my opinion... 1. Whether or not brick is "load bearing" is somewhat debatable and depends on the seismic zone, product, and installation details. 2. a 3-4" concrete wall is not even allowable per IRC with the exception of pier and curtain wall foundations (which I suppose this may or may not be). 3. Based on the height and thickness of that 3-4" section, I'm not sure it's even possible to meet the minimum edge separation and embedment depth requirements for those j bolts...and if it is, they would have to be set absolutely perfectly and rotated so that the j was running parallel with the foundation wall (and not perpendicular as drawn up). 4. Based on that drawing, the j-bolts would not be placed properly centered in the sill plate as that should be (likely violating code in many areas...and rightly so). 5. Not necessarily a design flaw, but the j-bolts in the lower wall section would also need special attention to make sure the proper embedment depth and edge clearances were met. To make sure this happened, they should probably actually be placed at a slight angle (or maybe using a different bolt design). I don't know, maybe I'm wrong, but I definitely don't think I could find an engineer around here willing to sign off on that detail.

Ya, I deleted my post because it seemed like you were saying the same thing and you posted first (I was actually typing mine up when you posted). I guess the only thing I posted that you didn't was that I don't personally have that problem and that perhaps if the OP attached a plan we might be able to figure something out. How about it OP? Can you attach a plan?

Don't want to get too far off subject here, but that really looks like a faulty design to me. That little 3" or 4" thick foundation section looks like a failure waiting to happen.

I personally create a lot of camera views too during my workflow and spend a lot of time closing them. I'm usually forced to use the tabs as selecting the individual cameras seems to take even longer and can be a little more difficult to sort through.

I was hoping you would attach the actual Sketchup model (as opposed to a screenshot) however, from looking at the picture, I can see that it would not require a complex 3D moulding and would only need a 2D CAD profile. Place that piece of railing into your plan, take a cross section camera view through the middle of it, and create a CAD Detail From View. Make sure the CAD lines, arcs, splines, etc. that from your moulding profile form a complete polyline (as opposed to separate segments), and then select that polyline and Add To Library. You can now use that moulding for your railing.

If there's a faster way I would like to know it as well.

Again...attach the plan. Specifically one that is causing you problems. Otherwise we're just guessing.

You are correct. Definitely doable this way. Did this pretty quickly by...-Setting the 4 end walls (2 upper and 2 lower) as full gable walls -Opening the wall DBX for the 2 lower side walls, and under the roof tab, giving the roof an extremely steep pitch and an 8" overhang. -Opening the wall DBX for the 2 upper side walls, and under the roof tab, giving the roof a shallower pitch and a 2" overhang.

See if this works for you. May and may not depending on what version of HD Pro you are using. Hopefully it does though... Copper Ridge.zip

Not sure exactly what you mean by that, but once you modify the truss you can still check "Force Truss Rebuild" and it will rebuild to its previous state (or to your modified roof shape).

I don't have a perfect answer for you, but as far as I can tell, the easiest thing to do is probably to just unlock the "Framing, Roof Trusses" layer and manually modify the truss framing.

You should probably attach a plan to get a better answer. The best method to clean those connections up can vary depending on exactly how you built your walls (including all the various settings).

Top of your screen...Help>Launch Help. You may find this to be an utterly invaluable tool. Search Molding and read up on Molding Profiles and Molding Polylines. Really pretty easy. In the meantime, can you attach the Sketchup model you were referring to? You may need to zip it before attaching.

If you got it from Sketchup, its probably a 3D object. What Chief uses for the rails is a profile. You'll need to create a 2D CAD line profile of the railing you want to use...or possibly a 3D moulding, but a 3D object won't work.

You should probably attach the plan. Works fine for me... Is it possible you just forgot to click OK when closing the Build Roof DBX?

Not sure exactly what you're doing, but it sounds like you're probably applying a new material and not simply a color to the existing material. It's usually best to find a material in the library that is exactly what you want rather than tweaking the colors, however if you DO need to tweak colors, there are at least a couple ways to do so... 1. Using the Adjust Material Definition Tool. Navigate to the Texture tab and under Material Color check "Blend with Texture" and adjust the color to what you want it to be using any of the various methods there in the Select Color DBX...including the little eyedropper in the bottom left corner which you can use to select a color from anywhere on your screen (not just from within Chief). OR 2. Simply select a color from the library and apply it with the Material Painter. Make sure Blend Colors with Materials (the paint roller) is toggled on (or checked). I usually make sure that Blend Colors is toggled off except for the express purpose of modifying strictly the color of any given material. Once you've made your modifications, toggle Blend Colors back off to avoid screwing up any materials elsewhere in your model.

You should be able to simply Mouse-Pan Camera (Control+P).

Mike, The best method is to do as Graeme suggested...accurate drawing and if necessary adjusting rounding settings. Not in front of computer but I believe those settings are under the Primary Format tab of the dimension DBX.

I believe all outside corners at Canterbury Cathedral have a column...and rightly so.

You bet. Glad I could help.

Don't be too hard on yourself...Had it been told better I personally feel it would have been a very good joke.

Here you go. You may need to navigate to the bottom right corner to create a full screen view of the video. And please note that I simply created a copy in the plan but you can also add the material to your library if you wish for use in future plans. You simply need to click Add To Library in the Select Material DBX before clicking OK. http://screencast.com/t/pjCZkpteee

I think you guys are doing something wrong. Video coming shortly...

Other than what I've mentioned above, the only other thing I can think of is this...change your defaults for Auto Interior Dimensions so that they're placed on a unique layer (makes them easier to group select and modify) and when you originally place them, use a small dimension size (makes them easier to sort out). Then place them room by room (less overwhelming) cleaning up, modifying, and moving to appropriate layer(s) as you go through the plan.

Gotcha. I thought you were talking about Delete Objects. To answer your question though, as I stated in post #5 above, I don't personally use auto interior dimensions either. I don't personally think its even possible to improve on the tool though. As I suggested, you can clean it up a bit by increasing square footage setting and deselecting everything except Walls, Surfaces. I still prefer to just use manual dimensions though. I know what I want dimensioned...Chief DOESN'T.