rgardner

That is a bit tricky but the key is to add a "throw away" piece that you would place for the vertical past it and use the "join and miter ends" or "join and lap ends" tool which will mess up the "throw away" piece which you then delete and trim the new angled piece to the jack or king stud.

Great step to get your business to the next level on the drafting front. There are several who offer this service. I believe that @Renerabbittis about to release or has ready to release his new prop plan for interior designers.

I hope that I am wrong about this, but... Just assuming from the downvote to my question and the fact that you are using X11 which is 5 years old and not available for purchase anymore yet you claim that you are newish, then you are using pirated software. You probably won't get alot of support from the community who have spent good money to pay for the software and support from chief. Best of luck in your endeavors.

How are you new to the software and using X11?

I would say to post the plan. I think its something with your roof structure but it might be the age old problem where the wall will not build to under the surface of the roof. If you want vertical purlins that is probably what it is. Depends on your truss spans.

change your "SUB-FASCIA" to the thickness of your structure and your soffits will move to that thickness... Currently you have a 2x6 structure and 2x8 sub-fascia so the soffiting is 7 1/4" from the deck leaving the 1 3/4" gap.

Change your subfascia to 2x6

Most of the time it would be fine. However sometimes an invisible wall can cause issues with other items and or wall transitions, for example if on the other side of that wall there is a close perpendicular wall it can sometimes cause issues. Or if you have a cabinet close to it that you don't want to turn off auto fillers on the plan the invisible wall can cause auto fillers to be added. Many reasons.

Pretty sure you can bury a partition in the ceiling or floor at that point as well and it will stop.

Just refresh your views each time you "Print" Best practice is plot lines as live is a resource hog.

@Renerabbitt's back yard and one of the fastest out there. @MKBDesignis also out there.

Or copy the symbol and use stretch planes to size it how you want it.

Draw a custom Sill profile how you want it...

@MarkMc gave some excellent tips up there in his post and I will say that I may have to import a symbol from outside sources maybe 6x a year tops. Usually I only do that for custom appliances, or commercial fixtures. I use no other modeling programs and as he says many times you can even find a similar symbol and modify it using tools like the temporary delete surface tool, stretch planes, offsets, molding polylines, and the create symbol tool. Chief is FAR MORE POWERFUL than many users understand. Especially if you have never given it a fair shake because you fall back on sketchup, VW, or other modeling programs. Now would I suggest it for a cabinet shop to try to draw cnc files from NO. But for interior design and architectural design including custom and period pieces it is amazing.

So I would never do this except if you are already developed but why not just use a Stair landing for the loft portion, manually place the door and stairs/ladder? You will have to do cad work for the framing pages for the floor but that could also just be done with a note since its such a simple one.

Retain framing

Ever try showing framing of a landing for construction documents? Granted depending on the need of the OP he may just be trying to render it which means that he can use a landing. However if he needs to do anything else with it then a second floor for that portion will be much easier.

Yes you need a second floor in that portion of the building.

Impossible to tell without the plan file but I would venture a pretty good guess that your manually placed roof planes are not square. Select that edge of the roof plane in plan view and open up and look at that selected edge to see if its at 90 degrees.

2x2 framed walls and lots of work with the wall layer intersection tool.

You need to provide more information. Pictures, plan files, your program information is all helpful. Most users will just keep scrolling past so please see this comment as the help it is intended to be to help you get the information you need.

If you are stuck on using the same plan file then create a new blank floor on the plan and manually draw in the part you want using the align with walls below to make sure your walls are planar.

Separate files for each building.

As Robert says the framing profiles are hard coded so if it is something you need please make a concise suggestion with the reasoning of why it would help your workflow. In the meantime you can make the wall with an invisible framing layer and then do a room molding polyline with the framing members as a vertical molding. Or manually place symbols. All that being said. Is this something you need to show in 3d or can a cad detail suffice?

Not a problem. Create your door in chief or whatever modeling program you want to use. But if you try to bring in a DWG 3d file it needs to have the textures separated prior to bringing into chief. I was just pointing out that the door you are working so hard is in fact in the chief catalog already so you are going through alot of work for nothing.