AlwaysEastern

I tried the resolution & display change prior to MickeyToo's suggestion. It did not help. However the problem as of my last drawing session seems to have stopped just as mysteriously as it appeared. Thanks for all the help.

Thanks Cheryl

Thanks MickeyToo, You described the same issues I am having. Really annoying.. I also have two displays. It would be interesting to see if that is a factor or what else triggers it. Changing screen resolution didn't help me. I assume Cheryl sent to tech support? Cheryl if you have any news, we'd be glad to hear...

Hi Cheryl, did the edit handle issue get resolved? I am experiencing the same thing when working in Cad detail.

Nice work around Scott!

I am able to save them. But I have found they can only be saved in plan or cross/elevation view. I tested it again last night to be sure. I closed chief and reopened using a different plan file and the walls are still there in the user library. I don't know the exact parameters, that's partly why I was asking if there are bugs or inconsistencies on how to save walls to library. Whatever the case, I think having the ability to save all wall configurations (upper/lower wall configurations) is of great value to me.

I just realized previously saved pony walls in my user library lost their lower wall type, definitions, and height. These walls are from other plan files. The materials that were designated for the lower walls are still in my materials file. Anyone else have this issue?

I work mostly LA and Orange County. This particular job in Rolling Hills (contracts out to LA County Building) had the same square footage of windows but the spacing/position were changed slightly. There was no change in the house square footage. To get the job started, I didn't question it. Just did what they wanted.

The new California Green code makes us fill out energy calcs for just about every job now. Residential alteration form CF1R‐ALT‐01‐E. The LABDS plan checker stated he hadn't even been trained on what is actually required. I had to fill out for window changes which was replacing 7 windows and 1 door from single pane glass to dual glazed low E etc.along with better installation methods. Doesn't take a genius to figure out I am improving performance...

Great find Jon, Thanks. I could look through those for hours

Nice Tip!

Hey Raymond, you can do it either way. I only use the duration setting to get an overall speed. Then each camera should be individually adjusted. When each camera pans/tilts/ etc., during the walk through, it's perspective changes making the viewer see some portions of the walkthrough too quickly. The best way to demonstrate this is if you were to have two cameras set with the same settings as a comparison: one going straight through the center of a large room and one camera turning through a narrow hallway. The latter is going to show the space faster. Then if you reduce the "speed after" setting of the camera that is turning, you will see that it will appear to match the first.

Try changing the "speed after" setting for each camera in the walkthrough path specification box. You must highlight each camera while in the spec. box to see its settings - then you can modify accordingly. I have had good results with 1.5, 2, 3 second speeds.

Thanks everyone! First time having to build one.“Sometimes the questions are complicated and the answers are simple.” ― Dr. Seuss. I should have known better. I will build this later today along with a catslide roof. I am looking forward to it!

Sorry David, I was using "even" as an adverb. What I was trying to say is that when adjusting "angle at eave" using the curve roof setting in the dbx - chief doesn't crash but it just stalls until I have to force quit. I have tried many eave angle settings (large and small) to no avail. I select the whole roof using roof planes tool and shift select - then adjust the eave angle - in hopes of getting what's pictured.

Every time I go and add even the smallest radius at the eave of this conical roof results in Chief stalling until I have to force quit. Can someone please see if it happens them or that I have built the roof properly? It could very well be something I am doing wrong? M. Conical Curved roof.zip

Standard Area is measured from the center of interior walls to either the outside surface of exterior walls or exterior wall framing, depending on the Living Area to setting in the General Plan Defaults dialog. Interior Area is measured from the inner surfaces of all the room's walls. Its format is set on the Dimension Format panel of the Room Label Defaults dialog for the current floor. You can turn those on and off by going to layers/rooms, interior area and rooms, standard area

Glad to help. Just like you, there are many times I am stuck not for the lack of trying. Plan is attached! Sharon's shed roof.zip

Hi Sharon, I understood the situation, but there are a number of factors that were not known. It won't be exact because we don't know the shed roof pitch, rafter sizes, etc.That's why it's best to post the plan. But, I am assuming this is what you want? Option one: Select the roof plane in plan view, once highlighted, use the break tool and break the roof and drag smaller section up (or over depending on what side of the roof you broke). Drag that line up to the edge of the drywall and do the same for the other side. When you go to full overview - you should now see that room showing more or less as a normal height without a roof. Now go to the plan view and take the roof plane tool. At your exterior wall - start dragging out your roof plane. You can use the existing roof lines as snaps for now. Then stretch the roof plane up to meet the existing roof above the interior wall with the door to the bathroom. Click on your new roof plane to open up the dbx to modify the pitch which I guessed at 1.5" (image 1) Click on the same roof and raise the roof as needed.(image 3) Now click on the interior wall poking out of the roof and change it to an exterior wall. Then go to the roof tab - select "lower wall type if split by butting roof and chose interior wall (image 4) That is pretty much it. Adjust your roof as needed. Option Two: I can post the file if you need Sorry, I don't know why the pictures show out of order - I posted them sequentially

Hard to understand what you need help with. Try posting the plan. This post should help you: https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/1323-upload-plan-file/

Sorry Larry, I gave it a shot... Couldn't find anything wrong.

I agree Joe, but probably not as adorned as the one in the picture. Has anyone ever used http://www.trufig.com/home.php It's a nice look but they are about $400-$600 per fixture to install including labor. I haven't used their HVAC grilles.

I prefer to put the equipment in a conditioned space as well. Like Perry, We try to locate our return registers with filters in discrete convenient locations when possible. Joe, what is the difference in aesthetics looking at a return register (no filter) and one with a well maintained filter behind the louvers? If anything it may encourage a homeowner to actually do the maintenance. We haven't had any issues using closed and open cell foam in California. We use Icynene. You just need to supply documentation to the inspectors showing the products meet the requirements. The inspectors keep that info as part of their records. If we use open cell foam, a fire retardant needs to be applied to get the fire rating. The biggest drawback is trying to educate the homeowner and justify the cost. I can understand most builders in a competitive bidding situation just want to get the job. If its not design build on our part, the only way I can implement better building systems is for it to already be designed in the plans.

F.A.U. - Forced Air Unit The round symbol would be a Hot water heater.

Very Nice, Thanks