ACADuser

I did not realize or forgot (more likely) that you can edit the truss profile in a Section view by dragging the envelope of the truss once selected. In plan view you still need to drag the ends of the truss into position, lock truss & M-copy. That did what I needed.

I thought the Truss Base was the ceiling plane. Are you saying use a Ceiling plane in place of the truss base?

Eric, I have used it successfully that way. Just thought it would work in any direction. Oh well, manually built it is. I'm going to add a feature request. Thanks

Plan attached I'm having trouble with the truss base & building a truss over it. I built the trusses for the existing roof & need to show new trusses so I added a Truss Base. But the trusses will not build over the truss base. Any advice would be appreciated. Sterling Addition.zip

Thanks Mick Joey that was the trick. Thanks Much.

Mick, Not the same roof, but thanks. The roof built can not be modified to look like what I wanted. Eric, Do not understand the process but will try again when I return in a few hours. Thanks

That worked well Joe, Thanks.

Tell me about it. I have spent at least twice as long with this client talking her out of stuff.

Building these is a PITA, is there a better way? I just guess at the locations of the roof baseline when creating the roof planes needed. Once you have one you can copy but that first one is tedious work. Any ideas? Elrod.zip

Also the interior base molding does not respect the window.

Eric the exterior sill did fix that, Thank you. Joe I'll give that a try, although the customer wants Single hung. I guess I could fake a window. I'm sure the door would behave better.

I posted the plan here:

OK this is another situation where the porch beams (CC Lintels) need to tie into the exterior wall at a fixed location. See A & B The overhang & roof need to be at the edge of the beam as shown. Just because the soffit & fascias need to match. Columns need to center under the beam. This makes the floor not in the correct place for the column bases as shown in the picture. I guess you could drag the foundation out to make the floor larger, then the tile does not cover & the room size label is incorrect. How do you address these design situations? Also there is an issue with the soffit at A-C that I have not been able to fix. Use a 3D camera to look at the underside of the overhang. Thanks for your input. KTZ.zip

Is there a way to remove the molding on the bottom of the door?

Maybe the usual way for some but I have seen a few houses without the extended beam.

Yes Eric the attic wall when moved left the ceiling out over the floor. Just seems like such a kludge way to build these. So many houses have this design and Chief should have a way to build it without all the extra work. Mick, the Dead valley always gets a cricket or you have big problems down the road. The roofing in that area definitely needs a peal & stick underlayer. I never liked the cantilevered outer beams and the gable end beam is decorative in most cases. If you want the gable face out from the gable beam you have to hang it. My details are not clear. Framing below.

So with auto attic walls off you can move the gable without screwing up the ceiling? I'll try that. Yes much nicer porch but the client wants the larger porch. I've been working on this house for months & they want another meeting to change the floor plan again. BTW I did not design that master bath either. They get advice from everyone except me.

I can move the Attic Wall to push the gable end back into the porch but the ceiling builds out to the porch wall below. So the only way to build the porch out beyond the gable is to have more that one porch wall? Or to use a psolid to build the porch floor. Just seems like this is a common problem with porches and there should be an easy method. The idea is to have a porch with an accurate square footage number and size in the database for use in schedules & material list.

How do you control the floor location when the gable end needs to build in another location? Also do you typically frame it like I show in the right side detail?

See attached X10 plan. How would you address the gable end location relative to the porch floor edge? Note that the gable end truss needs support so I usually align it with the beam below which is set back from the porch edge. The porch edge is usually determined by the column footprint. If the gable end truss is beyond the beam, it will need perpendicular members to hold it up. In Chief, the gable end is positioned by the floor below. I can do a section view if you need clarification. Thanks New.zip

I envy your talent & you could probably play the piano. But I'm a right dominate hand player and want the program to help me, not me help the program. So I want Chief to change not me.

You may have Michael but I like to stir the pot. Also at 69 I forget a lot of what I was told yesterday. Just seems to me that such a common frequently repeated operation should not require finger gymnastics or two mice or any other such nonsense. Zooming & Panning during a command should be a no-brainer and help the workflow.

Thanks Mark, seems to work, although crossing with the left hand is awkward. Wonder why Chief did not use + - It would be sooo nice if you had the option to pick - pick rather that Click - drag Then you could use the wheel to zoom & Pan. Realy a much better method.

So in this example, I start the 2nd arrow & want to snap to the vertex of the existing arrow (2 segments). I start the command but realize the snap will not snap to the vertex unless I zoom in. How do I zoom while holding down the mouse button dragging the arrow? Happy New Year.

I don't use sketchFab much except to share details with contractors. https://sketchfab.com/ab2draft/models Looks like you did not get the materials loaded in the zip file you uploaded or exceeded the limit for free users.