ACADuser

The referenced details are the reason I don't just renumber the set. The project come over from Rivet & I did not want to chase down all the details. Seems you always miss one. One of those projects where the client said I just want to make a few changes. Which I did in Autocad. Then the client & owner wanted to have separate plan for each house and make a few more changes. Oh and while your at it lets change the floor truss heights. I have now re-drawn the house in Chief for corrected elevations & floor plans.

That is what I'm doing but thought the automation would be nice to take advantage of. This is only the 2nd project this was needed. As I recall I used the blank layouts method last time. Just seems like you (the user) should be able to choose the starting number.

Thanks Joe.

Thanks fellas. It is an unusual situation so I'll manually number them.

It can wait until Monday, the job is not due until Wednesday The previous drafter did the job in Rivet in 2018. I got the CAD export & needed to separate the two houses. This is the little one that they decided t build finally. It has so may tags that reference sheet numbers that I decided not to redo the sheet numbers, just start the sheets at A16

So here is a thought. If I create a variable A-Start = 15 Then in the layout Page Field I put something like "A-%(layout.page.number + A-Start).to_s%" Obviously I have no idea how to get the Page # but would something like that work?

Yes the "starting number" is the feature I wanted to use. The 15 blank layouts is too close to using a sledge hammer to drive finish nail for me.

Maybe I did something wrong but this is what I get. I put A-16 and then each successive layout I put A-# I wand to skip labels A-1 through A-15

Modifying plans I have a need to start the sheet with A-16 Is there still no way to set the starting number? A-16 A-# A-# A-# A-# yields A-16 A-17 A-18 A-19 A-20

I bought my wife, who does craft work & painting, this lamp several year ago. https://tinyurl.com/42vtsrhf They did not have the dimmer & color temp control then. I think these features are desirable. I like the sleek and simple design and the flexible arm. I would consider one for my desk if they had a table model with a longer arm. My office has good lighting so I'm not really in the market. If I could change anything with my lighting it would be a dimmer with light temperature control. In the morning & evenings I like lower light levels with a warm temperature. That's what happen when you get old & picky. Good luck with your project.

Nice resource Joe.

FYI, We've had good reports for this system . https://plidek.com/waterproof-deck-coatings-details/inclement-weather/

Lots info on the internet, look at the UL site. The ceiling may need more attention, i.e. steel channels. The door is usually 45 min rated. Any penetrations in walls & ceilings will need fire rated treatments (fire caulk or dampers for ventilation ducts) The batteries often give off a combustible gas so ventilation will be needed. Consider a suppression system, maybe Halon along with your smoke & co2 & heat sensors. Be cautious with a bomb in the basement. BTW the gas given off by batteries is flammable. You many be using sealed lead acid but someone may replace them in the future. Good luck..

Dermot, Is the Script folder migrated? C:\Users\Alan\Documents\Chief Architect Premier X13 Data\Scripts

All great information. Thanks fellas.

Any of you experienced with a side mount garage door motor? Looks like a good idea.

That got me on the right track, soffit ON & Flat Under Eve ON I'm going to put a beam above the pipe columns but need to get the ceiling corrected. I think I have it now. Thanks

I can seem to get the soffit to behave. It should be one plane with ceiling. Do I need to use a manual ceiling plane? SN070121.zip

Looks ok, maybe the scale is too large.

Does Chief have this materiel or something similar?

That works well for my planning plan. Thanks

That looks very nice. Off to early dinner so I'll study it when I get back. Thanks

This is more of what I was after. Perhaps I should just use solids to make it?

I was able to make a steep stair by adjusting the overhang but the treads overhang the sides as well. Tried adding a wall next to the stair but an invisible wall will not trim the overhang but a regular wall will. Maybe I missed a setting. The stair could be pushed up against the exterior wall but needs to be trimmed on the interior side. I tried to use a railing wall but it will not follow stairs if over the right overhang.

Sad to say but rough framing is done by one guy that can read the plans & a lot of nail bashers. Just the way it is here for production framers.