MN_JohnH

I guess I am just another guy a little bit non-plussed with the 3d viewer. I have accepted we can't get the physically based camera but it would be nice if we could get the lines drawing over the standard view. (Yes, I realize I can do it with PDFs etc).

I am wondering how you got the lines drawn over your framing drawing to show up on the 3d viewer here?

Hi Glenn, I did see it and I like the idea. I may try and play with that in the future. The nice thing about that is it cuts around the windows. Or at the windows. Anyway, the log homes we built back in the 80s and 90s that I am often going back to for remodel are quite a different animal. We actually used logs taken right out of the woods from local loggers and then we peeled them with a draw-knife. That was my job in the early days of my time here in the woods. But I quickly graduated to using chainsaw and axes and chisels to carve these logs one by one and stack them up. That is what I spent the last 15 years of the 20th century doing. Later we moved on to conventional construction and I am now 62 and have been mostly working with designing homes and running the business for the last decade or so. More than anyone wants to know I am sure, but that way of building had the first logs being half logs and then they were stacked up alternating sides and alternating the tapers on the logs to bring the walls up level. More or less. It was a very inexact craft. So when it comes to cutting in the window holes later, they rarely fall between logs. We always cut a piece out of the log above and below. I know I don't have to make my drawings with this detail and I am thinking I might still be able to do it with your molding idea alternating the height of the moldings on north and south walls etc. I would also need to do it on the inside... Anyway this thread has been very helpful and I appreciate all the suggestions. I am way ahead in my solid manipulation from where I was a few days ago. Here I have a picture of the house I am doing the "as built" drawing for and a picture of my drawing so far. Still a bit of work to do. Thanks again.

Thanks Eric, this is making a big difference.

Stacking up poly lines would be a simple process if they just did what you want them to do. I draw one of my cylinders or even a block and try to move it and it will change elevations, it will move higher or lower in relation to finish floor. Sometimes it happens when I just grab a side of an object and stretch it, it will suddenly be a good distance lower or higher. I can't figure it out, it makes me want to pull my hair out, (but I have no hair left). Sometimes I have an object on one side of the house and I reflect copy it in plan view to the other side and presto, it is 6 feet underground. Sometimes I open an object and it is the correct distance from finished floor and sometimes I open an object that I know is about 80" Above FF and it says it is negative 115" below FF. What's that about? Sometimes I split a long cylinder by subtracting a block out of the middle and suddenly one end of the piece drops a foot into the ground. I could stack up logs very quickly and get this done but I am constantly fighting these crazy behaviors. I am talking about just plain freshly drawn cylinders or square cubes whether I draw them in plan view or an elevation. There seems to be no rhyme or reason to how they will behave when I try to manipulate them. The plan is too large to attache and I doubt if I can replicate the behavior in a sample plan but maybe someone can enlighten me on what governs the height from FF on these ployline solids?

Thanks Rene, I tried that and it seems to help sometimes and other times not so much. Same with the regular polyline solid, sometimes the subtraction works fine other times no. I think the best workaround is to use separate pieces of log like Eric suggested. Anyway, I appreciate all the help as always. My other question was concerning the facet angle setting: When I copy the object, it will retain the same facet angle setting but when I cut the object in some way it reverts back to the automatic facet angle setting. I can't find anything in the default settings where I can make that automatic facet angle what I want it to be. Thanks again.

Thank you, that was the conclusion I was coming to too. Any thoughts on my second question: Also, I change my facet angle on the logs to minimize surface counts. When I copy the object, it will retain the same facet angle setting but when I cut the object n some way it reverts back to the automatic facet angle setting. I can't find anything in the default settings where I can make that automatic facet angle what I want it to be.

Also, I change my facet angle on the logs to minimize surface counts. When I copy the object, it will retain the same facet angle setting but when I cut the object n some way it reverts back to the automatic facet angle setting. I can't find anything in the default settings where I can make that automatic facet angle what I want it to be.

I have read all the threads on log walls and have tried different approaches but have settled on making the wall out of glass and then just adding cylindrical polyline solids and stacking them up. The problem I am having is when the window hole has to cut into part of a log. So I am creating a square block the size of the window and then subtracting it from the log solids. Some times it works fine but often I get this distorted effect with the remaining portion of the log that has been cut. It seems there might be a workaround but I can't find it. But really, why would this be happening in the first place? Log problems.plan

I found the tool to convert to polyline and I thought at first that was working but I see that I still have the same problems with the distorting of the shape after I cut into it by subtracting the other solid. But I can't find a tool for converting to polygon.

OK, I give up. I can't figure out what you mean by "convert to polygon" or how to do it. I have searched everything, (except where the actual information is obviously). If you could help me with this that would be great. Thanks,

I often have this problem where I create the log as a p-solid, I stack them up and cut out the window holes by creating a polyline solid block the size of the window and then subtracting the block from the logs. Often on the top and bottom logs of the hole where the cut is only halfway through the log, I get some deforming. I am not sure what causes this. I have created a simple log wall plan where this is happening and an image showing what I am talking about. Log problems.plan

Awesome! I knew there had to be a simple way but apparently I just didn't know what to search for. Thanks! This is truly a game changer for me!

The problem with this method is you can't cut the windows into the logs. You can put the logs around the windows but if a window opening cuts halfway through a log on the top or bottom of the opening you can't cut it out if you use the log symbols. I have built whole log homes using polyline solid cylinders and then you can cut them away where the window top or bottom cuts into the log. But of course using solids create a huge surface count and bogs everything down. One question I have is, why do the log symbols have less surface count and how can I draw my own logs with a lower surface count? Or if I could take the log symbol and turn it into a solid that would be helpful too. I built a lot of log homes back in the 80s and 90s when they were popular and now a lot of new owners of those homes are coming back for remodels etc so I have had to draw a lot of these and have not found the best way to do it. Mostly I have used the log siding and a thick wall but if I want to take it to the next level I use the solids or the log symbols. I make layers for perlins, beams, log loft joists, log ends and log walls so then I can turn off layers I don't need as I am working to keep thing from bogging down. I see this discussion is a few years old but I figured I would see what would come of this and if there are any new ideas.

Thanks!!

Dang, I thought I had checked that. Thanks! Now I just need to figure again how I am going to change the walls over the roof on that dormer to be exterior while keeping the walls under the roof interior. Seems like I need to relearn this every time but I know there is a video somewhere... Thanks again,

Thanks, that works. Now I have a similar issue on the other side of that same plan. I tried pulling the roof planes back a little but that didn't help.

I am having a hard time figuring out why the eve is boxed all the way out to the gable eve fascia on one side and on the other it is flush with the gable wall siding, (which is what I want). I took the one that I wanted and mirror copied it over to the other side so the settings are all the same. I am thinking it has something to do with the walls? as built working at home start 9-16-23.plan

OK I finally got it by making a symbol that looks half backwards and then somehow when I inserted it into my plan it worked out. When I started, I built the door the normal way and then created a material stretch to fit and applied it to a slab that was the same size as my door and just had it stick out slightly past the door on the one side so that you only see the wood door on the outside and my drawing on the inside. I had two reversed versions of the drawing and was trying it both ways on reversed slabs etc. Every different option. The plan here called "the ones I was trying" are only the last three versions, I had a lot more different ways I was reflecting things and getting them to line up. The ones I had looking right on the symbol were backwards or had some other issue when I inserted them into the plan so I decided to try saving the symbol as a version that isn't "right" and then that one worked. That is the plan marked "the one that worked", you can see it, (assuming you are interested). Anyway, I just wanted to say I made it happen and I appreciate all the comments. I build custom doors occasionally for homes that I design and build and that is what this is for, I just wanted to be able to insert it in the plan the way I wanted it to look. I am familiar with terms like "pre-hang" and Left and right "handing", (I have been building doors for over 30 years). It was just getting it to work in CA on this particular one that was beating me up a little bit. Thanks again everyone. sample.plan The ones I was trying.plan This is the one that works.plan

I appreciate all the help again. I know there is a way to get it right but every time I try reversing the door and or the drawing or whatever I get the tall window on the other side which is not what I want. Anyway, it's not big deal, I can just switch it to a fixed door for the rendering and then there won't be a knob and that will be fine. Something like this can sure kill a lot of time. I am over it now. I will move on. Thanks again for the help, we can put this to rest.

You would think so. I tried it and it didn't work. I think I will start over and build the door the other way and see how it turn out. Like I said, I was just hoping for a simpler solution. I will keep working on it. Thanks

But I don't want the door reflected. I want it exactly how it is with the window to the one side and my sketch on the inside. I just thought the would be an easy way to change the door swing but leave the rest of the door exactly how it is. Thanks, I will keep playing with it.

I have a custom door I created. I used a hand sketched drawing for the materials on one side. Is there a way to change the door swing from RH to LH without the panel configuration of the door changing? I have a simple plan file here and the door file that I used for the symbol. Thanks Just slab with tree.plan sample.plan

Thanks guys, Apparently in all my trying different things, somehow that whole room became a stairwell. I guess that is what confused CA. I just cleared that whole space and started over.

For some reason I can't get this stairs to meet the top floor. When I hit "make best fit" it over extends the height. Addition #3 x15.plan