MN_JohnH

Thanks Eric, It was really helpful, (and fun), to watch how you worked through that.

Thanks guys, just moving the baselines out to the outer edge didn't do it on my plan, the protrusion was still there but much less visible. But I looked at your plan Mark and it seemed to work so... Cutting the wall and making the gable section into a gable wall fixed it for me. I never understood what the gable wall or hip wall types do, they have never really seemed to make a difference when I have played with them in the past so I didn't even think of trying those. I also never paid attention to where the baseline is located, interior or exterior of the wall. I will pay attention to this going forward. Thanks for diving into this and helping me out.

OK, I am back here again with the same problem recreated as I moved through this project. I was watching it this time and it occurred when I changed the 2nd floor room to "open below" and it goes away when I change the upper room back to "unspecified" I want the main floor room to have a vaulted ceiling. I derived the second floor plan from the first floor plan and then sectioned it off using room divider. Then I went back to the areas where I wanted the vaulted ceiling on the first floor, went to the 2nd floor rooms and changed to "open below". Everything is good except this one spot. Roof wall issue.plan

Yes, I did that. The most recent is at least an hour before my issue. I check preferences and I have it set at 5 minutes. I think it had something to do with uploading the plan here, I don't now. Doesn't matter now. I will start a new day and move on.

I don't understand, I have always had my auto-save set at every 5 minutes. I have at least an hour of work that is not in any of the auto archived plan files.

Wow, this is really a bummer. I saved the file and closed it and sent it. Now when I went to open it, I get the file you are showing. Which means i just lost a crap ton of work. I can't find anything in the archives newer than that either.

Here is another one. I just started this clean, i don't know what would be making this happen on one side of this roof and not the other. As built start over 3.20.24.plan

OK but say I have a bunch of wall drawn and I now I change the default, it would seem like there would be some way to select the wall and then change it so that it now takes on the properties of the default settings? This seems like it would be a pretty basic function.

It seems I can take a railing that I have made, and make it so the default settings will be that of that railing, but how do I make a railing change to poses the current defaults? Some things change automatically when you change the defaults but apparently railings do not. It seems like I should be able to click on the railing and tell it to change so that it will be the railing type that I have set in the defaults.

Thanks for the answer. I tried that whole zip thing and couldn't get it to work. So it seems like the easiest answer is to forget about using SKM files and just look for jpegs for my textures etc. Thank you

I have been searching and can't seem to find any information on working with SKM files. I use 3dwarehouse a lot and it is great for the SKP files but if I want to use some of their texture files I am not able to import them to a new material in Chief. I don't have sketchup so going back to that to convert them is not an option.

Thanks, that does help. The thing is, I never drew any extra walls or anything like that. It's hard to know if a drawings has somehow gotten uncleaned up. When I tried to pull that wall back like you suggested, it didn't let me. The wall just kept generating. But I think when I went to a camera view and clicked on that section and deleted it and the rest seems to stay, I was basically accidentally doing the same thing you were saying to do. Here is another puzzle that I assume is related to these walls somehow having become "unclean": Both these roofs have boxed eves but I can't get the one side to build that way. I deleted it and mirror copied to correct one over and it is still the same and the one with the correct boxed in eve the gable frieze board doesn't go all the way down. I think it is like this in that plan I uploaded earlier. So when you say you keep plans "clean", well is there a way to know they are "dirty"? As far as I know I didn't draw any extra walls or don anything unclean. I knew it had something to do with those walls and I was fiddling with them trying to get the siding to not protrude so at that point I may have done something that dirtied it up but the problem existed before that. How did you go about analyzing the problem?

Well, dragging that wall up didn't seem possible, it just kept coming back. I set the ceilings to default and that didn't do anything but then I deleted a wall there, (I think, I was just fiddling around), and it fixed. Still, why in the world would just the siding on any wall stick through the roof? It's a rhetorical question, I am used to some things in Chief being just not explainable. Thanks!

I can't figure out why my siding on this wall wants to stick through the roof Wall problem.plan

I have had problems with squirrels chewing through the ez screen plastic windows so for our current 3 season porch project I found these https://www.monray.com/ glass wall products. I just drew a very simple representation of one in their 81.25x37.25 size and I have the plan file attached if anyone wants it. If you do like Alaskan Son says and save as a fixture and have it insert into wall it works pretty well. Although I don't know if you can stretch it like a regular window. Anyway, it was the first time I had done this and I was happy with how it turned out. It will work for my purposes for this project. Mon-Ray glass wall 37.25x81.25.plan

As long as I have worked with Chief I have had this problem with materials. Same wall and materials but the upper floor sections have this glare or something. Sometimes it's darker, on this one it is a glare or lighter color, almost as if the material has a shine to it or something. I have read about similar problems on the forum and I have made every possible adjustment in the cameras etc and it is always the same. I can't load the plan, it is way to big, but you hopefully get the idea.

I am thinking that what I am asking here is not possible. My thought was that I could tweak my 360 renderings a little bit in a photo editing program and then upload them in place of one that I already have there and I wouldn't have to send a new link out for someone to look at it, it would always just be the same link and would get updated with my new picture. I know I can do it from my CA program but I think it would be nice if I could do it from a 360 panorama picture saved to my computer. Probably time for me to get a better computer so I can generate the graphics I want right from my machine...

I see that I can replace/overwrite a 360 file on my Chief cloud when I export and I see that I can upload a 360 panorama from my computer to my Chief cloud but I don't see a way to replace a 360 Panorama on my Chief cloud with one from my computer? The idea is I can update the cloud file so that the same link that I use to share it will still work. I can touch up my 360 file in a photo program so I would rather do it that way rather than straight from my CA export tab.

I guess I am just another guy a little bit non-plussed with the 3d viewer. I have accepted we can't get the physically based camera but it would be nice if we could get the lines drawing over the standard view. (Yes, I realize I can do it with PDFs etc).

I am wondering how you got the lines drawn over your framing drawing to show up on the 3d viewer here?

Hi Glenn, I did see it and I like the idea. I may try and play with that in the future. The nice thing about that is it cuts around the windows. Or at the windows. Anyway, the log homes we built back in the 80s and 90s that I am often going back to for remodel are quite a different animal. We actually used logs taken right out of the woods from local loggers and then we peeled them with a draw-knife. That was my job in the early days of my time here in the woods. But I quickly graduated to using chainsaw and axes and chisels to carve these logs one by one and stack them up. That is what I spent the last 15 years of the 20th century doing. Later we moved on to conventional construction and I am now 62 and have been mostly working with designing homes and running the business for the last decade or so. More than anyone wants to know I am sure, but that way of building had the first logs being half logs and then they were stacked up alternating sides and alternating the tapers on the logs to bring the walls up level. More or less. It was a very inexact craft. So when it comes to cutting in the window holes later, they rarely fall between logs. We always cut a piece out of the log above and below. I know I don't have to make my drawings with this detail and I am thinking I might still be able to do it with your molding idea alternating the height of the moldings on north and south walls etc. I would also need to do it on the inside... Anyway this thread has been very helpful and I appreciate all the suggestions. I am way ahead in my solid manipulation from where I was a few days ago. Here I have a picture of the house I am doing the "as built" drawing for and a picture of my drawing so far. Still a bit of work to do. Thanks again.

Thanks Eric, this is making a big difference.

Stacking up poly lines would be a simple process if they just did what you want them to do. I draw one of my cylinders or even a block and try to move it and it will change elevations, it will move higher or lower in relation to finish floor. Sometimes it happens when I just grab a side of an object and stretch it, it will suddenly be a good distance lower or higher. I can't figure it out, it makes me want to pull my hair out, (but I have no hair left). Sometimes I have an object on one side of the house and I reflect copy it in plan view to the other side and presto, it is 6 feet underground. Sometimes I open an object and it is the correct distance from finished floor and sometimes I open an object that I know is about 80" Above FF and it says it is negative 115" below FF. What's that about? Sometimes I split a long cylinder by subtracting a block out of the middle and suddenly one end of the piece drops a foot into the ground. I could stack up logs very quickly and get this done but I am constantly fighting these crazy behaviors. I am talking about just plain freshly drawn cylinders or square cubes whether I draw them in plan view or an elevation. There seems to be no rhyme or reason to how they will behave when I try to manipulate them. The plan is too large to attache and I doubt if I can replicate the behavior in a sample plan but maybe someone can enlighten me on what governs the height from FF on these ployline solids?

Thanks Rene, I tried that and it seems to help sometimes and other times not so much. Same with the regular polyline solid, sometimes the subtraction works fine other times no. I think the best workaround is to use separate pieces of log like Eric suggested. Anyway, I appreciate all the help as always. My other question was concerning the facet angle setting: When I copy the object, it will retain the same facet angle setting but when I cut the object in some way it reverts back to the automatic facet angle setting. I can't find anything in the default settings where I can make that automatic facet angle what I want it to be. Thanks again.

Thank you, that was the conclusion I was coming to too. Any thoughts on my second question: Also, I change my facet angle on the logs to minimize surface counts. When I copy the object, it will retain the same facet angle setting but when I cut the object n some way it reverts back to the automatic facet angle setting. I can't find anything in the default settings where I can make that automatic facet angle what I want it to be.