Ange822

Hello!

Is there a way to have invisible walls for a deck / not have a drywall finish show on the deck face board?

I have been having this issue for a while, to fix it i just manually drag the wall up above the decking and it disappears, but wondered if there was a setting in the wall or deck that I'm missing that could make this easier. I seem to have this issue when drawing invisible walls around a stairway for a deck as well. 

Thanks in advance!

1 minute ago, Kbird1 said:

You should be able to block them together (architectural block) , you can also turn it into a symbol if it's a combo you use regularly and add it to you user Library, the A.Block can also be added to your User Library too actually with the advantage of the faucet remaining changable if needed.

 

M.

Okay great thanks! I have blocked them before but wondered if there was another way  

Hi there - I am wondering if there is a way to place a faucet into a base cabinet and have it "snap" or move with the cabinet when it's moved. (Similar to when a sink is inserted). I played around with the "options" tab within the fixture but nothing has made it "snap" to the cabinet.  

Since I started using chief I have just been selecting the cabinet + the faucet and moving it together, but I just wondered if there was an easier way as I would like to share some vanities with some colleagues. 

Thanks in advanced!  

On 2/12/2025 at 7:12 PM, DBCooper said:

 

In theory, that should work.  Might be a problem with not setting it for the right room(s) or you set it for a floor but you are seeing a ceiling (or vice versa).  I would usually set this up in my floor/ceiling defaults and then make sure all my rooms are set to "use default".  If that doesn't help, you should post your plan and someone can look into it more.

 

Okay great I finally got it to work! I used the default floor structure / re-built the framing. I really don't have much knowledge with the 3D automatic framing but would like to get a better understanding.

On 2/13/2025 at 11:38 AM, robdyck said:

If you are changing this on a per room basis instead of for the entire floor, then you will also need to move the framing to the next group.

Hi Rob - I did try changing the group, but again don't have much knowledge here, I tried just doing #2? Maybe this also contributed to it working?

Thank you everyone for your help!

7 hours ago, MPDesign said:

Have you created the floor framing? Your 3rd picture shows that they don't exist yet. No red plus in the used column. 

Thank you I had not! I don't typically use the framing functions but would like to start. I have specified "Lumber" as the type of floor joist, and it keeps showing as "I-Joist". Any ideas on why this is? I have tried "re-build framing" function. 

4 hours ago, robdyck said:

This seems like it would more likely be caused not having any deck framing, but not because of removing the ceiling in a basement room.

Thanks Rob that did the trick!  I have issues with the deck framing disappearing quite often. Not sure if this is a common pain point, I have tried looking up in forums and would like to start a new topic at some point.

I tried to remove the ceiling layer - but unfortunately the floor joists from above aren't showing. Also now have a blank area where the rim joist / floor joists would be at the sundeck. Any ideas? 

Thank you @DBCooper and @robdyck - these are both great solutions  

Hello - I have had this issue before and have just drawn a molding line in the past, but wondered if there was a solution.

When drawings a stone skirting using a pony wall, I add a "wall cap" as a stone sill. I make it the same height as the window trim (3 1/2") as it would look best lined up.

However, when I put the pony wall at that height / wall cap to be exactly where the 3 1/2" window trim is, it doesn't show the wall cap being continuous. 

I would like it at 39 1/2" high. If I specify the pony wall as 39" high it shows the wall cap being continuous (this is what I want but at 39 1/2").

Trim / wall cap colours changed to show better for examples;
 

25 minutes ago, robdyck said:

Your results may be dependent on the tools you've used. Chief models the driveways / sidewalk / curbs to meet, but they aren't creating actual terrain elevation data so the grass region does not conform. Manual terrain input can override this.

Another easy way to avoid that is to use a rolled gutter / curb / sidewalk, if that's regionally appropriate. Personally, I find that Chief's curb / driveway tools don't provide me with the control and realism that I prefer.

Thanks so much for responding Rob. That is unfortunate to hear.

I kind of cheated the way it looks, I changed the curb to 4" high, and then specified the "terrain to top" to 4".

So the driveway doesn't slope down to the road, but the curb makes it appear that it might be! It will do for now! 

Hello, I'm wondering if anyone has has issues with the 3D grass region transitioning to a driveway / road.

I assume it is because I have the road / curb 6" lower than the driveway and sidewalk. I haven't had luck researching this issue.

It doesn't look too back when I do a camera view / perspective crop but I still notice it!

Thanks very much in advanced.

I wonder if there is a light that is casting a shadow, you could try "unchecking" cast shadow on the ceiling light?

I've had to uncheck this for some PBR views I have done in the past.

21 hours ago, robdyck said:

Thanks for the offer! I can tell you that I would not use it simply because you and I have different needs for these types of components. My guess is that your work with your employer gives you the need to re-use some of these. In my work of custom homes, every time I need timber components they really are unique to the project and I have to be careful not to re-use them!

Okay no worries! Yes that is correct, I am sharing these with other colleagues so our plans can be more cohesive. Thanks for all your help Rob! 

@robdyck Thank you for your response and recommendations, they are greatly appreciated!

I don't have any experience with the trusses so I will have to look into that! Great idea!

I have created a user catalog for now so I can share it with my colleges. I included the arch. block incase they need to edit it. (thank you for this recommendation!) I think this best suits how we are using them (for conceptual design only). However in the future I would love to look into the material list / construction component detail drawings / schedules / pricing components that Chief can offer.

I would be happy to share this user catalog I created if you would use it?

@robdyck Okay no worries, I do still have all the blocks I just didn't save them. I will do that for reference. I was hoping it would be easier to modify the symbol after the fact.

Am I missing something though in that Chief article where it says to edit / right click and open the symbol to edit?

Thanks for your help with this!

Is there a way to edit a symbol after creating it?

I have been trying to research symbols vs architectural block etc. but for this instance I made these symbols into "fixtures" so I could specify the elevation reference from the roof. When I right click on the user catalog item, I don't see "open object in X15" like specified in the Article from chief below.

When I "edit CAD Block" it only lets me edit the 2D plan view CAD block, not the 3D symbol.

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00809/converting-an-object-into-a-symbol.html

Roof Trims seem to be giving me issues, if I toggle them on / off it seems to go back onto the roof. But has anyone ever had this happen? 

15 hours ago, glennw said:

It is a Molding Polyline on floor 2

Roofs, Trim layer which is locked.

Thank you Glenn. I wasn't sure how that got there but I did try a polyline before playing around with the shadow board / frieze boards. I can't seem to figure out the best way to go about doing this decorative molding.

I have been playing around with a shadow or frieze board to achieve a molding along the roofline. However, now I have tried deleting it but it's still showing? 

Chief file also attached. Thank you in advance!

Remmer - Existing House - Nov 10 2024.zip

@DBCooper and @mtldesigns thank you both for your help this solved the issues I was having!

I know this is minor, but I have noticed this happening before, the drywall interior layer / ceiling drywall layer showing through to the exterior just slightly. Any ideas?

45 minutes ago, Mark3D said:

You have your walls defined wrong open wall with window in it go to wall types move layer 1 to exterior layers by selecting layer 1 and click on move up

Hi Mark - thank you for your response. How do I keep the exterior surface where I "snap onto" when moving the wall etc? The little "node" moved to that layer now if that makes sense.

Hello,

I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations on how to replicate a decorative molding piece that follows the fascia of this existing home I am re-drawing. I have found a similar molding that can likely work but wondered if there might be an easy way to replicate it? Would a 3D molding line or 3D solid work?

Thanks in advance!

Hello,

Wondering if anyone would have any idea of why my floor / roof structure isn't showing in the 3D view / why the exterior classing isn't covering it.

I have never had this happen before. I'm not sure if it's because of the wall type I had to make for this project? See attached image / plan file.

Thanks in advance!

Remmer - Existing House - Nov 10 2024.plan

On 4/6/2020 at 6:43 PM, Michael_Gia said:

That was it. 
Problem solved. 
Thanks Humble Chief. 
 

...and yes, they were polyline labels. 
Always learning. 

Is there a way to make a "text label" only a certain % of transparent background?

I am trying to utilize the "text label" within the fixtures so it shows the fixture size when it changes size etc. I used to just use a text box and was able to set the transparency of the background colour, but it doesn't seem to be an option for "text labels"?

Fixture "text label" background solid

Fixture "text label" background transparent (100% default?)

No "text label" only a "text box", with setting the background to transparent 15%

thanks in advance!

7 minutes ago, DBCooper said:

Assuming that everything is a solid, then yes, you can make a notch.  Basically, you build another piece for the notch using a solid, move it into the proper position, and then use the poly subtract tool.

 

Amazing thank you so much! @DBCooper

On 10/24/2024 at 11:07 AM, robdyck said:

No insertion point for an arch. block. I'd suggest saving the block for future editing, but also converting to a fixture. Set the height reference 'From Roof', about -7" to top.

Then, it'll be pretty quick to place in roof peaks.

Thank you for your help @robdyck I will give that a try!

I have another question I'm hoping maybe you can help me with. I am trying to "notch" the bottom horizontal chord of this 3D solid. Is it possible to just notch 1/2 the beam depth instead of doing a "hole" all the way through? I know it's getting nit picky so if not it's not a big deal I will move the vertical member in front of the horizontal by 1/16". I'm just wondering so the 2 textures going vertical / horizontally aren't right on each other if that makes sense.