SNestor

Does this look correct? 

You need to do this roof manually...you could do some using auto but you'd have to make a lot of edits. Hardly worth the effort. 

This video I made a while back might help you get started;

I made this video for a similar condition a while back...should help you get started;

Weird roof plane...I just recreated a new roof and it worked as expected. 

Post a plan...otherwise we are just guessing. 

Have you tried to create this in another simple test plan...and get different results?

Somtimes the simplest fix is to move the grip handle via the "resize about" control in General Wall Defaults to the inner surface. 

Save yourself a lot of time/trouble...and just place a solid in the space and paint it.

The wall method suggested above is a perfectly good method...if you don't mind spending a lot of time and probably not getting paid to do it...nor, will anyone ever know how you did it...nor, will they care.  Just my two cents.

@tsoftwerks - if you post a plan someone will tell you exactly how to do this. It's quite simple actually.

So...post a plan.

Please post a plan...

First...open defaults, go to FLOORS AND ROOMS>FLOOR LEVELS>FLOOR 0. Make sure you set "Floor to SWT" to "0"

For the patio, First Floor level, you need to set the "Stem Wall Top" to -1.5" so that it matches the floor.

If you make this change on the foundation level...you need to place -1.5" for the "ceiling" 

@Chrisb222 - FYI...you are able to move the frieze in/out, up or down...I just spaced this. So...if you select the roof planes that need adjusting you can use the roof dialogue "frieze" tab and make minor adjustments to get the frieze board to rest on the face of the railing wall beam. 

I don't have this problem...unless I'm not doing what you want?

I'm using X15...

Step 1...mull the two rectangular top windows

Step 2...Select mulled unit and apply a broken arch top

Step 3...Mull the two lower window units

Step 4...Mull the two mulled units together. 

---Done 

@Chrisb222 - I like your method...but, the frieze will only build back to the face of the wall. In the examples below I offset the railing 1.5" to move it back to stack on the foundation...then the frieze will not touch the beam in the railing wall.

If the beam is 3" wider than the wall it works. 

Made you a quick video;

TheDeckGuy71 - Exposed Rafters over a deck - Watch Video

I did this automatically. No frustration required 

The trick is to create a specific wall type for your porches...and then on the "wall properties" tab, specify an offset on the foundation. In this example I specified 1.5". Now...I'm not saying all is perfect when it comes to Chief a Porches and railing walls. I made the beam wide in order for the "frieze" to meet the beam. If you offset the wall...well, the frieze only extends to the face of the wall. But..the foundation part is fairly simple. 

No need for an invisible layer either. 

Open the wall, on the structure tab select “ballon through ceiling”. 

@jtcapa1 - attached is a screen clip showing what Rene suggested...just use a custom gutter profile and adjust the horiz/vert offsets. You do have to turn on gutters for each edge. 

@KnotSquare -

Can you create/post a cad detail of how you want the porch ceiling to look? I'm confused because in your post you state that you don't want at "boxed" eave...but, you want the ceiling of the porch to extend to the back of the subfascia. The porch room ceiling will only extend to the wall that creates the room...it won't extend to the back of the subfascia. 

Also, where exactly does the load bearing main layer of your stud walls on level 1 sit on the ICF foundation wall? Does the frame wall main layer sit directly over the concrete portion of the ICF wall? Does it look like this?

@KnotSquare

See notes on screen clip. 

- Is there supposed to be a beam over the top of the columns? Or...will they be extending to the soffit?

If you post your plan file...someone will give you the "exact" solution. Without a plan...we are all guessing. 

To upload a plan...close the plan and from explorer (windows) drag the file into the post. You may need to zip the file...

Does this look correct?

You have most of the rooms and some foundation walls not set to use "default". I'd start there. Go to Edit>reset to defaults. Choose floor zero...and reset top/bottom of walls and floors/ceilings. This may not fix everything...as you have similar issues on the Floor 1. 

Made you a quick video;

Chief Architect Premier X15 - 22 November 2023 - Watch Video

16 hours ago, Jake1976 said:

Thanks Steve, I really appreciate your thoughts.  Another question on railings:  This project is a commercial apartment building and the bottom of the railing will need to extend 12" + the tread width (which is 11") so it will need to extend 23" beyond the first nosing.  I see the check box for the handrail extension, but it doesn't seem to work with this railing.  Any ideas? 2680.plan

I'm unable to download the plan...it says it's unavailable. So...not sure what your exact condition is. 
 

You will discover that you need a wall that extends at minimum to the end of the stair in order for the auto rail extension to work. The stair tool is just a "basic" tool...and it has needed some improvements for a long time. 
 

@bdammeyer - I posted a fixed plan above. 

15 minutes ago, solver said:

 

Did I miss something in the video I posted?

Nothing big...but you didn't mention to change the default floor/ceiling platform. To me...this is something that should be done before you start drawing, but...if you forget to change and all your rooms are using "default"...all you have to do is change the floor/ceiling platform...and, you need to check the framing defaults to make sure the rim joist and joist spacing is correct.