Rookie65

I did read it, and there was no mention of you copy and pasting. Just that it only took you ten minutes to do this with no design skills. So get your stories right and things might go easier for you. And don't edit it, as we've seen the post. If people have contacted you about wanting to help you, count yourself fortunate, and use them for their free information before they get wise to your motives. Since you wanted an apology from me, here it is; I'm sorry you don't get it.

Face it, Wacky, this post, and your comments, has 550 views, 26 down votes, and no signs of anyone wanting to "help" you. So maybe try letting this horse die a peaceful death. Plus, the roofs you show with "This took me all of 10 minutes and I have no experience when it comes to designing a roof/front section." look nothing like your house and can be copied/pasted from a home plan site. Stop wasting people's time here.

You want to keep going? You also made claims and assumptions about me. Neither of us know the other, so why not just let it go? You found help, so you should be all set to get your result. My thought on the playing with the designs was to turn auto roofs on, then try different combinations of gables and hips and see if something there gets you close. Then manual roofs could possibly clean it up for you. That was my idea for you, and if you took it as a personal attack, I can't help that. We can agree to have different ideas on this subject, and that's fine.

I wondered what happened to David. He went away suddenly and that is sad to hear. Good luck with your project. You don't know me either, yet your impression of me is incorrect.

No one owes you an idea. Did you buy anything from those people you had come to your house? Or were you just asking for their free advice and suggestions? You have the program and only you will know the style roof you want. Play around with it at your leisure and come up with something you want. The rest of us don't "know" you, so it's guessing on our parts. Here's my idea for you...maybe look at some house plan websites and something will make sense to you. Plus, you don't include information on what part of the country it's being built in. That makes a difference in knowing if it should be flat or pitched, trusses or stick frame, etc. You have been chasing roof ideas for a while, and it doesn't sound like you've had any responses or interest in people "helping" you. Maybe that's a big hint for you. And just because you said you don't expect someone to work for free, those of us with experience know that's exactly what you want.

Yes, it is very different. Most interior designers and contractors charge a consultation fee. This is what separates the serious people from the time-wasters. We don't just walk around handing out free advice because someone doesn't want to make the effort to learn on their own. As for a restaurant, you go there with the expectation that you will find something on the menu you will like, and subsequently pay for it. It's not like servers from each restaurant stop by your car to bring you something to try and hope you'll want to order it. Your expectation of "a confident and experienced designer would immediately have some creative ideas and have no problem sharing them." is expecting them to give you ideas with the risk of a) not getting the project, or b) you taking their idea, figuring out how to draw it yourself, and ignoring their request for payment. For them to be confident and experienced comes from many years of practice and learning. For you to expect multitudes of people to spend time on your project for free, that's a selfish ask. Learn how the program works and try it yourself. If I remember right, you also used to be on the Home Designer forum regularly and have been asked, multiple times, to create/fill out your signature so people know what version and year software you are using. Yet you still haven't.

Putting a "-" before the number raises the terrain. Read closer what the instruction says. It says terrain below floor. Also, home designer has their own forum. This is the chief architect forum. Post questions in the "Q&A" section

I had found an ACQ PT lumber material online and changed the material to that in my master sheet. For a decent color match to it, use the color "Meadow Grass"

Have you looked at the Simpson door bonus catalog for the glass one? Even the TruStile may help with the 3 panel one. The panel/x-buck one might be the hardest to find an option for.

Did you look in the bonus catalogs?

Go the bonus catalogs Handrails No.01 Fittings. There are several handrail styles to pick from And yes, if you are using the Home Designer series, and not Chief Architect Premier, you should be posting on the Hometalk site, not the Chieftalk. Please fill out your signature as well so everyone knows what program and version year you are using.

Think of the math. If the railings are both set for the same height, yet the lower steps end up being around 15" lower than the main stair (depending on your riser height), that's where it comes from. Look at some of the stair parts catalogs out there and notice how starting and landing newels are different.

Well, I don't know the particular local codes there. If you can make those notes and changes, I can get your sketches into a ".plan" file and send it back to you. Then you can change it as needed.

Where are you located?

I'm not sure even a truss company would enjoy or be able to do that one!

I believe the Matterport Pro 3 will now do exteriors as well. It's about a $5K investment which is over what I am comfortable with. Especially since they don't have a buyback program for the Pro 3. We all have our own ways of getting to the end results.

Compared to the time it takes to measure a job by hand is where the real savings show up. Can scan a house in maybe 90 minutes versus 3 to 4 hours, or more

The camera was about $3K. A yearly plan can start around $680, I think. The plan back from them starts at $15

Clients like the 3D captures with the Matterport, and being able to measure the scans if needed. Great to forward to their subcontractors so they can get an look at the job before going to a site. Good rule of thumb is to check everything before ordering materials. Yet to get a close layout for an "as-built," it's a huge time saver.

It would be helpful if the roof PDF was facing the same direction as the drawing. Though in looking at it, the ridge for the main roof is not straight like the PDF shows. That could be from a number of factors, yet without having the plan to look at, it's hard to pinpoint.

I have a Matterport Pro 2 that I use for interior scans. I can't say it's as accurate as they claim it is, yet it does save a lot of time from measuring by hand. Especially for additions where the town wants the existing house layout with it. When I am on site, I will use a laser to measure a room's length and width. That way when I get the floor plan PDF back from Matterport, I can set the scale on the plan from the dimensions I took to get the floor plan from them closer to actual size. Then I will trace over the walls to make my plan from it.

He hasn't been on the HD forum since May 14th..

I will see it in HD Pro as well sometimes. It can happen when walls are set to rebuild automatically. If you click on the wall in question, sometimes it will read as a "Polyline produced by 3D wall editor." The layers can build up, and you can delete them. When you get to the note that it is an auto generated wall, don't delete any more and see what it looks like. Sometimes that will take care of it. It could also be what the other folks posted, yet I wanted to offer this suggestion as well.

Looks to me like your trusses are going perpendicular to the roof pitch? If they were parallel, then you might be able to get an opening in the end if you don't use an end truss and just stick frame the gable wall?

Doors and windows are typically called out in width by height as a common practice, at least from what I was taught and always seen