country

I would also like to know if we can extend the barge board to cover the end of the gutter. It's a very standard detail but I haven't been able to find a way to show it.

Thanks Michael. I will give that a try in the morning. Obviously, something I must have done wrong when setting up the template plan. I'm surprised Tech Support didn't notice that. Eric. I never "paint" anything unless I am doing some interior work after the construction drawings are complete or I use a seperate, save as, plan.

Is this something I will have to do all the time in X10? It was never required before. If you changed the wall type and it had a different siding material, it changed. I have had this happen on a couple X10 jobs and thought it was because I brought them in from X9 (tech support thought this too) but this one was started in X10 with a brand new template.

This is a design job I am currently working on. I am attempting to show shingle siding in some of the gable ends. I have changed the wall type on the upper front gable and garage gable, turned off auto attic walls but it is remaining siding to match the existing walls below. I'm sure I have done it this way before but maybe not. I will now turn Chief off and restart. I thought I would ask here before sending to tech support in case it is something obvious. Tech support takes a while (or more) to get back and I would really like to keep working on this exterior so I can get it off to clients. I could use the material painter but that is a last ditch option that I shouldn't have to use. AtticWalls041218..zip

With a layout image, you just grab a corner and shrink it to fit the space.

I generally use 2x6 exterior with batts or spray foam. 2" rigid with nailers on 2x4 renos. My question is, what spacing do you use on staggered studs and how does that affect drywall application and rigidity?

This fix, from tech support, is what I have to do fairly frequently. It fixes it for that session but then reappears in the next day or two. I don't worry about it until I am taking a break because the program still works fine. Annoying, but it is what it is!

I have been getting the disconnected error message fairly frequently. It is connected because the messages appear in my start up window but I still have to go in and disconnect the program and restart with log in to stop the message from popping up regularly, while I work. My desktop is hard wired to internet because Chief was slower using the modem wifi.

I will watch the video later. It will probably help my work flow. There doesn't seem to be enough hours in the week lately. Thanks. Unchecking the XOR box worked! Obviously something I missed learning over the last few years☹️ Thanks everyone, for the help. Always appreciated!

I had already moved ahead on this design before I sent this in. I will see what it now does with the new lines and send the plan and some screen captures when I have a minute.

When I start a design, I use CAD boxes that are on the CAD Default layer and then change them to CAD Guidelines to start work with walls. When doing a second floor I would like the reference layer to show these boxes from the first floor but only outlines of some boxes show. Is this normal behavior or may I be doing something that doesn't work with the reference layers? I can copy and paste in place but when working on a story and half, I'd rather not. I thought all the CAD boxes and lines from the main level should show up on the second level. Maybe wrong thought. Reference Layer Plan.plan

This problem may just be related to the plan I'm currently completing. There have been another few things that tech support is working on. All may be related to X9 to X10 migration.

If I do an "update all" for my elevations and sections (which I do after a number of plan revisions) I have noticed a few issues. My garage doors have become see through, only the panel lines show, and some of the exterior doors have double opening indicators on them. If I them select them and update individually, they correct themselves. This is currently happening on a plan I brought forward from X9 so I will wait and see if it happens on a new plan started with my new X10 template.

Sorry about the delay in reporting back. I tried a couple of the programs to attempt to fix the mesh and make it waterproof. I found it required a similar learning cure to properly using photoshop or gimp. Much more knowledge than I was willing to put in the time to learn. My client was going to see if the printer had someone knowledgeable in mesh repair to make the model waterproof. I haven't heard anything but they were away for a month so I may still.

Thank you Mick. I have already downloaded the program and imported the file. It actually looks pretty good. Now I have something to play with over the weekend. It looks like there are training samples and lots of help files. I'll report back on how things go.

I agree with you Perry and would never have attempted this if a client hadn't asked. I said we had the file format to export so we are hoping it will work.

The person doing the print has told me to be sure the model is waterproof. The one comment I could find on the forum was that Chief in X8 wasn't waterproof. Does anyone understand what I have to do? I do see gaps in some areas between the soffit and roof and was wondering if I should make the roof a solid slab or ? I have sent a note into tech support to see if anyone there knows anything but I would think someone in our group would have done something like this. (Only $100 - 200 for a scale model!). The printing company did give me a list of file formats that would be easier for them to fix but none of them are supported by Chief export.

Chopsaw I did a full STL export of the current file and then opened it in a new plan file. It comes in as a library object and looks exactly how it should. ( I even left the terrain , trees, walks, etc.) Now I can get rid of all the items I don't need for the model and work from there. Thank you very much for that suggestion. It will save me lots of back and forth with the printer to start with.

I didn't realize I could import and open the file. That will be a big help. I will definitely report back on what I find and if I get a plan that works well I will post it. If things don't work, I will also let everyone know why.

I hope a few users have done this type of project. I can see where items such as gutters, piles, footings could be eliminated to decrease the complexity. I did find one discussion that mentioned Chief wasn't "watertight"??? Hopefully this isn't the case with a proper plan. I am going to read up in the reference manual because there wasn't much of anything except how to export STL in Help.

A client wants to get a 3D print of their house plan. Has anyone done this with success? The printer requires a STL file, which I can do but I would like to know how many layers to turn off and what to leave on before exporting. (eg. Interior walls, interior doors staircases, etc.). Should I save a copy of the plan and just clean it up for the export? The person doing the printing does professional printing for different manufacturers so is quite knowledgable but I would like the best export I can to start with. Any and all suggestions welcome.

Same here. I also show any cantilevers for the above floor with a reference set of the exterior walls.

This will just be standard framing. The builder doesn't have the time or materials to do his own house in timber so we are using a vault with false timber beams over the main living space. I was just going to try using solids until I read this thread. Learning to do something so it shows properly in section would be ideal. Normally, around here, I would be using full vault trusses and not be worried about the venting but he wants to stick frame.

I would have really liked to have attended but I am out with clients all afternoon and then have to curl tomorrow night. I haven't had a chance to try but I may be able to handle this with the explanations you and Michael gave. Sounds like Leo needs this to work much sooner than me. I'll post again if I can't work it out.

I believe it will be one layer of 3" timber purlins. The builder is a timber craftsman but is doing his own home on a budget with leftover materials. Venting on this area is fairly straight forward (open gables) but I am meeting with him later this week to confirm final design changes and will ask. On the design drawings I just thickened the roof layers to get everything lined up but on this final plan I want the structure to be correct for sections and detailing. (Or as close to correct as possible.) Thank you for the offer and if you do a session I would appreciate participating.