Trying to figure out how to make log walls

[MN_JohnH]

I have read all the threads on log walls and have tried different approaches but have settled on making the wall out of glass and then just adding cylindrical polyline solids and stacking them up.
The problem I am having is when the window hole has to cut into part of a log.
So I am creating a square block the size of the window and then subtracting it from the log solids.
Some times it works fine but often I get this distorted effect with the remaining portion of the log that has been cut.
It seems there might be a workaround but I can't find it.
But really, why would this be happening in the first place?

 

Log problems.plan

[MN_JohnH]

1 hour ago, MN_JohnH said:

I have read all the threads on log walls and have tried different approaches but have settled on making the wall out of glass and then just adding cylindrical polyline solids and stacking them up.
The problem I am having is when the window hole has to cut into part of a log.
So I am creating a square block the size of the window and then subtracting it from the log solids.
Some times it works fine but often I get this distorted effect with the remaining portion of the log that has been cut.
It seems there might be a workaround but I can't find it.
But really, why would this be happening in the first place?

 

Log problems.plan 4.01 MB · 0 downloads

Also, I change my facet angle on the logs to minimize surface counts. When I copy the object, it will retain the same facet angle setting but when I cut the object n some way it reverts back to the automatic facet angle setting. I can't find anything in the default settings where I can make that automatic facet angle what I want it to be.

[MN_JohnH]

6 minutes ago, solver said:

 

Chief has issues with roundish objects. 

 

I'd try making the walls from individual logs, shorter ones each side of the window, for example. For partial cuts like above and below the window, use 3 logs. One with the cutout the same width as the window, then a shorter section either side. You could probably union them together once assembled.

Thank you, that was the conclusion I was coming to too.

Any thoughts on my second question:
Also, I change my facet angle on the logs to minimize surface counts. When I copy the object, it will retain the same facet angle setting but when I cut the object n some way it reverts back to the automatic facet angle setting. I can't find anything in the default settings where I can make that automatic facet angle what I want it to be.

[Renerabbitt]

54 minutes ago, MN_JohnH said:

Thank you, that was the conclusion I was coming to too.

Any thoughts on my second question:
Also, I change my facet angle on the logs to minimize surface counts. When I copy the object, it will retain the same facet angle setting but when I cut the object n some way it reverts back to the automatic facet angle setting. I can't find anything in the default settings where I can make that automatic facet angle what I want it to be.

I thought I responded in the other post but you should convert your circle based logs into polyline based for more predictable behavior

[MN_JohnH]

43 minutes ago, Renerabbitt said:

I thought I responded in the other post but you should convert your circle based logs into polyline based for more predictable behavior

Thanks Rene,
I tried that and it seems to help sometimes and other times not so much.
Same with the regular polyline solid, sometimes the subtraction works fine other times no.
I think the best workaround is to use separate pieces of log like Eric suggested.
Anyway, I appreciate all the help as always.

My other question was concerning the facet angle setting: When I copy the object, it will retain the same facet angle setting but when I cut the object in some way it reverts back to the automatic facet angle setting. I can't find anything in the default settings where I can make that automatic facet angle what I want it to be.

 

Thanks again.

[glennw]

If you can use full log coursing (no horizontal cuts), which is probably preferable anyway, you may have some luck using a couple (depending on your window heights) of stacked molding polylines.

It may also depend on you corner detail - ie, mitred?

 

 

[glennw]

It's not much more work to do extended corners.

 

 

[MN_JohnH]

Stacking up poly lines would be a simple process if they just did what you want them to do.
I draw one of my cylinders or even a block and try to move it and it will change elevations, it will move higher or lower in relation to finish floor.
Sometimes it happens when I just grab a side of an object and stretch it, it will suddenly be a good distance lower or higher.
I can't figure it out, it makes me want to pull my hair out, (but I have no hair left).
Sometimes I have an object on one side of the house and I reflect copy it in plan view to the other side and presto, it is 6 feet underground.
Sometimes I open an object and it is the correct distance from finished floor and sometimes I open an object that I know is about 80" Above FF and it says it is negative 115" below FF.
What's that about?
Sometimes I split a long cylinder by subtracting a block out of the middle and suddenly one end of the piece drops a foot into the ground.
I could stack up logs very quickly and get this done but I am constantly fighting these crazy behaviors.
I am talking about just plain freshly drawn cylinders or square cubes whether I draw them in plan view or an elevation. There seems to be no rhyme or reason to how they will behave when I try to manipulate them.
The plan is too large to attache and I doubt if I can replicate the behavior in a sample plan but maybe someone can enlighten me on what governs the height from FF on these ployline solids?

 

[MN_JohnH]

30 minutes ago, solver said:

 

Try using absolute instead of from finished floor. With solids, the program sometimes has trouble deciding where finished floor is, but absolute always seems to work.

Thanks Eric, this is making a big difference.

[glennw]

2 hours ago, MN_JohnH said:

Stacking up poly lines would be a simple process if they just did what you want them to do.

Just in case you missed it.

The method I used stacked multiple moldings on a single Molding Polyline.

On single level project, you may have to use 2 or 3 polylines depending on what height your door and widows are.

Use the No Molding option at the door and windows - or if you are lucky, you can use the auto feature to do that.

If there are no windows or doors, it's just one molding polyline with stacked moldings, very quick to stack using Auto Offset and Make Copy.

And then make the window/door openings with the No Molding on Selected Edge which breaks all the moldings in one go. 

 

 

 

[MN_JohnH]

22 hours ago, glennw said:

Just in case you missed it.

The method I used stacked multiple moldings on a single Molding Polyline.

On single level project, you may have to use 2 or 3 polylines depending on what height your door and widows are.

Use the No Molding option at the door and windows - or if you are lucky, you can use the auto feature to do that.

If there are no windows or doors, it's just one molding polyline with stacked moldings, very quick to stack using Auto Offset and Make Copy.

And then make the window/door openings with the No Molding on Selected Edge which breaks all the moldings in one go. 

 

 

 

Hi Glenn, I did see it and I like the idea. I may try and play with that in the future. The nice thing about that is it cuts around the windows. Or at the windows.
Anyway, the log homes we built back in the 80s and 90s that I am often going back to for remodel are quite a different animal.
 We actually used logs taken right out of the woods from local loggers and then we peeled them with a draw-knife. That was my job in the early days of my time here in the woods.
But I quickly graduated to using chainsaw and axes and chisels to carve these logs one by one and stack them up. That is what I spent the last 15 years of the 20th century doing. Later we moved on to conventional construction and I am now 62 and have been mostly working with designing homes and running the business for the last decade or so.
More than anyone wants to know I am sure, but that way of building had the first logs being half logs and then they were stacked up alternating sides and alternating the tapers on the logs to bring the walls up level. More or less.  It was a very inexact craft. So when it comes to cutting in the window holes later, they rarely fall between logs. We always cut a piece out of the log above and below. I know I don't have to make my drawings with this detail and I am thinking I might still be able to do it with your molding idea alternating the height of the moldings on north and south walls etc. I would also need to do it on the inside...

Anyway this thread has been very helpful and I appreciate all the suggestions. I am way ahead in my solid manipulation from where I was a few days ago.

Here I have a picture of the house I am doing the "as built" drawing for and a picture of my drawing so far. Still a bit of work to do.

Thanks again.

[mthd97]

It certainly would be nice if we had a custom wall profile to create log homes in CA ? I like Glenn’s method.

 

I found this topic very interesting and had a quick search online and found out that SoftPlan has an interface for log wall homes. If I was building or designing lots of these homes I would give SP a trial despite just for that purpose.

 

Please see this video.

 

https://youtu.be/cMJRzoWQsGM?si=6cXpz_9lWOZIFELX

 

PS. I don’t use SP but CA because I don’t do log homes.

 

Edit: If I wasn’t concerned about having the log wall corners extending out. I would use Tim Shrocks method for Chief Architect but have the texture going horizontal not vertical as his excellent demonstration shows.

 

https://youtu.be/f1iLmqWi2Es?si=SGeG-pTAm6BNdJf2