GeneDavis Posted October 26, 2019 Share Posted October 26, 2019 You know what I mean. My elevated deck has been successfully railed, but it has an L stairway to the ground. Two flights and a small deck that's the halfway-down landing. Wizards awake! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
javatom Posted October 26, 2019 Share Posted October 26, 2019 You might try using 2 stairways. Make one wider than the other so the railings will be outside the other stairway. Set the wider stair to have treads risers and stringer of "no material. You might need to adjust the start and finish heights of the wider one so the newels will drop to the bottom of the real stairway stringers. I have used this for various reasons on other stairs but not to get the look your going for so I can not confirm that it will work. It is just a thought at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 20 hours ago, javatom said: You might try using 2 stairways. Make one wider than the other so the railings will be outside the other stairway. Set the wider stair to have treads risers and stringer of "no material. You might need to adjust the start and finish heights of the wider one so the newels will drop to the bottom of the real stairway stringers. I have used this for various reasons on other stairs but not to get the look your going for so I can not confirm that it will work. It is just a thought at this point. This does work but I do the opposite, using a manually placed Railing on a Staircase the same width as the Newel (3.5") , this narrow staircase is a copy of the wide (normal) staircase which once setup is dropped vertically 10 -12" ( bottom height) to make it appear as if the Posts go down the side of the Stringers ( add 10 -12" to the Railing height to allow for this ) , this narrow staircase can be placed on it own layer and turned off in 3D or Section views or / and the materials changed to Opening-No Material to make it invisible. Use a Room divider at the Top to stop the Railing joining the Deck Wall if needed , for example if you used the Deck Edge tool for the Deck and your Railing Symbols Gene. This is using the Chief default Cable Railing, the manual railing is on the Right .... the left is a symbol made from the right hand Railing set to reference the Terrain. The Deck railings above are your Symbols Gene.... it seems you made the Post and 2x4 top rail as one piece in SU so it is not possible to turn the Grain on it like the 2x6 Top Cap component piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneDavis Posted October 27, 2019 Author Share Posted October 27, 2019 Thanks! I'll try that. As for my straight symbols, I'll correct them to have differing materials for all the wood parts. I am also shortening them by 6" so the railing height is 36" off deck. The Simpson tension tie product tech details enlightened me. 36 is right for residential and 42 is for multi family and commercial. 36 uses a different tie with a less cumbersome blocking detail underneath. The "Cable Rail Run Panel" and "Cable Rail Corner Panel" models will be uploaded to the 3D Warehouse this afternoon. Edit: trial fit of the SU symbol I built late yesterday for the staircase and landing railings. Final editing to be done. 42" railings up will be corrected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 2 hours ago, GeneDavis said: 36 is right for residential and 42 is for multi family and commercial Locally all Guardrails are 42" including Residential, while Stair railings are 36" M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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