Floating Slab Foundation


Recommended Posts

3 minutes ago, parkwest said:

This article might help you find the answer to your question...

 

http://www.jlconline.com/how-to/foundations/framing-fix-for-a-faulty-foundation_o

 

I can't read the full article - I'm not a JLC member, but I was able to read most of the first paragraph. Based solely on that, I would say that it's unreasonable to expect that the every job will have foundation walls that are 1-1/2" out of level. Indeed, when it happens, creative framing or another solution is required - but that doesn't mean you need to incorporate a fix for every contingency into your construction drawings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, rlackore said:

I understand some of the advantages mentioned by Michael, though it may complicate incorporating braced wall panels using any methods that require exterior wall panel sheathing, and ensuring a continuous load path for uplift. But, it's all in the details.

When the anchor bolts are insufficient for uplift then you go to holdowns attached to 4x4 posts to comply, it all depends on the shear wall length. My framers are also very good dealing with out of square and level buildings, never had a problem they can't fix.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, DRAWZILLA said:

When the anchor bolts are insufficient for uplift then you go to holdowns attached to 4x4 posts to comply, it all depends on the shear wall length. My framers are also very good dealing with out of square and level buildings, never had a problem they can't fix.

 

Perry, it's not about the anchor bolts, is it? It's about the wall-to-sill plate connection. So, sure, there are lots of ways to ensure compliance with uplift requirements - I'm just pointing out that without sheathing extending down over the 2x8 plate, and without the anchor bolts extending up through the wall sole plate, you need to make certain you're designing the sill-plate-to-sole-plate connection correctly, and not relying on a framer to simply hammer in a few 10d commons at 24" oc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, rlackore said:

....... and not relying on a framer to simply hammer in a few 10d commons at 24" oc.

 

...  minimum 8" oc,  but I get your point.....

 

 of course it is better if the anchor bolt goes through all plates,  but then that would defeat one  of Michael's arguments in regards to the difficulty in lining up anchor bolts with holes in sill plate.  As I said before,  I do not use or have seen the double sill condition down here.

 

I appreciate the input from you guys who deal with these issues and I bow down to your expertise.

  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, dshall said:

 

...  minimum 8" oc,  but I get your point.....

 

 of course it is better if the anchor bolt goes through all plates,  but then that would defeat one  of Michael's arguments in regards to the difficulty in lining up anchor bolts with holes in sill plate.  As I said before,  I do not use or have seen the double sill condition down here.

 

I appreciate the input from you guys who deal with these issues and I bow down to your expertise.

I don't think you can do this in California without the anchors going through all the plates, unless you use some "A34's" to connect them at 16" o.c. depending on what the engineer says the spacing needs to be.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, DRAWZILLA said:

I don't think you can do this in California without the anchors going through all the plates, unless you use some "A34's" to connect them at 16" o.c.

 

I am not sure,  but this is similar to how we deal with second floor walls.  We use 16D @ 8" oc at sill plate to rim joist.  So I was thinking sill plate to sole plate with nails could work pending engineers approval.

  • Upvote 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I here you guys regarding uplift, shear transfer etc. but there are many ways to deal with that including the exterior sheathing connection, framing brackets, proper plate nailing, SDS screws, etc.  As Robert said...it's all in the details.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, dshall said:

 

I am not sure,  but this is similar to how we deal with second floor walls.  We use 16D @ 8" oc at sill plate to rim joist.  So I was thinking sill plate to sole plate with nails could work pending engineers approval.

 

Ed Zachary.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Alaskan_Son said:

I here you guys regarding uplift, shear transfer etc. but there are many ways to deal with that including th exterior sheathing connection, framing brackets, proper plate nailing, SDS screws, etc.  As Robert said...it's all in the details.  


I thought that is what we were discussing,  the details.  

  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share