MarkMc

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Posts posted by MarkMc

  1. On 11/18/2022 at 1:45 AM, rysailnot said:

    I have my layers sorted. Is it possible to create various iterations of the same design for my 3D models while keeping everything in one file?

    No, at least very limited and not really for what you are asking.

    On 11/18/2022 at 1:45 AM, rysailnot said:

    I separate my plans into 2 or 3 files,

    Generally what is done as best practice. It's what I have always done and has advantages over any alternative.

    On 11/18/2022 at 1:45 AM, rysailnot said:

    If I save a camera view, does it update to a new material?

    You know you can save a camera in plan A and copy it to Plan B, then Plan C....

    There are some things you can do with referenced sets in plan and/or 3D views but not sure this is easier for what it sounds like you are after. Still something worth looking into as it can be a powerful and useful feature.

     

    For just interiors some folks make extra floors or extra rooms elsewhere with variations- only if structure doesn't matter.

     

    I have one client who often has a 10 to 20 rooms with cabinetry with 3-5 different cabinet defaults. I've taken to making plans based on cabinet defaults.

    Make structure, save, save as A, then B, then C....Plan A uses cab defaults 1 w/ cabinets in rooms 1, 4,6,9; Plan B has cabinet defaults 2 with cabinets in some other rooms...and so on.

    When changes to defaults change this allows all the cabinets in that plan to change.

    When cabinets in a room change those cabinets are cut and pasted into the appropriate plan.

     

    Please fill in your signature- there are posts often about what ( program version and computer info), why (it helps) and how to do that.

  2.  Currently run a Noctua D15, a good PSU, in a Define 7 Compact  w/4 case fans. No heat issues, never throttles, temps rarely break 50 and max briefly hits 70. Temps would likely be a tad higher if OC but haven't seen the need.

  3. 13 hours ago, John_Charles said:

    Also, I'd like to split the wall framing into two sections to show the new framing over the top of the existing (ie extending up) as the framing produced now just shows new taller walls..... Can anyone show me the way to do this?

    This can get part way there. You will still need to edit- I started the edit on the left exterior wall- move one plate, copy that and move down to have double, then trim studs. Some walls are a bit trickier than others but better than all from scratch.

    Framed main floor and ceilings, then with no auto framing on..added a blank second floor, placed open below rooms, made floor structure 0, then moved the room down by 5-1/2".

    Compare structure tab of upper rooms to lower floor.

    image.thumb.png.137c21866fe95e542e60aa38049e1fa4.png

    Higher roof.zip

    • Upvote 1
  4. Another method would be to

    -ctrl select the folders that you know you need and

    then still holding the ctrl key, right click, export. (Might even do that as a couple of groups of folders.)

    Then close Chief, go to your data folder, and delete  User_Library.calib (Or safer yet rename User_Library.calib from dot calib to dot old)

    Open chief and import the exported libraries.

    From the sounds of it I think the hard part is figuring out what you have that you need :)

  5. 19 hours ago, LeahMorgan said:

    Can this be toggled to function separately (left / right)?

    You can turn it off by setting the side separation to "0", you can then add the side separation back using the front configuration panel.

    1. The cabinet must be listed as Framed- if it is meant to be frameless just set : box construction, framed, separation to 3/4" If normal framed then use 1-1/2
    2. On front panel set that side to have 0 separtion.
    3. Now on  front panel select vertical layout and split vertical
    4. Select the new vertical separation and "move left"
    5. Select the new Layout Vertical and delete
    6. Done

    image.thumb.png.6a75c9b922de5ade0a98302d4241b744.png

    • Upvote 1
  6. 11 minutes ago, Gary_Swanson said:

    For some reason some of them change to 2x6 and I can't figure out what is causing this.

    You file has 0 data- either close the file before zipping OR use Backup Entire Project, Backup Plan files Only, send to Zip

    image.png.efc55c739986404840455a09dd72a8af.png

    Just guessing since there is no image and nothing in the file....The most likely thing you are seeing is the post at the wall? or at breaks in your railing walls.

    Go to Rail Style tab- if set to Auto Post Half that will happen.

    image.thumb.png.4528b867f1bcaeee4fe71984d9aca315.pngimage.thumb.png.52ebfc2ef6ca61b138cacf4c5a7e6ff9.png

     

    Change it to Full Post

    image.thumb.png.099039ad5a2c2a66df9cf7faa63a4083.png

  7. 15 minutes ago, Elliot said:

    modify them all but it doesn't change the default.

    For items that are not dynamic defaults I use style palettes. In this case I'd change the default molding, add one tall cab and one wall somewhere. Select the tall cab, make style palette, new, clear all selections, select molding; then click the add button and select wall from drop down, repeat selections. Then use the style palette to spray the room.

    I prefix them all with SP and try to reuse where possible.

    • Like 1
    • Upvote 2
  8. 23 hours ago, jtcapa1 said:

    Unfortunately, the balusters will only go up to the bottom of this custom shape, leaving a gap.

    You can get around that by altering the bounding box. For these I lowered the Z origin and shortened the bounding box.

    1480579425_Boundingboxes.thumb.jpg.272770806b5a014fa9ff38b88c0b6703.jpg

    I also used a molding stack for the top rail which helps a bit with material direction.

    image.thumb.png.e9658bd4525cd6d27b7a8796cf3038c1.png

    I used transform replicate to get it to the edge of the rim. All of that was easy enough....

     

    No matter what I tried there is an issue at one corner ( there might be a way to fix it but I got tired and would just add a  single post if I needed it.)

    image.thumb.png.7ed577d6fe58d083a301345f49f25178.png

    Gets a bit more complicated if you want newel posts

  9. 23 hours ago, GeneDavis said:

    Is it something I can make go away?  And the color, shouldn't be be able to control interior and exterior materials?

    The lines for the gap won't go away using line drawing on top, they do without the lines. The only other way to get total size of mulled unit without lines is to cheat the windows by1/16 each and change the side sash by 1/32. Of course that presents issues with ML and or Schedules (could likely cheat that too though)

    image.thumb.png.25f5da805618e2523698f35933b13b74.png

    While you can't paint the mullion directly it is controlled by the Materials, Trim (Exterior) IF you had exterior casing and painted them it would  change, barring that uise the DBX

    image.thumb.png.ca086021378bd4324205c3ff619c1227.png '

  10. 1 hour ago, Allen43 said:

    macro called "new_label". I don't understand what it does, or even what an oip is

    OIP is the "Object Information Panel".

    image.thumb.png.74e4d9dcb56add347c7361db1a5bcc7a.png

     

    the "new_label" macro reads information you place int the "Enter Label" field in the OIP.

    image.thumb.png.cc3194ef08f40c188b991a2a34c54df8.png

    The reason that is there is that SPs do not transfer "Specify Label" So set the default label to the macro and put the information you want for your label in the "enter label" field. Then it will be transferred when using a SP. I've taken to using that on many objects even is I'm not necessarily going to make a style palette from them.

  11. 6 hours ago, dskogg said:

    I clicked these options, why does it work for applied panels but not your custom panels?

    Been that way a long time, used to have to float the panel in so an improvement.

    6 hours ago, dskogg said:

    Fyi I have been using some styles and now have to make gables and fillers with cabinets because ca doesn’t include panels in styles but includes back splash.. makes no sense? Is there another option?

    Not sure what you mean. Attached a sample, else start a new thread with clear info.

    side gable sample.zip

  12. 9 hours ago, Dermot said:

    you can leave the cabinet 3/4" and stretch the symbol instead.

    thought I said that?

     

    9 hours ago, Dermot said:

    If you are using a 3/4 panel symbol like I am

    Why- only occasionally should a center panel end up flush with the back of a cabinet door. Use a1/4 or 1/8" thick counter, adding typical 1/4" molding, new wainscot panel set to recess 1/16". Then go ahead and have back match front. That's what I did and I just grabbed an old random wainscot panel from my user library. Made a 3/4" cabinet door, stretched depth and converted. EZ, no extra lines (showing).

  13. 8 hours ago, dskogg said:

    Mark how do you get these side panels to be flush with doors and go down to floor?

    Depends- if using the auto paneled or paneled side option it's in the DBX, accessories panel

    image.thumb.png.750029df27c4341576d7b49a22914990.png

    If using a custom face - side panel applied you have need a custom symbol- increase the width and height to what is needed, lock those in the stretch plan panel, set origin so it drops to floor and move to front. (don't remember if you need a left and a right or can use the same one for left and right)