MarkMc

I just use center about object-grid snaps off.

My guess would be to turn off grid snaps. It works for me.

Stumbled on this again, guess I wasn't paying attention. If I were drawing this I would want to have the feet included with the cabinet and to show. In that case you need to keep the toe kick present. IF you remove the toe kick, then to get to the proper height above floor you have to raise the cabinets off of the floor. THEN IF you want feet you have to place them manually. Too much work. Also have not idea why I would want to draw cabinets without counters? Attached 4 cabinets, ALL have feet, only two show them. The fourth cabinet has a molding added to cover the feet. The macro for height remains SIMPLE. You could then just place standard cabinets and apply a style palette to them. The downside is a style palette will not correctly apply the set back to the feet even though it gets listed in the SP. But can be done with a group select after. Cab feet.zip

Not really and I doubt it will ever, nor should it IMO, ever happen. My solution was eventually just ignored 2020. Pretty much as explained in that 2017 post but instead of using 2020 I began dragging and dropping into an online ordering system for brands that have that. Nowadays that should be a majority of brands. Originally, I had libraries of cabinets for that purpose but switched to Style Palettes. Less than two dozen well done will usually take care of most of what is needed. FWIW my two primary brands did not support 2020 and AFAIK still don't. One did not have an online system, the other was full custom and the online system could get complicated (but I still made it work most of the time.) For brands that don't have an online system, are very advanced, or have an overly complicated online system; I set up a spreadsheet template that printed matching the brands order form. I would then copy from the exported sheet to the order sheet. That would still require some manual input for some things (like number of doors/drawers). You could go so far as to eliminate all manual input but that is pretty advanced and not worth the effort. Then yes you have to look up the prices in a pdf catalog but the order sheet can be set up to do ALL of the final calculations. Gets pretty fast with a little practice and a well bookmarked PDF file (you likely need to add your own bookmarks so need a decent PDF editor) I'd be willing to set up one brand and train you on it so you could then do others but for a fee. Or better yet dive in. You will only need to learn some very basic macros and dive into the rabbit hole for a while but a great learning experience.

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Make leg from solid, then convert to a symbol, use advanced options to set stretch planes or zones. Keep the plan in case you need a different variation. (half or 3/4 or something else)

Tried answering this twice but keeps hanging after submit. Been a while but checked and still available. Download free trial of Revit, good for 30 days. You can later subscribe month by month, turn off when not needed. Don't remember what format I converted to in Revit but got symbols into Chief no problem.

I know Bluebeam (now a subscription) does it as I have it. PDF exchange might (a lot cheaper) With either check with them- BB for version but should be the basic, I don't know the exact capability of PDF eExchange but closest thing out there to BB and a fraction of the cost. Sending you a PM. (why the lskdfkldjf does the forum lag or not post half the time using Firefox)

Room divider, place bifold doors (custom door symbol needed?). Cabinet has no bottom, no bottom separation, no toe kick - front is opening with no shelves. I moved the appliances away using transform replicate XXX" before setting cabinet or doors. Adjust the doors in elevation, move appliances back XXX"

angled side cabinet.zip Plan attached showing steps. You will need to fill in the toe kick at the wall with a solid (there are other more complicated ways but not for now :)

Do with cabinets. stalls.zip

First method shown along with two cabinets with nubs removed. One with full height side. drop door.zip

I'm not near computer to check but I believe that if in the DBX select the bottom separation and change the reveal to minus(-) the # you want it to hang down by. Say -1"

I set a key on my trackball to be the Apostrophe and use a separate number pad with my left hand. Type number, hit key for feet, type inches. I use an Elecom Ex-G but there have to be plenty of mice out there that can do this.

Used a pony wall for the front wall too use shower.plan

Where about on the Island? Do you need field measures? About how often?

I not only too kind but also a master. Should we audition for a Chip & Dale remake now

I'd be interested in discussing this with you. 20 yrs KD and dealer- semi and full custom, lots of brands. Freelance drafter for 8 of those, large percentage of clients have been ID's and Cabinet folks. Currently semi retired so not interested in hi volume. Currently only working with one client temporarily. PM me if you want to contact info to see samples and go over things by Zoom.

As DB suggests build it from solids Mantle hood.zip

Use Plan views

It's worth noting that Code, Comment, Description, Manufacturer, and Supplier can be copied by themselves using a style palette. While the custom object fields will always ALL be copied. Hence something your nomenclature is best placed in a custom field, that field is then referenced in the default label. This would leave the above fields available for special purposes (which will eventually occur).

Many of the Leica Disto lasers have an app available that will do what you want. I've used the E7500i for a long time though retired now. (made a half hearted attempt to sell it for a while ). I believe that has been discontinued but newer versions likely work. The differences between the versions have to do with advanced features that allow measuring difficult situations. It can be a bit tricky at first, also was a little annoying changing to new versions which I found unnecessary. I just kept it assigned to X9 which simplified life. I've used it to input directly drawing all new, to input directly to adjust rough drawing, and to record and input manually. Al the fella that taught me eventually switched to shooting the room then input manually. I never decided which I liked better, both have pros and cons. I'd also occasionally had an assistant measure and call out dims to me. This worked really well once a room was done to add electric etc. (though the memory function works just as well as an assistant.) Note that I had clients that tried Canvas and in most cases that was not really accurate great, some were a total disaster-YMMV and that was some time ago. I eventually refused to work with anything supplied by them.

Retired KD here. You're on the right track but not quite. Here's how I approached it. Assign hotkeys to all of the cabinets in the "Build" Menu Not a bad idea to place appliances first even just as place holders. Place you cabinets using the shortcut keys, resize the widths in plan view as you go to what you think they should end up being. (Note that you can resize a cabinet and then just click to add a new one of the same type as the tool remains active) I usually do bases and talls leaving walls for later. I used to keep libraries and used the "replace from library" tool to change the cabinet configuration and that still has it's place but nowadays you want to use Style Palettes. To do that start a "warehouse plan" where you will keep the cabinets you need to make. You don't need to make them all at once. Better to do as you go and learn more about what you need to get from them to place orders. I end up with about 30 cabinets though a functioning set can be half that. (note no need to make both a left and a right in most cases you can just flip the cabinet) When creating the SP- first "Clear All", then select Copy Face Configuration, Component Code, Comment, and Custom Fields. DO NOT include any sizing or anything that can be handled by defaults. Those extra fields you will end up using for ordering information- modifications and such as text. You will still end up configuring some cabinets as you go- this or that appliance combo, some other odd request. I keep a library for each job by name. I save any customized cabinets there since it's easier for me to remember them by the job and less clutter in the warehouse. If one is need on a job the the replace from library tool can be handy or of course you can drag and drop that from the library.

These Search Link "Boolean Operations in CAD"

I just saw you are on X14. I did this in X16. Sorry about that but not doing it over. So here is the how. Start by making a molding Place a molding line using that. Transform replicate, copy that line- I did 12, think 11 is better Space at 19/11. Convert that to cabinet door, set y origin to 1/2" Place in a wall cabinet as side panel inset. Set separations to suit. Back and each side match front. Then using only 6 molding lines make a cabinet door symbol. Another wall cabinet this time 3/4" thick. Place the new door and adjust separations. Convert that to a fixture. Rotate so that it will lay parallel to the floor. Pen it up and set height plane to allow it to grow. Set first wall cabinet on the floor. Center the fixture over the cabinet in both directions and adjust height.