robdyck

My first choice would be to:

-create an L-shaped molding that matches the overhang profile (you'll need 2, an inside and outside corner) I used CA-36 and resized to 8x16.

-convert that molding to a symbol (I used 'millwork')

-adjust the stretch planes (this will probably take a bit of trial and error)

-open the symbol, rotate about the y-axis to match your desired roof pitch (ie for 6:12 roof rotate negative 26.56 degrees)

-place the symbol so the inside corner aligns with the outside corner of a roof plane

-adjust the length at the eave in plan view by stretching / dragging

-adjust the length at the gable in elevation view. You'll also need to adjust the height

-copy in place and reflect about the ridge to place it opposite itself

-to get the texture/pattern improved, I think you'll need to make the symbol out of 2 pieces, and then assign and edit the gable end material separately.

-

@Cheryl_C_Crane

This will give you another point of comparison. I messed around with a few things just so you could compare the time it takes to refresh.

Might this be a bug ?

No, it's not. The beam will create a pocket with gang-studs but the wall needs to be framed after the beam is installed. The post is a separate item, and not part of the wall framing. Very simple to adjust in the wall detail. 

Keep in mind that there's no way Chief is going to be able to get the framing exactly how you like it. There's too many variables, like regional methods/requirements and framer's preferences vary from one to another.

Example, Chief will probably place a plate in the pocket below that beam, but most framers would run the gang-studs directly to the u/s of the beam.

Another example, in some regions, framers would just install gang-studs regardless of the loads on the beam, whereas in other areas, the load would be analyzed and if it exceeds the gang-stud and bottom plate bearing capacity, an appropriate column would be spec'd. Now, if a beam load is large enough to require a steel column in the wall, how is Chief supposed to accurately place the right column? There's so many different types of steel columns and availability varies regionally. 

11 hours ago, ChiefChris1 said:

Perhaps that is what confused me...because in the Chief Demo video I watched, as she talked and changed settings (lighting, exposure etc) in the camera setting with the view open, it changed live.

 

Turn on shadows. Adjust sunlight. Boom! 

On 10/31/2019 at 9:44 AM, jpdesign said:

Hello there,

 

Topo map provided by surveyor have sea elevation data for sample points in a lot and elevation for sub floor.

I can used those elevation data to create a terrain but don't know how to give the topo elevation to sub floor.

Terrain is not flat, specify "sub floor height above terrain" in "terrain specification" may not work.

 

Thanks,

Josh

 

 

It will work. The terrain still references a point. Just a very small amount of simple math. Post your plan or your topo data for more help.

3 hours ago, TDS_Drafting said:

The reason I ask is that I was taught to dimension Interior walls to the top and right and it is very irksome that chief's default is bottom and left.

I can achieve the result I want by using manual dimension, but its irksome that there is no obvious way (to me anyway) to change that default.

Oh crap. I always use the bottom and the left! That's how I preferred it when framing. Measure, then mark, then 'x'.  I dislike the idea of measuring, then marking, then backing up for the 'x'. And since we read left to right...why go backwards. There's lots of other builders here, I wonder what they prefer?

And no, no way to specify it that I know of.

A custom line style might be the only way and it would be awkward. That's the only way I can think of, other than individual letters.

It's definitely subjective but the 'pop' comes from you. Personally, I like my elevations to look 'cartoonish', just like my renderings!

I use color, so that really helps. I prefer notes and schedules for materials instead of text. I like subtle shadows, especially on the FRONT. I never use edge or pattern line defaults; always by layer and by material. Customized fonts, never 'arial' or whatever Chief's font is.

On 10/31/2019 at 11:52 AM, Rosco2017 said:

Hey, I'll take that bottle of wine when your done with it.  Great looking project!

Thanks Ross! I appreciate that.

@RenerabbittThe espresso machine is plugged in?? Now you're taking it too far!! Or...not far enough; where's the crumbs on the floor and an open bag of bread on the counter? And there should be splash marks on that window behind the sink.

Kidding of course. Nice work!

Not a perfect fix, but quick.

@DH7777

tsk, tsk, tsk. You gotta learn about layer set and saved plan views. It'll make things much easier!

Start with getting rid of the hole in your floor and specifying the room as open below.

22 minutes ago, Spectrum-Design said:

Hello,

 

I am looking to get separate layer control of two groups of the same style object.  For instance - I have two layers for Furniture - One is Furniture - Existing, One is Furniture - New.  However, both groups have their Labels on the same (default) Layer.  

 

Is it possible to change the layer that the Labels are on per individual object?

 

Thanks!

Labels, NO. Object, Yes.

10 hours ago, Michael_Gia said:

Other than the car and a few exterior light fixtures your image looks cartoonish. I’m not trying to dump on you but I don’t see the benefit here over the standard view even if it took only 3 seconds. If it’s not going to impress your customer than I’d rather use a water colour with line drawing over top otherwise I’d be ashamed to send this to a client with the tag, “here’s a realistic image of your home mam”.  
 

PBR is too much work to use as opposed to RayTrace because of the setup time which you don’t mention. 
 

I would prefer online Raytracing performed by Chief’s servers and sent back to me when complete. This is because RayTrace is easy to setup and then always produces predictable results. The drawback is only the downtime you have to sacrifice while it renders. If this could be offloaded then we could continue making money while Chief does the heavy lifting. 

Of course there's a learning curve with PBR but I really don't have any 'setup' time anymore. Almost everything just got 'dropped in'. All my settings, and scene conditions are saved either in defaults or in my library. I didn't spend even 15 minutes on this; the only things not part of the actual plan are the plants, the car, the fence. Those 3 things took less than 2 minutes to add. Interestingly enough, I find PBR more predictable that RT. If I were being paid extra for a rendering for a home, I'd use RT or outsource to someone proficient with Lumion, or Twinmotion or Thea. However, in my market, my clients don't want to spend anything extra on 3d. That leaves me with a choice: I could tell them that I can't deliver any renderings without additional fees, or I can learn how to deliver (what I think are better than acceptable) renderings for virtually no additional time and exceed their expectations.

And I'll point out that visualization is the claim, not photorealism. I'm in Alberta so photorealism would require a jacked up F350 and I haven't yet found a 3d model of a truck that truly meets my redneck expectations!

Perhaps you should post an example of an exterior RT that one could be proud of and elaborate on the camera, lighting and RT settings you use.

16 minutes ago, ChiefChris1 said:

Forgive me for my ignorance.
I have been using Chief since 1997.

What is PBR?   
Is PBR something that Chief does now in addition to raytrace?  Or do I need additional software?
I know the raytrace tool is still in Chief but I rarely use it anymore because I find it too frustrating.  
I have been thoroughly disappointed with Chief's ray-tracing since X9. 
 

Forgiveness has been granted! Physically Based Rendering is a rendering technique. It's built-in to Chief and available for most camera types.

1 hour ago, TheKitchenAbode said:

 

The degree of the color cast is relative to the suns intensity, the more intense the greater the color cast. You can try lowering the suns intensity, might have to really drop it, best done with all other lights turned off so you are only seeing the suns effect. As the interior lights and sun work together you may need to also reduce the interior lights once you get the sun at the right level.

 

Color cast can also come from other exterior materials, not just the backdrop. If the suns intensity is too high then that nice green lawn can cast a greenish color cast into the interior.

There is no terrain in that interior render. Same home, but 2 separate files for interior and exterior to help reduce file size, surface count, and lighting confusion (both mine and the computer's). Sunlight set to 500 Lumens.

1 minute ago, basketballman said:

Except for blueishness around top of windows ? that is one of better interior PBR's Ive seen ...

   I moved on to Lumion awile back and havent used Chief for rendering in quite awhile .. expensive andidote .. 

That blueness is caused by the color of my backdrop, mostly a blue sky with a few clouds. If I change it to a sunset type of backdrop for example, it would be a bit pinkish or orange. 

I'd be all over Lumion if I had paying customers! 

4 minutes ago, basketballman said:

   Do you have an interior sample ?

        That seems to be where PBR needs a lot of work ... ..

As a matter of fact I do! 

PBR exterior. Time to render: 3 seconds. This is the real advantage. Great results for almost no effort which is needed for customers who won't pay for renderings.

 Small tip / note: the 'color' of the backdrop will affect the 'tone' of the shadows and materials slightly.

12 hours ago, Designer1 said:

Any advice before I begin my first pbr vs raytrace?  Ive done many raytraces on previous versions of chief but just got to the point where Im starting my pbrs. 

 

Do most of you use brushed or polished stainless steel for appliances?  I did a quick view in pbr and noticed the polished SS seems mirror like and maybe not as realistic as the brushed?  I also noticed the sun appears to be twice as strong as in raytrace.   Just wanted to ask before heading into the water about some of these things to see what you all might recommend.

 

Thanks!

Both have pros and cons. That being said, IMO nothing outweighs the speed of PBR. Raytraces can produce great results, but getting there is very slow. All the lighting will need to be different than in a PBR which can make it confusing, and you'll need to wait a fairly long time to see the effect of any change. Then, if the change is not desirable, you'll need to repeat the waiting process. 

So, separate lighting scenes are critical for separate saved cameras.

Aonther option is to connect a short invisible wall segment using a 'room divider' wall type perpendicular to the railing. Then reverse the layer direction of one side of the railing. It should create a newel at that junction. Simply center that wall segment in the room, or dimension it for a more specific placement. The newel would be placed without the invisible wall segment, just by reversing the layer direction, but the invisible wall segment gives you a simple 'slide' to move that connection where you'd like it. Of course, your railing must be reversible!

And you are so kind!

24 minutes ago, sweetmelissa said:

I will try to explain this the best I can... I draw a room with some cubbies for bookshelves (see floor plan pic), I place some cabinets in the cubbies.  I go to the elevation and I paint the wall the color of the cabinets.  My problem is with the L side of the middle wall where it has a line going up the side of it. (see elevation pic).   That layer of the wall is still the color of the side wall it connects to... but even if I paint that layer the cabinet color, I still see the line in the wall.  Make sense? It doesn't do it on the right side for some reason.  This is just a sample plan.  The one I'm working on needs to look seamless across the entire wall... I can't have lines in weird places.  I've tried multiple things. Thanks for your help.  

Have you tried making your offending wall a 'through wall' at both its start and end?