robdyck

2 hours ago, lbuttery said:

sometimes it is acceptable to get the symbol to "look good"

 

then in the layout use a callout to point to drawings supplied by the vendor

they can be .jpg or .pdf etc

 

I did this for a Nana-wall store front system for a bar/restaurant in Buffalo

 

Lew 

I agree Lew.

Interestingly enough, our building code specifically states that windows shall be installed as per manuf. spec. and I've discussed with officials exactly what you just described. Why redo work that's already done, right?

However, some building officials in some jurisdictions seem set on make work projects. And I happen to be in one of those. There are so many different methods to achieve airtightness and the choice of material and methods can have a trickle down effect to the window install as well as other items. So it's not just windows we're detailing but all junctions that pertain to air barrier systems, weather barrier systems, thermal barrier systems and the builders rely on our code and product knowledge to ensure that the systems coordinate, are code compliant and accommodate their preferred methods.

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/e12451e5-6329-4569-b465-d76375442a63/Fireplace-Exterior-Wall-Vent

Another helpful idea is to build a template of grid lines (stacked vertically) for use in elevation and section views. Make it really clear in this template where each floor assembly is located by using a polyline with a transparent fill. Place this grid template on its own layer and copy and paste it into every saved section and elevation view for an easy visual reference.

If the window extends past the cladding, the indicators will show. In other words, if you can see the window, you can see the opening indicator. There are a few ways to get rid of them, but each way has a pro and con. If you don't like extra work, adjust the window's settings so it doesn't project beyond the cladding. This is the simplest that I know of but it may affect your realism in rendering. Depends on what matters most to you.

I made some Jeld-Wen Vinyl windows using Jedl-Wen's dwg files. The idea was to make my own symbols for more accurate display control in plan view as well as 3D. I had problems (probably due to lack of skill) when converting to a symbol to use as a window. In some jurisdictions, they are asking for accurate 3D window flashing and installation details that are project specific. Crazy, but true. This means that the glass need to be spaced correctly, inset correctly, head flashings, sill flashings, flexible flashings and so on all need to be shown. I might give the symbols another shot, although Chief has fixed one of my pet peeves from before: Exterior trim colors on windows used to show part way through to the inside no matter what setting you adjusted. That's taken care of! The picture below shows a cutaway taken from a complete window I made.

2 minutes ago, AE_Drafting said:

@robdyck

 

I've had several building departments ask for it labeled on the item in the plans rather than in the schedule. I agree it is a bit lazy on their part and redundant on mine, but if it helps clarify my scope of work I guess I understand. 

I hear you. And deal with the same kind of thing in different areas. Nice to see a solution was found. I'll be referring back to this.

Someone will show you how; but it's redundant. The schedule is there so they'll look at it. Adding more info to the label keeps trades and suppliers from referring to the schedule. Just a thought (maybe not one that's well formed).

Paul,

je moet het zelf maken. Als ik zoiets nodig heb, heb ik een polylijn gebruikt. Maak het in hoogterekening. Hier is een voorbeeld:

you'll need to make it yourself. When i've needed something like that, I've used a polyline solid. Make it in elevation view. Here's an example:

Looks good Melissa. A quick tip: when you're done with the drawing, select those point markers and turn them white and place them all the way to the back of the drawing order so they don't show up.

Or, place them on a separate layer (if you don't like the idea of them being white) and turn that layer off when you've completed your dimensions. 

You can also create dimension grid lines (maybe gray and dashed) that you dimension to and you can keep them showing but display them behind your cabinets. There's lots of different ways to clean up those point markers and get the dimension leader lines to have the correct (and constant) gapping.

Nice work though!

I was considering this until I saw the Orbea page like on your facebook page. If that's your MTB, that'd be a hurdle I couldn't overcome! 

You'll need to do much better than that to get any bites.

Melissa, would you mind posting a screenshot of your end result?

Take a section view through the cabinets with the camera origin located just behind the doors (directly on the front of the cabinet box. Send it to Layout and use the drawing order tools to place it on top of the coordinating wall elevation. Crop the layout box as necessary. Make a copy of the layer set if you want different display options for the camera that shows shelving.

Make different layer sets for exterior elevations and building cross sections. Turn off EVERYTHING that doesn't need to show in that particular drawing.

There's too much turned on in each view. Use more drawings in your layout with more refined layer sets. Turn off terrain and all landscaping and all electrical for sections for starters. It will speed things up. This takes forever to generate a section view; like 3 minutes. And like Richard says, for all projects, but especially complex ones you need a trustworthy archiving system.

You need some help with layer and view management. Awesome design, but really bad plan management for a project this complex. This needs to be cleaned up or else you'll have more troubles.

2000' down and to the left. You'll need to establish reference points to move it all back into place.

2nd floor walls aren;t gone, they've just been moved to way the heck into nowhere.

You're right, if it would auto generate it, that would be awesome!

5 minutes ago, Chrisb222 said:

The most accurate way to count drywall is to do what the installers do and walk thru your floor plan like you would walk thru a house and count the sheets on each wall and ceiling as you were installing it your self. It is very quick and easy that way once you do it a couple of times. 

Does this mean you need to take your socks off?! I agree. However, with experience one should find a correlation from floor area to wall area for the types of homes you build, for estimating only, not ordering. Let's remember the material list for wallboard would only be good for estimating because you'd order different lengths as needed per room, some 48", some 54", some mold resistant ,some tile backer etc.

13 minutes ago, Chrisb222 said:

Yes you have to manually change the attic walls which makes me wish for an Attic Wall type in defaults that can be defined with no interior finish.

You'd just end up editing more wall types. Especially when you have several exterior cladding types on one project. I make my attic walls close to the end of a job when the client is done selecting materials, but before I start completing sections. Just copy your main floor wall, rename it and remove the drywall, uncheck the insulation in the framing layer, remove the fill type from the framing layer, and adjust the framing layer to 1.5" thick, and use insulation air gap so it doesn't frame a wall where you'd use a gable end truss. 

Insulation fill isn't a pattern, it's a cad box. You'd have to manually draw a box over every wall. Better to use a separate pattern. You're on the right track to keeping it simple.

Don't do it. It doesn't belong there. But if you're going to anyhow, use a cad  insulation box .

Convert your railing to a symbol, then spin it in the "open Symbol" dbx.

It looks like your displaying the 'standard' rendering technique. Switch to 'vector view'.