joey_martin

Use a doorway and suppress the casing...or leave it and apply a surround trim.

He is talking about the individual fixtures. Back in the day...before Chief "updated" the fixtures (especially plumbing fixtures) you could use the CAD from View feature and the plumbing fixtures would simply work. Some of the new 3D fixtures will do some whacky stuff when they are converted to CAD and exploded, therefore.....leave them as blocks and change the layer association.

Hope that helps.

When you choose them, are they blocks? If so, select the check box for assigning color and type from BY BLOCK to BY LAYER and see if that helps.

This would be one of the rare instances I would turn off auto everything. You will need to manually set all those floor heights, then go to the foundation level and manually draw those walls in, then add the strip footings below those walls. or open the wall dbx and add the footings via that method. You will most likely need to manually frame the entire structure as well. Once you turn Auto something back on, the defaults will kick in and change what you have completed.

Good luck. Won't be an easy model.

If your client doesn't come into the relationship with an understanding of the difference between off the shelf and custom or semi-custom, then there isn't much of anything you can say or do. Sounds pessimistic, but it's honest. If I have to spend more than 5 minutes explaining what I can do over off the shelf, then I have no interest. Wish them luck and move on.

EDIT: And be prepared to drop your pants. They will toss around the cost savings of going off the shelf until you are doing the job for break even or worse. 

Plans are bound on the left, and flipped through from the right. Thus the orientation of reading to the right. 

Interestingly enough Richard...there was a 5.2 mag. quake in OKC this morning. Felt throughout Southern Indiana I'm sure.

He is here in Indiana. I handle most of my calcs, and for residential, we are still on the 2003 IRC with some updated energy amendments.

Michael shows the way I would handle it. Sides and angles.

I always use 2 walls.

If it were my plan, I would give them the length of each side and the interior angle that they would use to cut the mitres...I would leave the others off as that dim isn't important in the construction. Sides and angles.

Check the rooms to ensure that somewhere along the way you didn't end up with rooms OPEN TO BELOW, or that the rooms themselves, for some reason, have the framing defaults set wrong.

Turn off the Auto Filler function in the cabinet dbx

Custom countertop. In the field there would not be a cabinet back there, simply a cleat or nailer on the wall for support.

O......M.....F......G......<-------Get that one (Eye roll)

Spot on Richard. To my knowledge...limited as it may be according to some...there are no software substitutes for the actual know-how to properly design and layout the plans for a structure, regardless of size and scope. I hold true to my original answer to this post...if you know what your doing, there will be a place for you in this industry for the foreseeable future. 

Drafting something that is accurate, and drafting something that is structurally sound are two completely different things. 

It is clear, Terry, that you are very fluent in the use of acronyms and longwindedness, however...again....you have completely and utterly missed the point. 

Nothing but "Stepford" houses...all the same. Yuk. 

 

Yes. Greater Indianapolis...aka the land of beige boxes.

There are many professional designers (architects, engineers, designers, etc.) that do not prepare plans themselves. They design, and have a team of drafts-persons to prepare the plans.

Many times, and I'm speaking from first hand knowledge, that drafts-person not only is not in their office, but maybe even not in their state. 

If you know how to put together a solid set of plans, and have good/great communication skills, you have employment opportunities.....bad plan checker and over regulation aside.

You can print it directly from Chief on whatever size paper you want, and any scale you want. Just set up your layout correctly a d print to pdf, save it, email it, pick it up.

As said above, simply hit the print icon and set the printer to PDF. Set the paper size, scale, DPI....pretty easy stuff.

No. My elevations, sections, and details are always live...very little CAD work.

Once the wall breaks are placed, simply click the wall while in elevation and use the temp dims to set the footing depth. Take a couple seconds per elevation to make them right.

Mine are shown with a line for the stem wall below. The exterior dim is still the same, and if there is a need for a brick ledge, the exterior ledge line can be added. Would this work better with the basement on level 1? I don't know, and honestly I'm not willing to try since my system works well for me.

Yes. Basement and foundation plans on floor 0, separate with anno/layer sets.

Basement floor plan and foundation plan all on level 0. I have never not done it this way, but that could just be because I have never needed to do it the other way.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/83lzkad9n9zki4w/Plan%20Set%206_8_16_PROOF%20SET.pdf?dl=0