DianeP

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Posts posted by DianeP

  1. 11 hours ago, jorgearaya said:

    The roof on the picture with the parapet walls is very simple to do, here's one way to do it

    • You can add another floor and remove all the typical things from the room settings, make it the height you need, four feet or less.
    • Put a roof over the new room, but stop the gable ends at the interior gable end walls, this will leave the two gable walls free
    • Lower the entire roof baseline to the desired height, this will drop the roof and extend the end gable walls, but they will be flat top
    • Copy and paste in place the roof you created, open it and change the surface and structure to the lowest dimension possible, use air gap for material
    • Uncheck all the framing stuff, fascias, gutters, etc.
    • Select the air gap roof and raise the baseline to the desired height of the parapets (this roof should be invisible in 3D) Change the line type so it is light and hide it in a layer.
    • Pull the end gable sections of the air gap roof past the two end gable walls, this will cut the flat walls to the shape of the air gap roof and it will create any attic walls needed.
    • Add a wall on the center of the roof ridge, now, the roof will stop the wall from passing through. (This is done on the new floor you created)
    • No room definition, no locate, balloon and attic checks on wall settings.
    • Pull the main roof to butt to the sides of the new wall so it passes through.
    • Raising or lowering the air gap roof will allow you to work the parapet height.

     

     

    11 hours ago, jorgearaya said:

    The flat roof can be done with another floor, make the walls railings, no ceiling and drop the height as needed.

    (Roof planes can also be set to 0 for flat roofs)

    Complex roofs and framing can be done in layers, creating one roof plane over the next adjusting settings for each one, manipulating the framing for each roof plane to create the trellis components.

    Thanks for the great info Jorge!  With the given zigzag shape of building is this something that is able to be done where the outcome will look like the clients desired pictures?  If so, which walls would you make the gable parapet walls?  I am assuming there would have to be at least 3- 2 parallel with each other and  another perpendicular????

  2. My clients would like to have their home have a roof similar to this:  image.thumb.png.0bab7c7b60c917084928c461a4a27433.png image.thumb.png.e2c030b570446f241db2ae6183a42c2d.pngimage.thumb.png.fdd3a6a53db098a96b7a59d16e053f14.pngimage.thumb.png.2235db68ffb3c6675c5a86959efa0a21.png

     

    Problem is this house seems to be "L" shaped and theirs is extremely zigzagged to try to fit it onto a pie shaped lot and still have all the amenities they want.  Here is what theirs looks like. I will be removing the hip roof on the deck as it is supposed to be replaced with a concrete slab roof.  and the roof deck will be over the master bedroom area instead of to the front of the house.  

     

    Here is a picture of the plan and elevation I was able to come up with.... and I have attached the x11 plan.  Anyone have suggestions???       

    image.png

    image.png

    image.png

    Post_residence_expanded_x-11_expanded_flat_roof.plan

  3. Ok this is what I did in case I come back here looking for solutions:

    set rail at post to beam with newels 72" apart.  Went and put in 36" tall posts on every other post  from the deck corners, using the post to beam as my guide.  Then went back and changed the spacing to 144" apart.  Thanks all for your suggestions that got me going!!!!!

     

    image.thumb.png.3e549269ed6264569b0025c2a8ec96a6.png

  4. 2 minutes ago, tommy1 said:

    Dianne, I know a lot of people wouldn't do it the way I do but I would place the tall posts manually.

    That's a better idea than I had.  Thanks..  Still would like a wall that did this automatically so I could cut out some steps because I would have to add the columns and the beams.

     

  5. 56 minutes ago, solver said:

    ct1.thumb.png.dbf7fc082772579aa39c74e556c44b85.png

    i kept looking for it on the first floor but was looking closer to the exterior wall, stupid me!!  Thanks Eric.  Fixed the roof too.  Even had a straight line there to make sure I got it straight and didn't use it.  How stupid is that.  Me thinks I see signs of burnout..... time to go for a walk on the beach.  Thanks again!!!!

  6. I moved some walls on my shed dormer and need to adjust the roof opening, but the opening perimeter has disappeared;  opening is there but no rectangle to adjust.  Any ideas other that redoing the roof plane and the roof opening?  If this is the only way is there a way to heal the opening in the exiting roof plane?  I've attached plan in x10. 

     

    While I am at it,  what is causing the front gable roof to do this?image.thumb.png.ace60a6084bd67414d2f4ec7d488ad5e.png

    Paraskevas_residence_two_story_version_2.plan

  7. I have exported the first floor to layout and then went to the second floor and exported it to layout and it changed the first floor view to the second floor as well.  I tried it over and over again and still it changes to which ever exported view I do last.   I end up with two upstairs views or two downstairs views.  What's up with this?  This is the way I have been able to export to layout since x5.  Anyone know what it is that I need to do to fix this problem?

  8. 1 hour ago, Kbird1 said:

     

    Fill transparency is working here..... but I can't find a "Wall in the way" between the door and Vanity....i even made the Wall fill yellow to hight them , so I am missing something....

     

    image.thumb.png.e2512b9799dd170fac0f0c9e51bf723e.pngimage.thumb.png.7e2d049817902c67104548cb5f65a019.pngimage.thumb.png.8e5fad412a3d5ac22a440b1ac3cf33c8.png

    My new computer needed to have the NVIDIA driver updated.  It works now.

  9. 59 minutes ago, NRST8TRKR said:

    Diane,

    One small suggestion if I may. I would suggest a pocket door into the bathroom. I don't really like them, but in this case I think it would be a good idea.

    Have a great day,Ken

    Thanks Ken!

  10. 37 minutes ago, Kbird1 said:

     

    Fill transparency is working here..... but I can't find a "Wall in the way" between the door and Vanity....i even made the Wall fill yellow to hight them , so I am missing something....

     

    image.thumb.png.e2512b9799dd170fac0f0c9e51bf723e.pngimage.thumb.png.7e2d049817902c67104548cb5f65a019.pngimage.thumb.png.8e5fad412a3d5ac22a440b1ac3cf33c8.png

    k.  I will just try restarting my computer and see if that helps.

     

  11. On 4/4/2019 at 9:45 AM, Kbird1 said:

     

    7 1/2 Risers seem to work , I have left a few Notes in the Plan too.... eg about the linen Closet and Shower.

     

    image.thumb.png.93027569c3727d25c86713b2b09e3da2.png

     

    As for the "GAP"....... you hadn't pulled the wall to the Landing and then Shaped it to the Stairs in an Elevation View so it was missing totally...

     

    image.thumb.png.b48963c4ea0f8d6d0fac18d755408701.png

     

     

    Ahhhhhhh CRAP !  you didn't tell me you were using X10..... That's why your Signature is important ...so this plan is no good to you....

     

    image.thumb.png.8706e54a5b24a992854eca647c73c14e.png

     

    MHD_Post_residence_expanded.plan

     

     

     

    Mick,  does the wall at the stair side of the landing have to be there? It is between the door and the vanity.  Also, on x11 I can't get the transparency of the fill on the landing to adjust on my computer.  Are you able to adjust it on yours? lastly, I am tryng to make your changes in x10 since I couldn't get teh fill to change on the landing.  I can't get my wall to break.  I click on the break tool and then click on the edge of the wall where I want to break it, but the wall doesn't break into sections where it can be edited.  Have you ever run across this before and if so what is the fix?

  12. 1 hour ago, lbuttery said:

    just curious 

     

    does the headroom height have to be for the entire toilet or just where you stand in front 

    same question with the sink ?

     

    at what point can the ceiling start to slope ?

     

    Lew

    I would like to know more on this too.  I thought if I had 80" in height in front of the toilet I was good to go.  The slope would only get higher at that point.  I found this online that gives some explanation:  Kbird1 said the landing would need  2x8 or 2x10 to carry the second flight of stairs.  I have the landing at 8 1/2". Is this what I would change to 10 1/2" to show the 2x10?

    image.thumb.png.2ea670ae90c91cbfca7bd1dc59b9472d.pngimage.thumb.png.8f104f7a0c192e909adb67647c80f38d.pngimage.thumb.png.c294f7495807566ffcec24e2859ba98f.png

  13. 18 hours ago, Kbird1 said:

     

    Yep D. it is there now......

     

    Have you and you Client considered perhaps swapping the Closet and Bathrooms around , so the Bathroom is more spacious?

     

    something like this perhaps? still not ideal over Vanity but ok ...

     

    image.thumb.png.74d35e79ffea539c7d2b2b934d5ffa3a.png

     

     

    Great idea!  I will show them this option.

  14. 8 hours ago, Kbird1 said:

     

    I think it will fine with it upto the wall i see, it will cantilever that far but I don't think you have enough headroom/room in there , the Landing will need to be 2x8 or 2x10 to carry the upper staircase , and I only see 6'10" in there now...... try it 1 tread  and 1 riser less for the lower flight BUT keep the Landing the same height and the bottom of the stair in the same place , that should give you more headroom as the landing will be wider by 1 tread depth and the stair will be a little steeper too.

     

    M.

     

    15 minutes ago, DianeP said:

    So glad you mentioned this.  I think I did what you were saying to do but the stair flights have different height risers.  Okay?

    image.thumb.png.1ced478157bfe0d88694390f9d1a4cde.pngimage.thumb.png.188660e598b967c5f01a93263d61282e.png 

     

    image.png

    Oh this is wrong because it changed the height of the landing and brought it in off the wall.  How can I keep the landing at its original height and the beginning of the stair in its original spot and have it join the landing without moving it?  does the landing jog over one tread width?

     

    image.thumb.png.e41bcb334cdef742a8f68201132d72d5.pngimage.thumb.png.0774de0b4b588380fcd405cd43aead35.png

  15. 7 hours ago, Kbird1 said:

     

    I think it will fine with it upto the wall i see, it will cantilever that far but I don't think you have enough headroom/room in there , the Landing will need to be 2x8 or 2x10 to carry the upper staircase , and I only see 6'10" in there now...... try it 1 tread  and 1 riser less for the lower flight BUT keep the Landing the same height and the bottom of the stair in the same place , that should give you more headroom as the landing will be wider by 1 tread depth and the stair will be a little steeper too.

     

    M.

    So glad you mentioned this.  I think I did what you were saying to do but the stair flights have different height risers.  Okay?

    image.thumb.png.1ced478157bfe0d88694390f9d1a4cde.pngimage.thumb.png.188660e598b967c5f01a93263d61282e.png 

     

    image.png