mtldesigns

That did it..  unchecked full wall width of rails.  

Watching your Railing - Part 2, to see if it gave me the fix.  

Yes they do. I made a sample deck off to the side.  The first problem going with a larger sq. column, is it hangs off the edge of the deck, if you use the dbx.  So I made my newels 0" in size... placed the symbols of columns.  I cut the wall, and where I don't want railing is an invisible wall.  How do I get the rails to sit back?  If I can figure this out, I should be ok.. just a tedious process.  

Just now, solver said:

I made a couple of railing video

I save a lot of those vids..  going to watch them now.  Wife just gave me a hot chocolate cookie with a coffee...  

Just now, Alaskan_Son said:

but it can be pretty complicated and time consuming to get like you want it at ends of walls and at other transitions. 

I have two full decks to do this with, with a lot of corners.  This is going to take a little bit of time.

1 minute ago, Alaskan_Son said:

Use a little section of perpendicular Room Divider

This is what I thought I had to do.  

Actually was answering to both you and Michael.  Yes I did get your picture.. did you have to do it the way I mentioned, or did you have another way Eric?

Well, I did ask huh.  :-)  Was hoping for a magic button I was unaware of.  Thanks for confirming my thought process..

I know, but I need to show that "break" of no railing in between.  Railing wall, then a invisible wall back to a railing wall??  

Need advise on how to provide a double column (newel) on raised porch, besides drawing manually.  I have done the double column before, but did it manually, the difference was that house was one step off of grade, therefore no railing was required.  The house I have now will require a railing.  I tried to break the wall, thinking that would add a column, sometimes it did, but if you tried to adjust the distance, well.. rail wall has A LOT to be desired for, that's all I'm going to say.  Basically it didn't work.  I also need to keep the "beam" that chief puts in with the "post to beam" selection, per the engineer for wind load (hurricane winds)

On 11/30/2020 at 9:24 PM, ricatic said:

Michigan UP

Hey there yupers~!  HAHA.. Snow mobiling on the mitten part myself, never been over the Mac.. hard to believe.  Now I live where it doesn't snow, and I am ok with that.

All the rest of you, WOW, very impressed.. on the talent you all have above just designing houses on Chief.  Great job everyone  

23 hours ago, VisualDandD said:

You had to model a cell as if it were a school

Justin, that is a great way to show the model of the animal cell, put it perspective of what these kids know, and that is school.  

Love that pinewood car too...  

Hey Griff..

I had the same issue with the roof sheathing showing thru the shingles also, but only on one building in my neighborhood.  Just so happened to be the middle structure with the shed roof.  Some camera angles it was fine, others not so much.  The only thing I did, and I don't know if it was the correct fix, was to edit that symbol and made the shingles thicker.  It seemed to work, because it didn't do it again.  Again, don't know if this was just a coincidence or not... just throwing it out there.

Noted..  I looked on every tab of the window dbx for anything to do with the louver.. and it was on the first tab all along.  Ugh, hate asking dumb ?s when its usually right in my face.

"Louver Size"

Thanks Eric!

Working a beach contemporary design...  client wants their lanai like the picture attached.  Is there anyway to make this louver?  I know we have the window option, but those vanes are small and not as airy (if that makes sense).   

20 hours ago, Chopsaw said:

Not so sure they have fixed that yet.  Try a 0" width room divider across the end of your railing wall and nudge it in as close as 1/64" with your arrow keys while the room divider is selected and connected to the railing wall.

Thanks Chop..

I did use the room divider after your suggestion, but still gave me issues.  So I reversed the divider and put it where I needed the ICF wall to be... then extended rail wall.  Worked perfectly.. thanks for pointing me in the direction of that line.  

Did you guys know there are 100's of post in regard to railings?  

I have a 10" ICF wall (actually any wall this would apply).  Even though my main wall extends past a railing wall by 6" (and I tried 12"), as soon as I extend the rail wall, the main wall cuts back.  Where or where is the setting that tells the rail wall that it does not have permission to cut any wall back?  After all its only a railing wall...  I tried to manipulate and adjust by dragging handles, that did not work.  

8 hours ago, robdyck said:

In this type of construction

I'm always interested in how other systems are used and the why.. that was an excellent Rob!  Thank you. 

Guess I need to get out more huh...  never had to design on rock or earth that moved so much. 

1 hour ago, GeneDavis said:

move as much as 2.5 inches up or down, which the bentonite soils can do.

This blows my mind. 

Thanks Gene.  

Is this a proven method up there in Canada?  Never seen this before, esp. when I know the footing has to be pretty deep because of frost.  What keeps the joist from getting wet (besides a layer of vapor barrier), and what about the back pressure of the soil pushing against the joist (from all directions)?  I def. not schooling anyone here for sure, but I really never seen this before.. very curious on how this works and stands up to time.  

Speaking of lights... the exterior of my design I am using the warehouse style.  This is a small commercial build, and has a parapet wall/roof system.  I need the lights to be high on the exterior wall.  Originally, I had all the lights on my main floor plan model.. but to avoid clutter, I started to move all to the attic plan (next level up).  However I noticed that the exact same lights shown on the floor plan glow so much more than the ones copied to the attic plan.  Why is that? 

Not dumb if you didn't know.. shoot, I asked a dumb one myself today...  So all is cool.

So correcting the main floor heights fixed the issue?  COOL!!!

Hi BnC

The first thing I would do is to try to clear the yellow warning.  You do this by going to "all" the rooms on the main floor... and make sure the depths are all the same (ceiling below, stem wall).  When I say "all" the rooms, I mean everywhere there could be a room def., like closets, built up support columns, under stairs, etc..  Do that and let us know... then we can attack the other issue.

Hey Tanner,

I guess I'm not sure what the question is?  Are you a talking about the gap showing in the ortho view?  If so, that will fill in when you built your frame structure (the 12 5/8" dim on your dbx).  Until you build your frame, that will not show "filled" in.  IF you have built the frame, try turning on your framing layers (floor)

Learnt something today..  as many times I have created poly solids, never saw that before.  I thought it was a packman symbol..  JK

IMO, something like this I always do in AutoCad, make it a block, then bring over as a 3D symbol.

Michael, where is the revolve tool in Chief?      

50-50.. I like it better on exterior shots..