Alaskan_Son

Optionally...see attached

And there's also the drywall to account for. The ceiling height is measured from the bottom of the rafter, not from the bottom of the drywall, so you would need to add an extra 1/2" to that ceiling height...195"

195" (the correct setting, give or take) minus 192-3/8" (what the lower edge of the ceiling in your plan was actually set to) equals 2-5/8" (your discrepancy).

I personally build ceilings exactly like you have and not per Jim's method (although I'm not knocking it at all).  That's not your problem.  Your problem is that your math and settings are incorrect...

-Your ROUGH floor is at 133-3/4".  Your finished floor is 3/4" thicker or 134-1/2".

-The Outside Bottom Height of the ceiling plane I checked was set at 192-3/8" when it should be at least 194-1/2"  (134-1/2"+60")

My mistake, thus is what I was reading...... My mistake, I know Tommy knows the correct method.

Maybe you can capitalize my name from now on in lieu of mailing me chili or sand.

I assume you have tried GW's method, why do you think TB's method is better?

GW method is auto and auto corrects for any editing.

The question is why isn't the GW method the best?

They are the same method.  Tommy's suggestion just encouraged a little more effort from the OP. 

Never heard of it. I looked it up, I will cook some up, I will cook enough that if it is worthy, I will send some to you..... win or lose.

My mother is hispanic...grew up in New Mexico.  I have the best of both worlds right here in Alaska.  You can keep your chili Scott.  Just mail me some warm sand and we'll call it even : )  Because you are definitely gonna lose.

They were set by the DBX. But they do not measure according to the DBX. The dim is 2 5/8" less than what the DBX say they should be.

I don't understand this statement.  YOU have to set the heights for the custom ceiling plane.  They're just set too low.  Can you explain exactly how you set the ceilings up step by step?

Incorrect Michael, GW has the correct answer.... I'll put up some good Mexican food against some of your salmon. The loser must send the winner the spoils via fed ex.

Deal...try Tommy's version and see what happens.  I would like Chili Colorado please.

Wall Specification dbx...Roof panel...check Lower Wall Type if Split by Butting Roof

I like Tommy's version better.

Teach a man to fish...

Wasn't disputing that at all, Michael. Just a suggestion for future.

Copy that : )

Try drawing custom cl'g planes just like roofs, with cl'g baseline & lower edge line over the outside edge of the wall main layer. Then set & lock the pitch & define "Inside Bottom Hgt". This should solve your problem.

That still requires setting the ceiling plane height properly...which they aren't.

Todd, your ceiling planes were just set too low. 

A huge thing to consider is how good you are at what you do. Seems to be totally diregarded by some people. One person may only be worth $25.00 an hour depending on how fast and knowledgeable he/she is. Another guy may know a lot more, have a lot more predawn details, and may be able to get the job done 4 times as fast. So that person may well charge $125 an hour and be the better deal.

The continual cycle of upgrades to network connected software is all about security.  Vendors will throw in other changes based on marketing/functional needs, but security holes are the primary driver.

 

jon

I'm not so sure that's entirely true. I know a ton of the upgrades that at least attempt to automatically take place on my computer have nothing to do with security. And even then...the vast majority of software doesn't actually need to be connected to the Internet at all. Ironically a lot of programs ONLY make regular internet connections to look for updates (maybe even security upfates to make it safer to continue checking for updates). A ton of the updates are simply to keep up with other updates...to work better with new software A, to work better with new hardware B, to work better on new operating system C, etc.

I might also add that many programs only update automatically if you allow them to do so, and I would suggest that if you want things to stay the same for a little while, cutting out the upgrade service may not be such a bad idea.

I don't upgrade stuff all that often myself (except ESET which does so automatically) and I must say, I don't have a fraction of the issues I hear a lot of others have (needing to reboot, needing to find the latest drivers, needing to download drivers, needing to reinstall programs etc. My computer also works the same almost all the time.

It's because of this constant upgrade everything crap we have in our society. If you want it to stop, you basically have to stop upgrading stuff. One thing always leads to another…

If it ain't broke… Hey, what the heck, fix it anyway.

Edit: just to clarify, I'm not against improvement, I just don't know that it's always warranted with technology. Often times I think the cost outweighs the benefit. Sometimes it's just best to stop, live with the hardware and software you have for little while and then upgraded it all every so often. That way you deal with all the changes at once. Just my 3 cents.

Definitely don't attach the plan. That won't help.

Recessed and all Chief lights will automatically go the the "room" ceiling and no higher even if there is "no ceiling" in the room. It stops at the specified ceiling height. And if the second floor is "open to below", the lights will not go up the the visible ceiling, only the invisible ceiling.

Maybe you should post a plan with your issue.  I just checked, and recessed lights WILL offset from ceiling just fine as I mentioned in my previous post. You just have to raise them up THROUGH that first "ceiling" using a NEGATIVE number.  Not exactly intuitive, but it will get you what you want.

Adjust the height of the light fixture sir via Offset From Ceiling using a negative number.

1)  It would be helpful if you would attach the plan

2)  Select the room>Make Room Molding Polyline, and then select the molding lines around your shower (one by one), open the dbx and check "no molding on selected edge".  That's one way anyhow.

I personally don't have much of a problem zooming and in and out with the scroll wheel while moving objects, however panning around the plan is a different story.  Probably the easiest way is using hotkeys for zooming and panning.  You can use the arrow keys to pan, and the / and - keys for zooming in and out.

Dog gone you,  I was hoping you would let me of the hook.......  I can't think of anything but repeat copy.......  

 

Okay,  maybe in X7 they will have something where we can match properties.....  

 

....  if anybody can think of another purpose for the STICKY TOOL other than repeat copy,  please let us know.

Dog gone you,  I was hoping you would let me of the hook.......  I can't think of anything but repeat copy.......  

 

Okay,  maybe in X7 they will have something where we can match properties.....  

 

....  if anybody can think of another purpose for the STICKY TOOL other than repeat copy,  please let us know.

Not at my computer at that moment, but I know I've used it for something else before. I want to say it was in CAD details using the Trim command.

Roberts solution may also work, and one other option that works decently well (but not great)... 

Checking Through Wall At Start/End for the walls (in the wall structure tab).  This will likely leave one small section where one of the walls is butting into the drywall of another wall though.

Structure tab of wall you want framed through...Double wall>Furred wall

Then use the edit handle to extend the wall and it should work fine.

P.S.  Whenever possible, its good to attach the whole plan (at least as much as possible), there are often times other intricacies of the plan that may be affecting the problem, or that may be affected by the solution. 

Can you please just attach the plan?

They're actually quite easy to make from scratch.  Do you have a particular example of what you're looking for?