65Shelby

15 hours ago, JiAngelo said:

Looks good.  Just need your beams, simpson straps & ties,  and pier footings

I have some duct tape and two bottles of Gorilla Glue...  I think Im good!  

Thanks again guys.  Used the above recommendations and got pretty close.  Close enough to submit the 'idea' to Kootenai County now.

@JiAngelo and @SHCanada2

Thanks everyone.  Will try all of these mentions this weekend.

I agree with @JiAngelos third comment.  It appears the new 'room' is adopting the wall from the previous patio and somehow integrating the height of the whole house.  I did try the 'build off' method and it seems to be close but when I move and tie them back to the posts the wall goes crazy again.

@SHCanada2I am almost certain those walls are hip and gable, respectively, but will double check this weekend.  Thank you.

Mornin' guys.  Trying to draw up an addon roof to our existing patio cover.  Ive viewed a few videos and tried adding a couple rooms but my roof always ends up looking like a leanto roof on one side.
Id like it to have a gabled end with a small slope to maintain roof line and stay under the window.
What Im doing:
- Create 3 external walls off the existing posts.
- Make room "Patio"
- "Gable" roof the end of the roof

Red drawing is what Id like, but this is my end result...  I know you guys are busy, appreciate any pointers you can offer.  Thank you in afvance.
 

Ok cancel everything...  I just figured out how to do this... I may have cheated but its working... I went to the Library Browser and found a column and placed 4 of them in there.  I may not be engineered or legal but I am just trying to show potential contractors what I want done...  Here we go....

 

Thanks DB and Gene... I have the posts but lost my ceiling and cant get it back...

2 hours ago, DBCooper said:

Set your railing to use "post to ceiling" to get the columns. 

So build it as a deck?

Morning all, I found one CA article that details how to build a room with columns, but it does not appear to be working for me for some reason.  So far, I went a different route and and built a room with invisible walls...

Im trying to spec out a second patio cover to start gathering bids.



Any easy ways to get those columns to appear?  I dont mind redoing the rooms.  And lastly, if someone knows how to create a louvered wall, that would be awesome...

24 minutes ago, ericepv said:

You can start by letting Auto Roof draw it for you and the modify as needed. You can also select the walls for the garage and your front porch and mark them as 'Full Gable Wall' (in the roof tab of the DBX) or use the gable wall tool on the lower toolbar. Take a look at this article  https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00758/generating-automatic-hip-and-gable-roofs.html

Thanks Eric-

Im trying that but the way each room upstairs is setup, its like a loft so Im missing something  These red lines, show the actual room size (approximate).

I will look at your link and see if that helps.

(CA x13)
Hey guys, I havent been on here in a while and just been working on a house plan that we would like to build.  Found a house, love the layout but cant figure out how to draw the upstairs with the big sloped roof as you see...  Here is the actual house and then my attempt....  (Very rough, so no laughing)
Not sure how to build out those gable-ended loft areas.  (3 in total)

16 minutes ago, DBCooper said:

You can only move the stairs on the floor you drew them on.

 

If you have an open below room to make the stairwell opening, you need to move the railings or walls you created it with to change the shape of it.  If you have a railing with an automatic opening at the top of the stair, you will usually get the opening when you click on it but you can get the railing by using the tab key.  Another thing you can do is delete all of the railings on the upper floor and then just use the "auto stairwell" tool to generate new ones.

 

If none of this helps, then you should post the plan.

 

Thanks DB, or should I call you Dan?   
I am using the CA "Lake-Point" plan on CA13 and reconfiguring it so Im not sure where Scott built the stairs but I am guessing the 2nd or lower floor.  I will try your suggestions later tonight and let you know what I come up with.  Thank you.
 

Ok well that KINDA worked.  I cant seem to eliminate or pull back the flooring so the first step is about 14" and as you go down the stairs, you will bump your head.
How can I move or adjust that landing\flooring?
 

Actually I think I found it by moving the stairs from the lower floor, not the upper.

Seems like this should be pretty easy but when I try I its not working so I am sure I am doing something wrong.  I would like to select these stairs and move them to the right, where the top of the stairs is flush with the wall (green line).
What am I missing?  Any ideas would be helpful.
Thank you in advance.

I cant figure this one out...
I am buliding a little shack and was going to use 2"x6"x10' for my walls but keep ceiling height the same at 8ft.  Allowing about 1.5' remaining on the walls with a vaulted ceiling in the "attic" or storage area.
I've tried two methods; the 10ft studs I stated above, as well as 92 5/8' studs with a second floor and shrinking the second floor walls.  Neither work for me, they always show the ceiling at the joint of where the wall meets the roofline.  Hope these pix help...

 

Hey Brett, where are you in ID?  I have a place in CdA and live in Spokane Valley.  Im not an Architect, but can help give you some ideas if you are in my area.
Do you need this engineered also?  Will you need site survey?  (GEO tech?).

Im asking because I have been shopping all these same people and have a good list of who to use and who to stay away from.

Let me know if you are near Coeur d'Alene, ID
Jerrell

Sorry this happened to you.  Ive actually had people argue with me that my computer setup that works 100% perfect with all Tracing, Win11 and other combos is not recommended by Chief and to not use it... yet it literally works flawlessly.
They are on every board though...  Reddit, Chief, etc.  Just block, ignore and move on...
:(

Also, this thread should be moved to General.  @Dermot

Tammy also, for future reference when making changes on a draft, always choose to Save As and rename the file you are working on.  For example:
Snell_House-001.plan
Snell_House-002.plan
Snell_House-003.plan

This way if you ever make a mistake you can go back to a previous save and lose just a little bit of work, as opposed to the whole file.  Additionally, its wise to make your default SAVE area on a cloud folder like Dropbox.

This way if you accidentally delete, damage the file or get a virus the cloud account will save 15 iterations of your file.  (Depending on cloud service).  Redundancy and recovery should be of your highest importance.
 

I dont know how busy they are but Mark Kartchner at Kartchner Engineering in Spokane, WA.  Very nice guy, good company, well establishd and reputable.
I did a site survey for the IT infrastrucure and the entire office was pleasant to work with.

Engineering Consultant - Kartchner Engineering
509-922-0383

MTL 

Were you able to clean up your C: drive?

Oh and Happy Easter everyone!

JSnell

16 hours ago, mtldesigns said:

 

I'm going to.. got your message.  And I like the idea you mentioned above about keeping it all clean and simple.  I do keep my project files on the D drive, but not sure on how to keep the programs on it, as you mentioned.  Even though my OS drive is maxed, my D on the other hand has been barely touched.  Would love for Dropbox to be linked to this as well.  Is that possible?

 

@mtldesigns
Sounds good.

It's all really simple.  I have both HDS and CA13 installed on my Arch and CAD "F: drive" with zero issues.

I defaulted all my PLANs and Libraries (calibz) on my cloud "E: drive".

Ya just need to know what you're doing or you will have problems.

As for cleaning C drive, you can redirect your, desktop, pics, movies, music, downloads, etc, like Mick said... All cake, you can also run a few commands, tweak settings and adjust power consumption to clean up space, pretty simple.

Thurs is a slow day, shoot me a call 

JSnell

(Somehow only half my post went up...)
I'm sitting here laffin' tonight... Thanks Mick, needed it.  Wednesday and already been a week...
If anyone is writing only 5gbs of data a day, you need to box up your machine and send it back.  Thumbs.db, browser cache, AV active scans, system, app and other event logs written sometimes by the second, temporary and swap files, etc, etc, etc all cause writes all day... writes happen when you are sleeping if your computer is left on... Sentinel and Crystal are both good programs to look at writes; minute, hourly, monthly, lifetime etc.
We literally have a stack of bad SSDs in our lab.  Many reached their write threshold and although some still work, they are HORRIBLY slow and\or error out...

If anyones SSD lasts 76yrs, let me know, Ill buy the lunch you choose the place, Ill meet you in 2098...

LOL
JSnell

1 hour ago, Doug_N said:

 

I have installed to 2 2T SSD.  One is for the OS and everything related to CA on that drive.  Libraries, templates, everything, including project files, that are mirrored to MS One Drive. All of my project files amount to about 180GB.  So not that much really.  

The second drive is for all other programs and all data that isn't related to CA.  

 

Could I improve things by not installing CA on the OS drive?  Would it make that much difference?

I think you would see better performance with CA (and other programs) installed on the second drive.  To keep your boot drive as clean as possible really is a huge help.  Now will it be night and day... no.  But it spreads out your read\writes across multiple drives which is beneficial and we all know our SSDs are limited to a certain number of read\writes so longevity also plays into this.  (I really should have mentioned this above also.)

"The downside of SSDs with the NAND Flash based chips is that they have a limited life span by default. While normal HDDs can – in theory – last forever (in reality about 10 years max.), an SSD lifespan has a built-in “time of death.” To keep it simple: An electric effect results in the fact that data can only be written on a storage cell inside the chips between approximately 3,000 and 100,000 times during its lifetime. After that, the cells “forget” new data. Because of this fact – and to prevent certain cells from getting used all the time while others aren’t – manufacturers use wear-leveling algorithms to distribute data evenly over all cells by the controller. As with HDDs the user can check the current SSD status by using the S.M.A.R.T. analysis tool, which shows the remaining life span of an SSD."
JSnell