65Shelby

Thanks Eric- Im trying that but the way each room upstairs is setup, its like a loft so Im missing something These red lines, show the actual room size (approximate). I will look at your link and see if that helps.

(CA x13) Hey guys, I havent been on here in a while and just been working on a house plan that we would like to build. Found a house, love the layout but cant figure out how to draw the upstairs with the big sloped roof as you see... Here is the actual house and then my attempt.... (Very rough, so no laughing) Not sure how to build out those gable-ended loft areas. (3 in total)

Thanks DB, or should I call you Dan? I am using the CA "Lake-Point" plan on CA13 and reconfiguring it so Im not sure where Scott built the stairs but I am guessing the 2nd or lower floor. I will try your suggestions later tonight and let you know what I come up with. Thank you.

Ok well that KINDA worked. I cant seem to eliminate or pull back the flooring so the first step is about 14" and as you go down the stairs, you will bump your head. How can I move or adjust that landing\flooring?

Actually I think I found it by moving the stairs from the lower floor, not the upper.

Seems like this should be pretty easy but when I try I its not working so I am sure I am doing something wrong. I would like to select these stairs and move them to the right, where the top of the stairs is flush with the wall (green line). What am I missing? Any ideas would be helpful. Thank you in advance.

I cant figure this one out... I am buliding a little shack and was going to use 2"x6"x10' for my walls but keep ceiling height the same at 8ft. Allowing about 1.5' remaining on the walls with a vaulted ceiling in the "attic" or storage area. I've tried two methods; the 10ft studs I stated above, as well as 92 5/8' studs with a second floor and shrinking the second floor walls. Neither work for me, they always show the ceiling at the joint of where the wall meets the roofline. Hope these pix help...

Hey Brett, where are you in ID? I have a place in CdA and live in Spokane Valley. Im not an Architect, but can help give you some ideas if you are in my area. Do you need this engineered also? Will you need site survey? (GEO tech?). Im asking because I have been shopping all these same people and have a good list of who to use and who to stay away from. Let me know if you are near Coeur d'Alene, ID Jerrell

Sorry this happened to you. Ive actually had people argue with me that my computer setup that works 100% perfect with all Tracing, Win11 and other combos is not recommended by Chief and to not use it... yet it literally works flawlessly. They are on every board though... Reddit, Chief, etc. Just block, ignore and move on... :(

Also, this thread should be moved to General. @Dermot

Tammy also, for future reference when making changes on a draft, always choose to Save As and rename the file you are working on. For example: Snell_House-001.plan Snell_House-002.plan Snell_House-003.plan This way if you ever make a mistake you can go back to a previous save and lose just a little bit of work, as opposed to the whole file. Additionally, its wise to make your default SAVE area on a cloud folder like Dropbox. This way if you accidentally delete, damage the file or get a virus the cloud account will save 15 iterations of your file. (Depending on cloud service). Redundancy and recovery should be of your highest importance.

I dont know how busy they are but Mark Kartchner at Kartchner Engineering in Spokane, WA. Very nice guy, good company, well establishd and reputable. I did a site survey for the IT infrastrucure and the entire office was pleasant to work with. Engineering Consultant - Kartchner Engineering 509-922-0383

MTL Were you able to clean up your C: drive? Oh and Happy Easter everyone! JSnell

@mtldesigns Sounds good. It's all really simple. I have both HDS and CA13 installed on my Arch and CAD "F: drive" with zero issues. I defaulted all my PLANs and Libraries (calibz) on my cloud "E: drive". Ya just need to know what you're doing or you will have problems. As for cleaning C drive, you can redirect your, desktop, pics, movies, music, downloads, etc, like Mick said... All cake, you can also run a few commands, tweak settings and adjust power consumption to clean up space, pretty simple. Thurs is a slow day, shoot me a call JSnell

(Somehow only half my post went up...) I'm sitting here laffin' tonight... Thanks Mick, needed it. Wednesday and already been a week... If anyone is writing only 5gbs of data a day, you need to box up your machine and send it back. Thumbs.db, browser cache, AV active scans, system, app and other event logs written sometimes by the second, temporary and swap files, etc, etc, etc all cause writes all day... writes happen when you are sleeping if your computer is left on... Sentinel and Crystal are both good programs to look at writes; minute, hourly, monthly, lifetime etc. We literally have a stack of bad SSDs in our lab. Many reached their write threshold and although some still work, they are HORRIBLY slow and\or error out... If anyones SSD lasts 76yrs, let me know, Ill buy the lunch you choose the place, Ill meet you in 2098... LOL JSnell

I think you would see better performance with CA (and other programs) installed on the second drive. To keep your boot drive as clean as possible really is a huge help. Now will it be night and day... no. But it spreads out your read\writes across multiple drives which is beneficial and we all know our SSDs are limited to a certain number of read\writes so longevity also plays into this. (I really should have mentioned this above also.) "The downside of SSDs with the NAND Flash based chips is that they have a limited life span by default. While normal HDDs can – in theory – last forever (in reality about 10 years max.), an SSD lifespan has a built-in “time of death.” To keep it simple: An electric effect results in the fact that data can only be written on a storage cell inside the chips between approximately 3,000 and 100,000 times during its lifetime. After that, the cells “forget” new data. Because of this fact – and to prevent certain cells from getting used all the time while others aren’t – manufacturers use wear-leveling algorithms to distribute data evenly over all cells by the controller. As with HDDs the user can check the current SSD status by using the S.M.A.R.T. analysis tool, which shows the remaining life span of an SSD." JSnell

Lots of comments here and I am going to agree with most but differentiate on some... Your fastest hard drive should be your OS drive. You definitely want that to be NVMe. It does not however need to be huge. I would recommend getting other drives as your "storage" drives. There is zero reason to store old, archived, data on a large NVMe drive. A seconday SATA SSD should suffice for that. Whether you have a mechanical hard drive or SSD, there is always "SEEK" that has to happen. If its on old mechanical, its looking at spinning platters or an SSD looking through the different chips. If you have large drives as your OS Drive you're creating longer SEEK times. With that said you also want to install as many programs on a second hard drive for those same seek-time reasons. Let me show you my laptop setup. OS Drive is only 500GB and Im only using 181GBs, and thats with Windows 10, Windows 11 and Ubuntu OS options in multi boot. Programs Drive is where I have all my Office 365 and IT Tools installed, VMWare, Hyper V, etc. Apps and Cloud are just that... I have all my importan files and program installers on this drive, which syncs to my One Drive Arch and CAD drive is where I have Revit, Blender, Bluebeam, Chief, CAD, PlanSwift, SketchUp and other construction based software installed. (but all my data files from them are on my Apps and Cloud drive again). I just said a lot and I apologize, but what I am trying to say is. Keep your OS drive lean and have multiple drives for each task and your performance will blow away all your friends. I come from the angle of being a Systems and Network Engineer and have had decades of experience, testing and building machines for clients and customers. I admit Im not a GPU afficionado, I will leave that to Mick and others but having a fast OS Drive, another for programs and a third for long term archival storage will make a world of difference. Good luck and if you have any questions, please feel free to PM me. JSnell

Ok, really hope all goes well. Please keep warranty paperwork close. I'm reading Alder Lakes are over heating and warping. https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intel-comments-on-alder-lakes-warping-and-bending-issues-mods-void-warranty Please pay close attention (maybe even a CPU monitor) while running. This is reason #4,387 why I don't like using new; hardware, software, OS's, patches, etc as an IT Professional, until public works all bugs out. I really do hope you are ok and this is a small rare batch-run having these issues. JSnell

Did you pull this punch?

Hey Doug, maybe not, but you will want them available for your other non CA programs running simultaneously. I see you are eager to purchase as your current system is bogging down, but as I stated on another thread over a month ago, GPUs will continue to plummet, especially after the 40 series hits. 11th gen CPUs will also start their descent with 12th gen hitting market, if there is ANY way to hold on, you could get a KILLER deal. JSnell

So many variables to consider... Every person's eyesight is going to be different than the next. The older folks will want larger screens where the younger are good on a 17" laptop. 4k res, (natively) will have very small fonts, they can be adjusted in Windows and even CA, but sometimes lose 'crispness', if that's a word. You will see similar in 2k, just not as small. Also, how close are you sitting at monitor(s)? I have a client who quarters off his 50" monitor and when I work on it. I have to crane my neck up quite a bit, which I think would cause pain, even eventual long term issues. Most of my clients are running dual 27s and they seem to be ok. I'm 51 and run dual 32s at 2k with a 27incher on the side for my camera systems. I'm sure the 27 is 1080p. All are at good arms length and I can and unfortunately look at these all day with no issues to eyes or neck. Lastly, running a computer\laptop\GPU at max 4k or even 5k, when it may not be needed, over taxes your machine, runs hotter, which could shorten life of the machine and\or components. If and when needed do your walkthroughs in high rez and present them to clients on a large beautiful monitor\TV... JSnell

OK! Thank you Humble... So I, like you, didnt catch the diff between the Wall Break and the Complete Break. I also, did not have all the Toolbars active and visible, so everything @Dermot mentioned now makes sense and holy c**p, was that easy. @Renerabbitt was also very helpful with his video, but again I was missing alot of his Tools and Toolbars. So thank you everyone for your help. Lesson learned, and now I have about 50 more tools to try and learn about when I have not even figured out the previous 50... JSnell

Thanks Dermot, I tried that method and can create a break, but cant seperate them. I also am not seeing a "disconnect tool". I may have something with a combo from you and @Renerabbitt and will post if I am successful. All of this is now for knowledge as Kootenai County has said what I submitted is acceptable. JSnell

Wow, you did in 30 seconds what takes me half a day... thank you... what is that little circular thing you have with the mouse? Your interface looks much different than mine. Is that just custom modding your interface? As for the name, its Jerrell, but the 65Shelby is my car on my avatar. (not real, just a replicar) Thank you again, JSnell

@Renerabbitt I'm out at the property this weekend and don't have the best internet. Looks like Rabbit posted a video, but I can't view it yet. @Dermot I tried your option of just adding the landing, but it created it at the deck height. I looked to see where I could lower but couldn't find it. I will try you break option when I get home. Thanks again you two. JSnell