ValleyGuy

I found the sound.... my computer hooked up with my Beats .... sitting on the desk .

Hey Rene, great video. I couldn't hear any sound though. Is the lack of sound on my end?

It appears that you have one truss off of the house fouling things up. I also see that you have a ridge board. Try deleting all the roof / truss framing.... Edit > Delete Objects > pick roof framing / trusses / rafters for this floor. Manually delete any ceiling planes over the deck. Manually delete the roof planes over the deck and the associated main house single roof plane. Shift select the two side railings on the deck and open them up. These should be room defining and under the rail panel, choose 'Rail to Beam'. I don't think that it will work without this. Open the deck room and make sure that the roof over room is selected and the flat ceiling is not, which you probably already have done. Make sure Auto Roof (check Trusses box) and Auto Roof Framing is on. This should make your main roof and your covered deck roof look like my first picture above. Shift select the two roof planes on the deck and make sure that 'trusses' are selected under the general panel. In the structural panel make sure to uncheck 'Ridge' and 'Lookout'. Pull the main roof peak point to the soffit - make sure that it is properly aligned with the soffit. It won't work properly if the points aren't snapped together to make a straight line. The roof planes won't really re-build other than make a rectangle again, but it will produce the truss base and add the valley truss framing. You should see a pop up warning saying... it modifies.... Do you want to proceed? Yes you do. Follow with the rest of the above directions adding in the three new ceiling planes and Bob's your Uncle. If you pull an elevation and spilt your screen to see both, you can witness the growth of the scissor truss with each ceiling plane that you put in. If you pull a complete framing overview and see that you have a rogue truss extending through from the main house into the covered deck again, you likely have an issue that someone will need to look at your plan to solve.

Pulling the roof plane on the main house (peak point to soffit) should change the direction and create a truss base for you. Then make three ceiling planes over the deck with the centre one flat should make the scissor truss. Everything was done on auto roof and auto frame except the material and colour change at the end (to show better in the pictures). Hope this helps.

You will need to change the direction of the trusses. You will most likely also want to build a truss base over the other roof to support your valley trusses??? There are good videos in the training video library dealing with the roof, it's defaults, and the framing. You can access the videos through your dashboard > search roof. Lots of good info, check them out.

Disclaimer: I tend to dimension as one would frame.... only exterior walls with associated openings, plus interior bearing walls (in Red) on one dimension line. Then a fresh dimension line (in blue) for a fresh start when the interior framing begins. Less confusion as the bearing structure framer does not need to know (or want to add up) the interior divider wall measurements. Likewise, the interior framer does not need the measurements for the front door or a window opening when framing inside walls as that framing is already completed. Adding a 0" line to your main wall layer (exterior side) may help you achieve what you are after.

I happen to be working on one right now. Just make a pony wall with the upper wall 1.5" lower than your wall height. Mine is on the second floor so that is why my elevation of lower wall top is so high.

Those 'southern' boys have a good way .... if you don't need to deal with frost protection lol. No wise cracks about Canada, I actually on the same latitude as Old Faithful in Yellowstone. @kimberlywilson you will find many different ways to do things in Chief, all come with pros and cons. Porches are no different. I draw my "concrete slab porch" rooms using invisible room divider walls (floor elevation -2"in this case to show below the door, no floor or structure), then add posts and beams as required. Jump down to the foundation level to add in the foundation (sono tubes in this case), back to the main level to finally add in the concrete slab (at -2" from absolute to match the room). Here are a few different things offered with this method: 1) I split this exampled bi-directional porch into two porch rooms. This allows the wood soffit to change direction with no worry about the associated railing or patterned concrete mismatching. 2) The concrete slab is a separate item that can be whatever shape needed without disturbing the porch room, placed at what ever elevation height you want. If there were stone bases on the wood posts, you can easily make the concrete to fit the pillars properly. If you had patterned concrete and it was sized beyond the room, the pattern isn't interrupted. Maybe you want a different coloured and patterned border around your concrete slab, just make two (or multiple if you want) - concrete isn't always just gray. A second option is the slab does not have to be a 3D solid but could be a landscape item. This allows for terrain sloping, as slabs do in the real world. Nothing like a 3D solid slab sticking up too high above the terrain, or worse - having grass growing through one corner then having to mess with the terrain elevations. 3) Separate beams and posts can be placed on different layer lines in layer sets. More control for each view (line weights, colours, draw order, display, labels) 4) Posts can be adjusted without opening anything in elevations or 3D views - select it and adjust the top and bottom height edit handles. 4) If you want a 6x6PT post and a PVC post wrap to show on a materials list in different listings (framing vs trim), you can with separate items. 5) Foundation items will show on the foundation level.

It's greatly appreciated that CA is putting some good effort towards schedules, that's for sure. Did you ever find out how the other programs handle this total sqft issue?

@DawnSimp there is one option from Apple that you may want to consider, Nano-Texture Display. I have it on my iMac and I love how it basically eliminates almost all glare. Sunlight through house windows when at a clients home is no problem at all, even if they are sitting on an angle to the screen. Well worth the price in my humble opinion.

I just keep all of the CAD poly line boxes on my Terrain Working SPV. I just cut and paste to the upper and lower floors - then back again to the home base parked off to the side. I'm barely out of the staring blocks on macros so there isn't much depth of experience to draw from.

I exhausted everything I knew to get a total from a schedule and came up short. You are right about the different poly lines on different layers / multiple plans messing up the numbers. I scratched my head and said a few bad words until I figured that out.

It isn't from a separate schedule. The individual floor values come from CAD poly lines with a macro in the label. The total is a macro formula in a Rich Text box.

There is hope with schedules..... after a tough couple of days of trial and error, I think I have beat this thing into submission. I'm no wizard with macros, but I did scrounge enough information to make a few that I needed. I also did some creative work with the X16 schedule abilities with macros already supplied. It is mostly dynamic and only a few CAD poly lines and a couple of text schedules that need to be poked to update. Maybe this will encourage those that want to learn some basics to take the leap. It really was a good learning experience.

Gene I have asked the help desk on this subject and they could not help. Around here, the rafter bottoms are strapped out with 1x4's then the ceiling drywall is attached to the strapping. With the strapping actually being part of the ceiling layers, every one of my plans has a 3/4" void where there is an open above situation (stairs and vaults). When needed, I have just resorted to filling in the gap with a 1/2" solid pretending to be drywall.