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Posts posted by yusuf-333
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Dave, very nice work.Something like this? I used ceiling planes, and the AUTO polygon shape room tool. I also used the regular polygon for the flat ceiling in the middle.
I think mines just a bit bigger. But hey, I finally found a use for that chandelier.
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Right, with Imperial Units it's a 2" minimum width.
Thanks Joe, I will always need your help in so many ways, because you are one of the role models here, when it comes to creativity. and every one in chief talk owes you a lot. You have been teaching us all the time.
Great tip Yusuf, we could also use this method for exposed stringers.
Thank you Michael.
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CAN YOU TRY THE CURVED ONE USING YOUR METHOD? .....! But I agree the jumpiness of the stair tool. Programming the workflow solves a lot of difficulties in chief, but all uses the tools they provided.You bet Michael.
On a side note for anyone following this, the method in Yusefs video works as well, although I've tested it in a couple plans with some pretty mixed results. THE PSOLID METHOD OF ALASKA WORKS FOR ONLY STREIGHT STAIRS AND EVEN TAKES A LOT OF TIME AND EFFORT COMPARED TO THE MY ONE
It seems to be pretty jumpy. Painting results when connected to a landing can be inconsistent (and actually even changes the STRUCTURE of the narrow stairs in some cases).
IT NEEDS SOME ADVANCED TECHNIQUES TO MODEL, BUT YO CAN GET RID OF THIS SITUATION BY MAKING A SYMBOL FOR THE SIDE STRINGERSSTRINGERS AFTER MODELLING IT.
Railings are also a little jumpy and inconsistent.
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Thanks Joe, for clarifying the gist of what I was trying to teach. Thanks again for taking the time to help.In case anyone has trouble with Yusuf's video, the method he used was an extra set of narrow stairs for the stringers. You can then suppress the handrail on the main stair and make the risers/trim on the thin stair different from the risers on the main stair.
IMO, this works best with "Closed Stringers " but even with an "Open Stringer" it works very well.
One more important note is that, chief doesn't let us draw stairs having a width less than 50mm, so the last minute of the video explains how to trick it by snapping a landing with smaller width of 20mm.
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GREAT tip yusuf on doing this! Perfect.
VERY IMPRESSIVE !!!
I was thinking CAD from detail was fast, but your idea is just genius.
Thanks johnny and Dave for the appreciates.
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Stair riser materials can be made three different colours/materials as explained in the video.
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That video actually got me to thinking... That technique could potentially allow for some pretty complex railing designs too.
Michael, I bet long time ago. They don't listen, some of us here believe that chief isn't lacking. there is a saying here " bad carpenter blames his hammer ....." We have said a lot about the potential of chief.
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That was a very informative video Yusef. Thank you. That's actually the first technique I tried but it wasn't working for me for some reason. I couldn't get the second set of stairs to be any narrower than 3" I think. Anyway, I can see that it's obviously possible and I just didn't try hard enough. Nicely done
Thanks Michael, I am glad if that helped.
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Okay okay. I usually try to use qualifiers like "… that I know of..." or "...unless I'm missing something...". I guess I sort of dropped the ball this time
Anyway, looking forward to your video to see what you've come up with!
Alaska, here is the video. hope the sound is OK.
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I read your original post a couple days ago and I got to thinking about it afterward. You can't do what you're talking about automatically, but it's really not all that difficult to do manually. At around 12 minutes I think, it's a little longer than I would like, but here's a relatively quick video going over some of the limitations we have and what I think are some fairly simple solutions. It's longer than it needed to be for the particular issue you brought up Johnny, but I wanted to address a couple other scenarios while I was at it...
I just have started to think of it when I saw your post! Just pay head, i got it! i will post a video as usual. His origional request is possible. And don't ever use the word like "you can't do....." ......Chief is unpredictable amazing software.
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Rich, that is really interesting. Thanks for sharing.This definitely falls in the "Where there's a will,
there's usually a way." category, but I was able
to plumb my well model using some pipe fittings
from imported SU along with Chief's Polyline
Shapes. The model and Ray Traces were all
done completely within Chief.
BTW, Chief has a HVAC catalog available in the
3D Library you might want to check out (before
they decide it's a specialty niche and want to
charge you for it).
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Glenn, that is almost perfect. Thanks for sharing.Johnny,
It's not perfect, but you can use a Carpet Runner to simulate that situation.
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First you have to check in the AutoCAD lines that are going to import as contours have z value not the zero value which is the default. Chief imports those lines that have their z values as elevation line when you properly assign those layers as "elevation data" and the closed poly line as "terrain perimeter". Having said that I see chief is exactly importing the DWG origin at the origin of chief workspace, if you have some trouble with later please let me know so that I will explain what I think would be helpful to translate the data using the line tool. Second one is about points, Points are imported as a .txt form in chief in a number of ways and arrangements like, #,x,y,z and description as you may want it to appear after importing. This wizard has a step that would prompt to choose the point you want to import as a chief origin (0,0,0). Just trying to brief what I thought it will be helpful about terrains.
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Curt, and everyone thank you so much for the last minute help that is the kind of support and teaming that makes CA so great! I am out of time but learned and will learn more later. I been working with Yusuf whom is a great teacher, even though we are opposites sides of the worId, so a special thank you to him.... I emailed you the backed up plan but got no idea why I got an error that alot of files are missing when I backed it up to ZIP?
Chief and my homes are going to make a large debut starting tomorrow at the Wichita, KS Home Show in the US and I hope to get many sales It is my first model I am VERY pleased even if I don't get the trays and ray traces I had hope for. It has been quite a challenge.
Off to the booth to get set up
Thanks again everyone and wish me luck!
Terry, Thank you very much for the complement. I really appreciate your effort and really, you have made great achievements in a short time.
Wish you all the best and wish success with your show.
thanks again
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Terry - build your trusses after you place the tray ceiling. The trusses are designed to follow the envelope of the "attic" space. If you build your trusses before you place the tray, then you will have a problem.
I'm thinking you are right, I just tried to "raise my ceiling" per that video and it did not work. I would have to start the whole dang headache truss thang again, notta right now the only thing that will raise is my blood pressure
You don't have to worry about which one is drawn first, any time you modify the roof or ceiling, just select the trusses and check the "force truss rebuild" and accomplished. No need to redo the job as your concept of sequecial process is wrong I repeat. That is the best answer in their manual but they don't mark it here!
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Try selecting the trusses and open truss dbx then check the "force truss rebuild" check box. So this should end well if you have your envelope done correctly as you wanted. Hopefully you know how to quickly select all your trusses at a time,
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Isn't this what you are looking for? Friends also did it for you in the above posts. In addition to Joe's advise, I think this is also some thing important to look at.
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Dennis - from my playing around I don't believe the light is actually leaking through the wall, it only appears to be. From what I can deduce it is actually the result of reflected light rays concentrating in shadowed regions. These shadow regions occur where two surfaces are perpendicular to each other, such as a wall ceiling intersect, wall corners, window/door casings and furniture placed against the wall. Raytrace only assigns so many rays to compute for each type of light, under extreme or difficult lighting situations the reflected rays striking these shaded intersect regions show up as pure bright white points. As you continue to render, more passes, Raytrace tries to smooth out the transition between the bright regions and the surrounding shadowed regions. Unfortunately it can only do so much with this. When you change the sun angle or intensity you are altering how and where the light rays strike the shadow region intersects.The colour cast that can also occur is the result of the reflected light being influenced by the material it is being reflected off of. In your scene it is aggravated by the furniture and window shutter colour/material properties. Brown contains a significant RGB red component, the originating light entering the room is white, upon striking these surfaces the reflected light will be altered from white and shifted to incorporate some of the material colour properties. Now the light striking the shadow regions is not white and therefore it appears as a colour cast.
That's the best that I can deduce.
Graham
That my friend is very clever!! I appreciate how you explained the science. Please keep up the good works. Your researches can help chief to improve.
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Preference>render panel> "some where here there is a setting related to zooming to field view" I can't clearly tell it's exact words, but it contained the words "zoom" and "field" so you uncheck it there. Not around PC and never checked it in the later versions(x6&x7).not sure if its still there, but I am sure that was the place to set it in older versions.
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I think the solid subtraction solves your problem. In which ever view you create the PS is ok, but what you are missing is to change the PS to solid and then in the other view draw a solid box align it at the angle you want to get, as you finish overlapping the two, just click on your original solid and at the bottom tool bar you click the "subtract solids" and finally click the later solid. And done. hope it helps
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Make one and replicate it, using transform and replicate tool. Control your frames depth and others in skylight dbx.
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Oh Scott, stupid time difference. It was my last eye blink on bed, I posted it. I wouldn't be too late to post the plan.Hey Yusuf, can you post that plan? It looks like you did a real good job with the railings. I would like to study your plan.
Here goes chief...
CAD Block Names - make them your friends.
in Tips & Techniques
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Thanks Joe, really helpful tip.