SNestor

That looks like it could work...thanks

Perry, thanks for the info. That is exactly what I did. I was really hoping that there was a way to completely hide the transom windows in plan view...but I don't think there is. The wall is tight with doors and windows and when the transoms are also showing...well, they hide the wall "fill". It just looks messy.

There are (3) transom windows in this wall mounted above windows and doors. See the attached pictures. I really don't want to see the transom windows in my plan view...is there a way to turn these off? I put them on a unique layer...and turned the layer off...but the jambs still appear and the wall "fill" is still gone.

Your the man...thanks for the update. I saw that when you did it in the video and I said to myself..."why haven't I ever done that before..."

I have the "gable line tool" and I'm using X8...so, I don't think it's new? Or has there been some improvement?

We need to get Joey Martin to chime in on this one. I believe all the details in his plans are "live" views. I guess he cuts sections where needed and sends that view to layout using a layerset that he has set up for sections. I'm not really sure how he does it...but his plans look very good.

Yep...that does move the rail down to the subfloor...but, the carpet does not go away...so, the result is some "z" fighting. I think the easiest way is to not use a bottom rail...and use a molding polyline and make my own shoe railing. I get the look I want, it's easier to control. See attached picture. The railing on the right was lowered...but the carpet does "peek" through. The bottom rail shown on the left side was made with a few moldings attached to a molding polyline. Thanks for all the help...much appreciated!

Is it normal that a railing wall sit on top of the floor finish? Attached is a picture of a guard railing that is located on the second floor. I'm curious as to why the lowest rail (shoe) is not resting on the subfloor...but on top of the carpet. Seems odd to me. Have I goofed something up? I'm sure you will let me know if I need to attach the plan... Thanks all.

Seems to me that I should be controlling the "main layer" line weight by layer set. What happens to the line weights of the other layers...they are the same no matter what layer set you use? When setting up these weights...would it be wise to experiment to make sure section cut through walls appear correctly? Also...when sending a view to layout, do you always turn line weights on before sending the view to layout? Does this make a difference to the layout view? Thanks for all the help guys. I'm sure this is basic stuff to you guru's.

Well...now I'm completely lost. Should I be defining the line weight for walls in each specific layer set...and just ignore specifying the weight in the wall dbx?

I'm wondering how you guys determine proper line weights. Do you send to Layout with line weights "on"? Does this really matter? In the wall DBX you can set the line weights for each layer in a wall. Do these line weights become the line weight for "all views"...such as "plan view" and "section views"? I'm thinking I'd would like to have different weights for these views? Yes? Anyway...I'm experimenting with line weights and just thought I'd reach out to find out if there is a good "system" that I might follow. Thanks all.

Glad to help!

You can adjust the "fills" that auto detail places in the wall. sections so that the line is hidden. Or use a CAD BLOCK from the library. I've attached the plan again...detailed. Open the section and you will see what I did. Foundation Pony Wall.plan One more thing. You could also create a CAD DETAIL FROM VIEW. Then get the cad block...or edit however you wish. Of course it wouldn't be "live".

Is the foundation wall a "pony wall"? If so...then will you also need a "veneer" sitting on the brick ledge...such as brick or stone? This needs to be defined in the. foundation pony wall. Take a look at my attached plan...the foundation is a pony wall. Hope it helps. Foundation Pony Wall.plan

Disregard...I figured out the problem myself. I had the "platform" defined incorrectly. "Garbage in...Garbage out".

Maybe a CA guru who designs in an area of the country where basements are common can give me some insight on how to construct a foundation wall that is a pony wall...and get this wall to align properly with the wood framed wall above. I can move the wall manually...and eventually get it to line up...but it's very time consuming. Especially for a complex house where some of the walls are 2x4 with stone or brick veneer...and others are 2x6 with stone or brick veneer. There must be a simple method? I've thought that I may not have the "main layer" defined correctly...but I've messed with that a bit and without success. I've attached a simple plan that shows where the foundation is placed automatically. Foundation Pony Wall.plan

Well...I'm confused. Does the location of the baseline change depending on whether the roof framing is trusses or stick framing? Or...is the location ALWAYS the intersection of the outside surface of the wall main layer and the top surface of either the rafter or top chord of roof truss?

How would one go about creating a sidelight as shown in the pic below. I searched the catalog...didn't find anything. I tried to use a window...but, you can only reduce the glass size by about half...by increasing the width of the bottom sash. Also...you don't get the raised panel. Maybe I could use a cabinet? Hadn't thought of that until just now. If someone has a better idea let me know. Thanks

Structural changes might require some department notification...but not always. However, what about the size or location of a bulkhead or some variance of an exterior trim detail or cabinet layout. Builders here in Indy make these types of changes everyday - all day. We are still "free men" in Indiana...to some degree.

You all are making great cases for detailing the plans. Clarity is always the better. No doubt. However, Do you ever consider how much liability you may be taking on by detailing the plans? And/or...are you paid enough to take on this liability. In Indiana...a lot of builders just don't want to pay for you to take the time to detail their plans...they kind of make it up as they go. Also...just from experience. I'm not sure people working in the field actually review and use all the details you may show on the plans. I can't begin to tell you how many times I walked on to a job and a subcontractor was fabricating or installing something incorrectly. When asked if they had looked at the plans...inevitably their answer was..."we are doing it the way we always do". Arrrrrr.....no wonder my hair is gray.

Here's a simple example of using (2) roof planes...it's a bit quirky. I don't want the entire soffit sloped...unchecking the "boxed eave" selection makes the entire soffit length sloped. I just want the soffit sloped from the gable wall out to the rake. Rake Overhang Ex1.plan

Wondering how you would create a gable end like the one shown in the attached. The rake soffit is sloped until it reaches the wall...then the soffit is flat. Would I have to create (2) separate roof sections? One roof would only be about 16" wide...basically just the overhang. Then create another roof from the wall back...with a flat soffit? Thanks...

Thanks. I'll check the settings. Never had this happen...and using same template. So...I've clicked something I shouldn't have.

I'm building this roof manually...wondering why the gables are not automatically building. The roof's are raised above the plate...would that have something to do with it?

I have managed the construction of thousands of apartments with PEX. It's a fabulous product. You should not fear using it. To me it is superior to copper.