rispgiu

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Posts posted by rispgiu

  1. Just now, Alaskan_Son said:

    This is just a very basic answer and I'm not sure if I'm fully understanding your question or not, but those pony walls are typically just built to do one of 2 things...

    1. Provide mid-span support for floor joists or floor beams
    2. Support bearing walls or posts/beams above

    The pony walls as you have them don't make a whole lot of sense to me but I also don't know what the house above looks like.

     

    Thank you Michael, I am attaching the PDF file I have so far as a mock up fo the city. I put the pony walls there thinking the I Joist would need additional support, but I did not really know the criteria to those and I placed them somewhat at random. 

    Any insight would be helpful :) 

    If you think it would be helpful I could attach the plan as well. 

     

    Monte mock up .pdf

  2. 9 hours ago, country said:

    When I move to a new location, the first thing I do is find an Engineer that does residential work and book an appointment.  Some will even sit down with you for a free consultation to discuss local requirements.  If they charge you, it is money well spent.  They have given me great advice and sample drawing to get me going in the right direction.

    Another option would be talking to local foundation companies but I find the Engineers are the best.

    Thank you, thats a great suggestion. 

  3. 9 hours ago, CJSpud said:

    I am not all that knowledgeable about OR building codes and plan requirements but suspect that you may be dealing with seismic requirements for most areas on the west side of the state.  If so, a structural engineer's stamp might be required.  Should be easy to find that out.

    Thank you Curt, I was told by a few builders and city officials a stamp from an engineer is not required. I was very surprised as well and it seems that a lot of these guys are just taking all the responsibility upon themselves. 

  4. 2 minutes ago, TheKitchenAbode said:

     

    Absolutely - Even if you decided to take the risk the other issue would be if your business liability insurance would cover you. I know with mine it is very restrictive as to what activities I can be involved in. If I'm involved in something that I am not considered to be professionally designated in then they would consider that to be negligence on my part and as such I'm not covered. Even more important if you are working in a more commercial capacity such as a mass builder, when something goes wrong they are going to come at you with all guns blazing. Had such a situation back about 20 years ago, even though I was not at fault the GC filed suits against everyone who had stepped foot on the project.

     

    Thank you for your insight, it truly helps. 

  5. 2 minutes ago, TheKitchenAbode said:

     

    I think it would be advisable to still have these plans reviewed and stamped by an Engineer. Otherwise you will be assuming all liability should something go wrong.

    Thank Graham, I was considering the same thing and I appreciate you confirming it. The one advantage about the plans I am drafting and plan to build is that each house will be built about 5-7 times per neighborhood, so paying to have a peace of mind I think it is well worth it. 

  6. 6 hours ago, dscaddoo said:

    I'm guessing the pony walls you refer to are the short wall segments on the framing plan?  Here in my area,  Pennsylvania,  stem wall foundations are the norm due to our frost depth.  Typically full basements in new homes, and crawlspaces are more common for additions.  Usually rather than wall segments, a continuous beam with support columns is the  way its done around here.  The most common around here is a steel I-beam with steel pipe columns.  Engineered lumber is also very common, typically LVL's or glue lams since that's what the suppliers here stock.  Judging by the notations it looks like you plan to use I-Joists?  Not sure how it works in your area, but around here the I-joist supplier will come up with the floor framing plan.  We submit floor plans to the lumberyard, and they forward them to the engineered lumber suppliers, whose staff engineers prepare the framing plan and framing package.  They will usually determine spacing, beams needed, rim board material, and also any hardware such as joist hangers that are needed, and provide an engineer stamped framing plan for building permit submission.  

    Yes, I called them pony wall simply because they are short and because of my ignorance on this subject :) . In the next month I am moving from Texas to Oregon and everything seems to be different there. Here in Texas I would have never built a foundation on my own and anything structural I would have consulted an engineer and I would have needed to get their stamp of approval before building. I am being told that in Oregon is different. That I do not need an engineer because the city doesn't require one and that generally whoever drafts the plans drafts the foundation. It might be different once I get up there but I was trying to gain some more knowledge given I know very very little on the subject of foundations. 

     

    Thank you very much for the info you've provided. 

  7. I am working on a stem wall foundation home. I have very little experience in this, practically and book-wise. 

    For example, where to place the pony walls? 

     

    Can you guys give me any pointers? 

    Thank you! 

  8. 38 minutes ago, Chopsaw said:

    Yes I made the E6 camera Plan Display Placement as "Both Sides" and broke and staggered the line with the #3 key.  It is just behind your original E5 camera callout on the screen shot.

    thank you, really helpful

  9. 2 hours ago, Chopsaw said:

    Yes, cross section on the red line "E6"  it makes a bit of a mess of the roof but shows all the bedrooms with the kitchen if that is what you were after. 

    I am sorry, I am new at this :), I am not seeing any red lines. Is it something I need to activate? 

  10. 7 hours ago, Chopsaw said:

    The house is not the same so it won't be exact but you could break the section to get one something like this.

     

    Monte Section Plan.jpgMonte Section.jpg

    Thank you Chopsaw. You used the cross section not back clip correct? 

    For where to where did you point the camera?

  11. 32 minutes ago, dshall said:

     

    I have an anno set called MOVE P.L.  All layers are locked except for the street,  property lines,  setbacks etc.  I then select all and move to correct relation to the house.

     

    Never move house,  always move property line.  I do it all the time.

    By adopting this method, how would i go about setting coordinates?

  12. 17 minutes ago, dshall said:

     

    I have an anno set called MOVE P.L.  All layers are locked except for the street,  property lines,  setbacks etc.  I then select all and move to correct relation to the house.

     

    Never move house,  always move property line.  I do it all the time.

    Thank you, I’ll give it a try. 

  13. 8 minutes ago, RL-inc said:

    I believe Scott is referring to using the live plan view that he is creating the actual model in.

    Meaning the view he is drawing the walls,floors,roofs in

     

    Them he adds the terrain and that becomes the basis for his site plan.

     

    The other method is the cad detail we have discussed with the plan footprint.

    Either way layer sets can be used to display the desired information. 

     

     

    Try YouTube for additional videos

     

     

     

    Ok that was what I had thought. 

    When I tried to do it live, I found it very difficult to move the house in the correct location, any suggestions?

  14. 4 minutes ago, dshall said:

     

    There is the 60/40 split.  I am in the camp that keeps it live and I do not use the CAD DETAIL/DISPLAY FOOTPRINT method.

     

    I keep it live and by using layers and ref sets,  it works for me.  I went to a UGM years ago and this subject came up and there was a reason (that now escapes me) for using the live method vs cad detail method.  

     

    I was close to using the cad method,  but I had to give something up...  I wished I remembered what it was.

    Thank you for your post, when you guys say live you mean?

    Aside from the couple of videos on chief’s sites, do you have any recommendations on where I could find more info?

     

    I know I am showing my ignorance but if I don’t ask I wont learn :)

  15. 8 hours ago, Alaskan_Son said:

    CAD>Plan Footprint then select the Plan Footprint in the CAD detail, check "Display Footprint Polyline", and then give that polyline a solid fill.  You can also try unchecking Display Plan Details to see if that works better for you.  It really depends on what all you need to display.

    Thank you, that is pretty much how I did it but is there a way to control the displayed layers?

  16. 8 hours ago, RL-inc said:

    Are you drawing an actual building plan and Then creating a site plan off of it?

     

    Would recommend having a live plan as Chop mentions and then using cad detail as the site plan. Plan footprint is then located at the desired location on the site and details and notes added.

    That is correct. 

  17. 8 hours ago, RL-inc said:

    Use plan footprint tool to create the building outline in your cad detail.

     

    Then add cad as required for other components.

    so basically I need to treat this as a different process than the house plan?

  18. 1 minute ago, Chopsaw said:

    Did you draw your plot in Plan View or a Cad detail ?   Cad detail is just cad, but in plan view you can use all the terrain features and the floorplan that you have already drawn.

    I followed the several tutorials and I used the cad tool. Is there a better/different way of doing it? 

     

    First time doing this :)