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13 hours ago, solver said:

I'm with David.

 

And will suggest an all hip roof.

 

Thank you Eric, customers wanted the gables 

13 hours ago, DavidJPotter said:

This roof is quite simple as it is, what, exactly do you wish to change?

 

DJP

Hello David, I should have been more specific I suppose  

The area I don't like is above the garage, but it might be just me. 

Do any of you see a way to uncomplicated this roof and keeping all of the gables?

Thank you in advance for your help. 

dustin_07:28:18.plan

5 hours ago, warrenwest said:

Has PBR improved with regards to glass reflections since this thread was started or am I doing something wrong here? There is nothing in the upper cabinets. Glass is the standard glass out of the library. Great reflections off the back splash though 

As far as I know nothing has changed in regards to glass. I set it as a general material, adjust he transparency at your liking and I then add a bump map if I really want to get crazy with it. 

same here, I love it

Unable to open ray tracing engine - ray tracing disabled for this session.

/Volumes/External/p4sync/dev/Releases/20/chief/source/raytrace.cpp(642): Error #272032202

"Unable to open ray tracing engine - ray tracing disabled for this session."

07/17/2018 01:23:50 PM

Build: 20.3.0.54OSX

6 hours ago, KervinHomeDesign said:

I did the math the other day, and the pixel density on a 55" 4K TV would be higher than on my 32" 1080p monitor.  I see no reason that using said TV with a 4K capable video card would not produce sharp text and clean, clear lines.  That being said, probably best to bring your system to the dealer and demo the TV before you buy.

Thats a great idea. Thx 

Just now, Richard_Morrison said:

No, the keyboard should be in front of the main monitor. If you are working on your laptop, and turning your head 90 deg. to see the screen, your neck will not last long. 

I did think of that, I placed the laptop on the desk to see what it'd look like

1 minute ago, Richard_Morrison said:

Also should budget chiropractic visits for the neck strain you will experience with this arrangement.

LOL you think the TV is to high?

23 minutes ago, Renerabbitt said:

strongly encourage a sit-stand desk!

You use it? You like it?

12 minutes ago, CharlesVolz said:

I just upgraded to a Sony 50" 4k because my 43" Seiki 4k died. The larger size is great but you have to decide on your physical setup. I had the 43" on my 36" deep desk. It had a short stand and a small bezel and it worked great. You have to keep the monitor low enough not to hurt your neck from too high of a sight angle. I moved my toolbars to the bottom of the screen which helped a lot. 

 

On the 50", I moved it just off of my desk and mounted on an adjustable floor stand which works really great. I highly recommend this stand. I lowered the tv to just above the desk and do not use the shelf.

 

Thank you Charles, I should have posted the image of the office I am thinking of doing  

Thank you guys very much, you've provided me with a lot of good input. 

3 minutes ago, Richard_Morrison said:

Yes. Better than on a smaller monitor. You can zoom in and have much more of the plan still available for editing. A larger monitor makes you more efficient since you aren't zooming in and out as much.

Did you look for any specific specs?

27 minutes ago, Kbird1 said:

4k did not work for me ( 43" Vizio at Costco ( easy return)) but that was 2 years ago and perhaps Win10 had a few Issues with scaling?  personally I wear Glasses these days and found text etc was too small and with the other issues I went back to a standard 32" Monitor ( I have 2 x 32" Benq now) at 2560x1440 but 4k seems to work for many especially for Client meetings etc.

Thank you Mick, I am planning on updating my setup so I am trying to collect as much info as possible  

4 hours ago, Joe_Carrick said:

See my signature.  I use:

• The 55" 4K for anything with text (Plan, Section, Elevations, Details)
• The 30" monitor (wish I had 2) for Library, Email, Internet, etc
• The 27" Monitor for Perspectives

I would never go back to anything less.

Thank you Joe, did you have to try more than one TV to make it work? When you purchased it, were you looking for some specific details in the TV or did you just buy a 4k TV and it worked fine right off the start?

4 hours ago, Richard_Morrison said:

However, I believe you should have two monitors (one can be your old one) because your productivity increases significantly being able to have pictures of a house, say, on one monitor while you are drawing it on the other.

Thank you Richard. On your TV monitor can you see measurements and other details just fine? 

Is any one currently using a 4K TV as monitor for chief?

if so, would you recommend it?

can you see the labels and all of the other details just fine?

should I plan on spending more and buying two monitors of 27” instead of a 40” 4K?

21 hours ago, parkwest said:

I just use a span table from the I joists manufacturer to keep the spans reasonable in placing the pony walls.  The I joist supplier supplies all engineering and specs when they deliver the floor joist package.

 

 I attached a photo of a foundation plan I had sitting on my desk as an example of what works for us here in the treasure valley.

 

Make sure to leave gaps in the pony wall footings so MEP has room to crawl around down there.

 

 

Thank you for sharing this.

2 minutes ago, dscaddoo said:

The code book is such great reading material too 

Please do not reveal the ending lol 

Just now, javatom said:

If you plan to use insulation in the floor joists, you might want to use 11 7/8" joists so the insulation will fit.

thank you for your suggestion. 

3 minutes ago, dscaddoo said:

For regular dimensional lumber its is all in the IRC. There are span tables for floor joists, and also for girders (beams).  Foundations are chapter 4, and floor structure is chapter 5.  It can be viewed online for free here, just pick your state on the map and it will link you to the applicable codes to search.        

 

https://codes.iccsafe.org/public/

 

I joists and LVL's are a different story though.  Those are usually speced by the supplier or manufacturer.

 

 

Thank you David, a lot of reading in front of me

4 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

 

For your particular plan, there are basically 2 main criteria I would look at...

 

1.  The joist span.  The code requirement for joist spans is just based on deflection and is something you get from the joists manufacturer, but I typically try to keep most 9-1/2" joists down to about 14' spans or less.

 

2.  Whether or not the trusses are free spanning.  99% of the trusses we use ARE free spanning (no interior bearing locations) and if that is the case, there's no need to worry about the pony walls supporting the trusses.  If the trusses require mid span supports than you may need to locate those mony walls directly underneath some of the wall above.  In the case of your plan though, it looks like the 2 locations where I put the only walls would likely be the only place they would need to be located in order to bear the trusses and walls above anyway.

 

With regard to the spacing between walls.  It really kinda depends on the plan.  I see no reason to place breaks in that plan.  I just MIGHT frame little "doorways" (openings with headers) at a couple locations just to make ity easier to traverse the crawlspace.  Not really a necessity though. 

Thank you very much, this helps a lot. 

Is there are math applied for the distance?, a code specification? 

Just now, Alaskan_Son said:

I didn't study the plan in great deal, but if it was me, my pony walls would almost certainly look more like this...

Thank you Michael. No need to space the pony walls out?  What I mean is adding a break in between them? 

4 minutes ago, dscaddoo said:

All good advice.  Consulting with an engineer local to the area you'll be building would be money well spent for peace of mind.  Also a meeting with the building official/inspector of the town would be good as well.  Every state and town has their own regulations.  Here in PA we go by what they call the Uniform Construction Code, which is basically just state wide adoption of the ICC codes (IRC, IBC, etc.)  Currently we are going by the 2009 editions, with a few amendments.  Each municipality then may have a few of their own amendments, but it isn't usually drastically different.  I am a remodeling contractor, not an architect or design professional, so the design I do is limited to only projects I build for my customers, which are mostly finished basements, additions, kitchens and other interior alterations. We don't deal with seismic or high wind here, so there isn't anything drastic needed structurally.  The worst we have is snow loads to deal with, and each town has their design load requirements for that.  For the residential work I do typically the home owner or contractor is allowed to prepare plans, and if the design follows the prescriptive methods in the code,  then an engineer isn't needed at all. Typically  structural engineers are only needed for use of steel beams or things way outside of the norm.  Engineered lumber beams, and I joist floor and roof systems are designed by the engineers at the suppliers of those.  Roof and floor trusses is similar, that the engineers of the truss fabricator design and prepare the framing plans for those.  Commercial work is a different story.  Just about everything commercial must be designed by an architect or engineer, and structural and mechanical systems are designed by engineers of the appropriate disciplines. 

thank you for your advice.