QualicoreHomes

Thanks for explaining that. I did not know this but had wondered before where the "ground 0" would be.

Thanks for the advice! The roof is a gable roof so that sounds like a bit more work.

Does this have to be done manually to every truss? That be a bit of a pain

Oops, you guys said something about this a while ago so I should know better. My bad

I'm searching for how to make piggy back trusses and find this. Is it possible to make piggy back trusses in X12 or is there a round about way to achieve this? Thanks in advance!

Thanks for that, this will come in handy!! I still find it amazing how so many of you that have a lot of experience with the program take the time to explain and help solve our problems! I think Chief Architect should have a reward system for you people. So many points per post (that's helpful) and a golf trip to Coeur d'Alane with enough points

Thank you much for the explanation! That fixed it

Sorry was out for a while and thanks for the replies. I have attached a plan. Headers.plan

Yes I did

Hello Everyone, I don't use the framing tool too often but thought to try it. I set the header depths for 2x10 but it keeps framing 2x6 headers. I'm I missing something? What would also be really nice is if the double header would be together instead of spaced apart with a plate underneath as drawn beside but I'm not sure if that is wishful thinking.

Yes it is 0" off the Floor.

I haven't moved to X11 yet but that is the look I'm after. Thanks Solver!!

Hello, I would think that if I have the "Treat as Door" selected in the Mulled Unit Specification box that it wouldn't have casing at the bottom like a window. Is this normal? (When I separate the window and door, there is no casing at the bottom of the door) I'm looking for a more realistic looking door and sidelight with a threshold.

Thanks for the reply!! Would be nice if it was a possibility

Hello Chiefers, Do you know if there is a font (and if so, what it is called) that writes the fractions on top of each other instead of beside like in the picture? Thanks for your help!

Sorry for not replying sooner but thanks for your reply Mark! I did not find anything there that made it possible to change the door stiles and rails so instead I made a kitchen door myself and used that instead. Thanks,

Hello All, I feel like I'm asking a really simple question but I'v looked for a bit now and can't find an answer: I would like to change the door stile and rail size for some cabinets but can't find any settings for this anywhere. I don't get into the detail designing part of a kitchen much but for this particular job I need a 3-4" stile for the cabinet doors. Can someone point me in the right direction please? Thank you in advance!

This did the trick tho

I keep flipping back and forth in the manual but can't find it

Hello, I was wondering if it is possible to have the interior walls with two fills. For example my interior walls are automatically filled with the yellow standard color. I want some of the walls to be 2x6 for the plumbing pipes but then they change to the standard blue color for the 2x6 wall, but I want to keep all the interior walls the same color fill. I added a wall type called plumbing wall and made the fill also the yellow standard color but now was hoping I could also add an angle hatch to it so it shows that it is a different wall but then in a more subtle way. Is this a possibility? Or would you suggest to go away from the color fill completely and only use hatching to differentiate between walls?

Thanks for the reply, I like the live view because its always updated and when I switch the view to the plot lines option, the part of the image changes and I have to reset what the image is capturing of the section or elevation view. However that might not be a good enough reason to not make the switch to the plot line option, I guess I've used the live view option since the beginning because of lack of better knowledge. That's why information from people like yourselves is so valuable!! Much appreciated!

Hello Everyone, I seem to have some trouble getting the lines on my layout thinner. I'm using the Live View option from the Camera View Options and have set all the lines in the layer set(s) to .5 but they do not seem to change on the layout page. I can get it to work if I switch to the Plot Lines option on the Camera View Option but this is not available for the regular floor plan layout and I prefer the Live View Option for the section and elevation views also. I'm I missing a setting somewhere that this is happening? Another interesting observation I had was that I had drawn a CAD Detail From View drawing of a detail from the Section View and the CAD lines that I had drawn in that view would not change their weight on the layout even tho that particular layer had been set to .5 in that view set so I manually changed the weight of each line in that CAD detail drawing which seems a bit backwards to me. Hope I am describing it somewhat clearly but the bottom line is I want very thin lines on my printed paper (preferably in the Live View Option) and its not doing that. I have attached a sample plan to see if my settings are off. Thanks in advance for your help!! Layout Plan.plan Layout Plan.layout

Is it possible to set the automatic height of a rafter lookout so that it is automatically 1-1/2" above the rafter? I use rafter lookouts for strapping on the roof so I need to uncheck Automatic Height of the rafter lookouts and raise them manually by a 1-1/2" so they will lay on top of the rafters. Not a big deal except that as soon as I change anything about the rafter lookouts they all become horizontal which is (I think so anyways) because the Automatic Height is unchecked. So I was hoping that somewhere in the settings it would be possible that the Automatic Height would automatically be 1-1/2" higher and make this a whole lot easier.

Yes if you would be willing that would be really nice!! My oldest version on my current computer is X9, I started with X7 but I never had that installed on this computer but I assume I would still be able to if that's needed. Is that old enough?

Thanks for the advise everyone, much appreciated!! I have decided that in order to get this working properly we will have to sink the area under the deck by about 18" so this gives me about 24-30" of room to work with for decking boards, sleepers, slope and ceiling joists etc. When I have this more completed I will post a cross section of the deal and let you have the final say