Framing Questions


Recommended Posts

I attached my plan. Take a framing overview. I cannot figure out after researching, 


1. I want 1x4 fir strips as shown in my wall type definitions but not what CA is doing. I just want the 1xs attached to my vertical 2x6 studs only outside(1.5") of the rigid board insulation...I do not want upper and lower sills furred since I am trying to create a ventilation cavity/rain plane there.....Whats the best approach to put vertical furring strips on studs only, or in my case they will be resting on rigid insulation with fasteners going to studs? 


2. I don't understand why CA is making the ceiling joist/rafter tie that way. No overlap/ rafter tie to my c-joist or upper sills? 


3. I have rafters flying out to la la land by my front eave, some missing and ridges. I had to relimt the siding under that eave may have something to do with it? 


Thanks in advance for the help. 


PS: The ref manual says to wait until last to do manual framing since it will not auto update? I need it now to see where I am at on envelope cost I'm trying to get the material list to work for early. 


Link to comment
Share on other sites

To align the furring strips open the Wall Specification dbx and uncheck Structure>Framing>Stagger Multiple Framing Layers. I think you'll have to do this for each wall individually - I don't think there is a Default to control this, though I may be mistaken.


I don't think there is any automatic control over the furred sole and top plates - you'll probably have to turn off Automatic Wall Framing and manually delete them.


The flying rafters fixed themselves when I Auto-rebuilt the roof framing.


Because of the roof form CA can't build the all the ceiling joists at once so that they all align perfectly with a rafter. I was able to achieve proper alignment in some areas by using Framing Reference Markers then building the framing for each roof plane individually, but other areas remained messed up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the help Robert. I been reading and watching videos on framing to gain a better understanding of what you posted. I have the fur strips figured out and the flying rafters. 


I'm still confused on the gap between my ceiling joist and raters. Can you explain how you used Framing Ref Markers? Is this an issue with CA I need to submit a ticket for? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, thanks Perry I'll try it,


I have another question for anyone. I read in the ref manual it is best to wait until all walls including interior, doors, windows, floors, roof planes, are done or somewhat solid before finalizing framing? Interior walls, some are driven by cabinets, bathtubs and sinks, etc. I have not fine tuned yet. So, if I do trusses now and learn how which I not done before, and have to move an interior wall or window, etc, after that means I have to manually frame or fix my trusses that were affected? Is that going to be difficult or do I really have to make sure nothing is going to change before I start my trusses? In other words, put in all the cabinets, bath tubs and showers, etc, now?


I was hoping to get a cost of my envelop and not clutter the material list with everything quite yet but perhaps that is a bad approach? I need to finish the model deal with material list later or do manual take offs if it does not make sense? It doesn't make a whole lot of sense now ;)


This may be a little over my head for a first truss job anyone have  suggestions as to where to start or how I'd appreciate some guidance. I have 22 pages CH 17 out of the ref manual on trusses to read first and perhaps some CA late night vids eating popcorn. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most of the time trusses are not effected by interior walls, windows ,or doors, ceiling changes and roof changes will mean you have to re-do the trusses. so get your roof and ceiling in order first before putting trusses in. also make sure your exterior walls are set. If there is changes to that stuff, it's very easy to repair the trusses if you have to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I always build the framing first, then add the trusses. When you re-build walls floor and ceilings. the conventional framing (the automatic ceil and rafters) will go away and the trusses will remain in those areas. A lot of times I have both types in one plan, works great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I've had some limited success creating my first roof trusses but have three issues I need some help with.


1. I did as the ref manual said and built the roof planes for the outer upper chord def using "trusses no birdsmouth" and I gave it a raise off plate of 16" shown in the pic below to get an energy heal cantilever truss to work but when I build the wall framing CA is not building the lower chord to sit on my top plates? I created the ceiling planes with a pitch of 4, not sure how to lower the base so it sits on my upper plate?  




2. CA let me put a truss at the end of front garage hip but is not using it since there is not enough room between the ceiling and roof plane so I moved the end truss def to the next one rear but it is still not auto building my lookouts and end gables over hangs? 




3. The gabled upper roof forward end truss builds a wall but the siding is not auto building? 







Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I may have found my issue for #1 above. I set "lock outside bottom height" to my wall height although it will not let me lock it. When I try and go back in CA keeps "lock inside bottom height". That dropped my lower vaulted ceiling plane base to my top plate ceiling height of 124 1/2 and it seems to be staying locked. Now my walls are not following the height setting I have set of 124 1/2. My ceiling planes are over my walls and I have checked "stop at ceiling above" for platform intersections. I have no idea where the 11' 5" is coming from? S/b 10' 4 1/2" ? 








When I build roof planes at a raised off plate value of 6 3/4 for a end truss with a reduced gable it builds a proper cantilever. 6 3/4 won't work for the field trusses that need 8 1/2 high roof plans. So what do I do? See pics. 







#2 above cleaned up when I build the trusses starting at the other and multi-copy toward the hip. 



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in

Sign In Now

  • Member Statistics

    Total Members
    Most Online
    Newest Member