stevenyhof

Brick ledge pulls back from corner

Recommended Posts

I found a video on brick ledges using pony walls. I do see how if the main floor wall above is a brick wall type that it will auto create the ledge in the foundation wall - very nice! However, we seldom use brick any more, but I use "brick" ledges all the time for porches, moving the concrete out 4" to save room for the stairs, etc. But this example (see images) is used all the time here in West Michigan when a garage wall returns back into the main house.

 

I have refined and made a number of new walls as my defaults and feeling pretty good about Chief (been messing with it for about a week getting my defaults in place, my main plan and layout files all set up), but got stuck on this ledge. As you can see the concrete forms (real life) are set up to go straight across the T of the wall, and then they use a panel to create the ledge - which is later covered up by the grade. But I have drawn my foundations this way for 30+ years and that is how foundation are poured here in West Michigan. (I'm going on a bit to avoid those big hearted folks that may suggest I change how real life works because software can't do what we want.)

 

You can see I almost have it. I am just wondering if there is some setting that turns off the relationship that is causing it to pull back from the corner when I release my mouse.

I want to thank all of you who have been so willing to help offer advise and direction. This forum limits the number of replies and comments I can post - I guess until I become a bigger dog. So if I do not respond, it is because I have maxed out my replies and will respond the next day. :)

~Thank you,

Steve

1.jpg

2.jpg

2b.jpg

3.jpg

5.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just had a thought - I wonder if I could make a wall type that shows the siding to match the rest of the walls, but have a brick layer that is invisible??? I may look into that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, stevenyhof said:

However, we seldom use brick any more, but I use "brick" ledges all the time for porches, moving the concrete out 4" to save room for the stairs, etc. But this example (see images) is used all the time here in West Michigan when a garage wall returns back into the main house.

 

This is mostly a curiosity question. What's the purpose of the ledge?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's kind of working! I'm going to keep messing with it this way because then the ledge is auto generated and looks good in the sections also. I may still use a pony wall and some hidden voodoo

working.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This? Make the wall on the right a pony wall with the break matching the left wall.

 

ct1.thumb.png.3c3ef6e587be244a36b72cf129ac4e8a.png

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, solver said:

 

This is mostly a curiosity question. What's the purpose of the ledge?

The drawings I uploaded show why its there. It costs less for the foundation guys when forming their walls, and often doubles as a ledge to support conc. pads. A 4" wall is not allowed, but a 6" wall would be. That would create a 2.5" jog in the garage - not a big deal - It is just how it is done around here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, solver said:

This? Make the wall on the right a pony wall with the break matching the left wall.

 

ct1.thumb.png.3c3ef6e587be244a36b72cf129ac4e8a.png

That's beautiful!! I'm still learning, so I do not fully understand, "break matching the left wall" - sorry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When a pony wall connects with a non pony wall, Chief does a better job of joining them if they are both pony walls.

 

The wall on the right is a pony wall with the same upper and lower wall type, and the break matches the wall on the left.

 

 

ct1.png

  • Upvote 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

AH! Very smart! Makes perfect sense!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is looking better, but I have tried different options and entered different heights and nothing changes to the flush pony wall. I am setting up pony walls in Foundation wall types. I am doing some reading in help for pony walls and maybe I should be using a pony wall type??? Anyway, showing my progress. Eric, maybe you can show me your dialog box - I may be missing a setting - I'm sure I am missing some understanding still wrapping my head around this. Thank you

better.jpg

better2.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I dragged the top down and it fixed it - I like that it worked, but I'm setting things up - I don't like that I don't know how.

You can see the Elevation of Lower Wall Top and Height Off Floor are different. When I was setting up the defaults, this number was the same for both.

 

settings.jpg

better2.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You're making it much too complicated. Just select your brick ledge wall and make it a 'through wall' at that corner.

image.thumb.png.dc8cfad59b484fa1acfeffc3f788ce03.png

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I felt I was making things complicated - but learning a lot! I will try that. Thank you

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In my region, the framing at that corner would follow the exterior of the foundation. And yes, that would leave a small offset inside the room which I assume is a garage. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
58 minutes ago, robdyck said:

In my region, the framing at that corner would follow the exterior of the foundation. And yes, that would leave a small offset inside the room which I assume is a garage. 

That would make things easier for sure. And if the client wanted a straight wall, they could always fir it out. I grew up building homes, and I had always seen it with the step in the wall.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, stevenyhof said:

I dragged the top down and it fixed it - I like that it worked, but I'm setting things up - I don't like that I don't know how.

You can see the Elevation of Lower Wall Top and Height Off Floor are different. When I was setting up the defaults, this number was the same for both.

 

settings.jpg

better2.jpg

Nothing to really add to your question here, but just a general bit of advice that alot of the power users helped me with when I first started (I stalked this forum a long time before I joined).  99% of the time there is no need to manually drag a wall, and 90% of the time when you do there are adverse affects that you will fight with afterwards.  Once you understand how Chief builds things as rooms and boxes that are contained by lower boxes and roofs/other boxes above then you will be able to start figuring out things that happen and how to adjust the settings to model what it is you want.

 

But I can tell you have the bug as Chief is truly addictive! :)  Looking good so far! 

  • Like 1
  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you Ryan! I agree totally about dragging. Makes me nervous of what I will run into next and forget I did this days before. But yes, I am not getting to my other work and have been up long hours. The more I set up my defaults and template (and mess with a test plan) the more excited I am about Chief!

I was just messing with the dimensions, and I dimension from the out in - meaning, my first line is over all, my next line in are the main jogs, the next line are to interior walls and my last line is to openings. Chief does not always do over all on jogs that are too far away (unless you increase the "reach") and the second line in goes to interior walls as well as main wall jogs, so the poured wall guys and framers would need to add up those dimensions to learn the main widths. I have learned how to use auto dimensions and then add my own to pull off what I want, but it can be done and a small price to pay to having a program auto generate elevations, etc. I think in the end I will not spend more time drawing with Chief.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, stevenyhof said:

That would make things easier for sure. And if the client wanted a straight wall, they could always fir it out. I grew up building homes, and I had always seen it with the step in the wall.

For sure. I'm surprised that anyone would actually ask the foundation crew to form an inset like that, but we all know that regional and builder idiosyncrasies are resistant to change of any kind.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now

  • Member Statistics

    28448
    Total Members
    9156
    Most Online
    Burtonmadness
    Newest Member
    Burtonmadness
    Joined