Brick ledge pulls back from corner


stevenyhof
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I found a video on brick ledges using pony walls. I do see how if the main floor wall above is a brick wall type that it will auto create the ledge in the foundation wall - very nice! However, we seldom use brick any more, but I use "brick" ledges all the time for porches, moving the concrete out 4" to save room for the stairs, etc. But this example (see images) is used all the time here in West Michigan when a garage wall returns back into the main house.

 

I have refined and made a number of new walls as my defaults and feeling pretty good about Chief (been messing with it for about a week getting my defaults in place, my main plan and layout files all set up), but got stuck on this ledge. As you can see the concrete forms (real life) are set up to go straight across the T of the wall, and then they use a panel to create the ledge - which is later covered up by the grade. But I have drawn my foundations this way for 30+ years and that is how foundation are poured here in West Michigan. (I'm going on a bit to avoid those big hearted folks that may suggest I change how real life works because software can't do what we want.)

 

You can see I almost have it. I am just wondering if there is some setting that turns off the relationship that is causing it to pull back from the corner when I release my mouse.

I want to thank all of you who have been so willing to help offer advise and direction. This forum limits the number of replies and comments I can post - I guess until I become a bigger dog. So if I do not respond, it is because I have maxed out my replies and will respond the next day. :)

~Thank you,

Steve

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6 minutes ago, solver said:

 

This is mostly a curiosity question. What's the purpose of the ledge?

The drawings I uploaded show why its there. It costs less for the foundation guys when forming their walls, and often doubles as a ledge to support conc. pads. A 4" wall is not allowed, but a 6" wall would be. That would create a 2.5" jog in the garage - not a big deal - It is just how it is done around here.

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1 minute ago, solver said:

This? Make the wall on the right a pony wall with the break matching the left wall.

 

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That's beautiful!! I'm still learning, so I do not fully understand, "break matching the left wall" - sorry

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It is looking better, but I have tried different options and entered different heights and nothing changes to the flush pony wall. I am setting up pony walls in Foundation wall types. I am doing some reading in help for pony walls and maybe I should be using a pony wall type??? Anyway, showing my progress. Eric, maybe you can show me your dialog box - I may be missing a setting - I'm sure I am missing some understanding still wrapping my head around this. Thank you

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I dragged the top down and it fixed it - I like that it worked, but I'm setting things up - I don't like that I don't know how.

You can see the Elevation of Lower Wall Top and Height Off Floor are different. When I was setting up the defaults, this number was the same for both.

 

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58 minutes ago, robdyck said:

In my region, the framing at that corner would follow the exterior of the foundation. And yes, that would leave a small offset inside the room which I assume is a garage. 

That would make things easier for sure. And if the client wanted a straight wall, they could always fir it out. I grew up building homes, and I had always seen it with the step in the wall.

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2 hours ago, stevenyhof said:

I dragged the top down and it fixed it - I like that it worked, but I'm setting things up - I don't like that I don't know how.

You can see the Elevation of Lower Wall Top and Height Off Floor are different. When I was setting up the defaults, this number was the same for both.

 

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Nothing to really add to your question here, but just a general bit of advice that alot of the power users helped me with when I first started (I stalked this forum a long time before I joined).  99% of the time there is no need to manually drag a wall, and 90% of the time when you do there are adverse affects that you will fight with afterwards.  Once you understand how Chief builds things as rooms and boxes that are contained by lower boxes and roofs/other boxes above then you will be able to start figuring out things that happen and how to adjust the settings to model what it is you want.

 

But I can tell you have the bug as Chief is truly addictive! :)  Looking good so far! 

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Thank you Ryan! I agree totally about dragging. Makes me nervous of what I will run into next and forget I did this days before. But yes, I am not getting to my other work and have been up long hours. The more I set up my defaults and template (and mess with a test plan) the more excited I am about Chief!

I was just messing with the dimensions, and I dimension from the out in - meaning, my first line is over all, my next line in are the main jogs, the next line are to interior walls and my last line is to openings. Chief does not always do over all on jogs that are too far away (unless you increase the "reach") and the second line in goes to interior walls as well as main wall jogs, so the poured wall guys and framers would need to add up those dimensions to learn the main widths. I have learned how to use auto dimensions and then add my own to pull off what I want, but it can be done and a small price to pay to having a program auto generate elevations, etc. I think in the end I will not spend more time drawing with Chief.

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1 hour ago, stevenyhof said:

That would make things easier for sure. And if the client wanted a straight wall, they could always fir it out. I grew up building homes, and I had always seen it with the step in the wall.

For sure. I'm surprised that anyone would actually ask the foundation crew to form an inset like that, but we all know that regional and builder idiosyncrasies are resistant to change of any kind.

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